Check this post for some info:

Brake Flush Info

I haven't heard of anyone doing it on their own on the Touareg.

Matt

 

Matt,I used the Phoenix injector(which is a hand operated vacuum pump system) to bleed the brakes and then bled them using the old fashioned 2 man method
,I used Wagner Dot 501 fluid, Marty

 

I stand corrected.

Good to know. Thanks Marty!

Matt

 

Thanks for the info. I had searched the forum and read that post already.

Does anyone with a Bently manual have the hydraulic diagram for the ABS module or the entire brake system? I haven't sprung for the manuals yet.
My specific question is to what portions of the ABS module lock the fluid?

The only solution I can think of is that the dealer has a way to actuate the valves in the module when they flush the system. Something tells me that the dealer isn’t that sophisticated, considering they never removed the 2nd drain plug in my first 4 oil changes.

 

When I bled the brakes I didn't release any valves,just used the old fashioned brake bleed system,Marty

20,000 mile DIY Service
20,200 miles 2005 V6 fully loaded

ecided to take the Touareg to work on Friday,after about a half hour of loading tools and filter,oils,brake fluid,I drove to one of my accounts who has a state of the art garage in Long Island city,New York.We did a major renovation about a year ago,he has 29 lifts,spray room etc for his taxi fleet.I am the only private car allowed.We were installing a PTZ camera on the outside to replace one of the 23 fixed cameras. I used the oil evacuation system with several different pickups to drain the power steering reservoir and the master cylinder.Refilled power steering reservoir with Pentosin 11S ($18.95 per litre,used 1/2)Master cylinder with Wagner Dot 5.1 brake fluid,Raised the car,removed bottom plastic shield,drained,removed,replaced oil filter,torqued drain plug and filter housing.Drained engine oil and reinstalled drain plug,reinstall lower shield.Filled engine with ELF 5W-40 ($29.95 for 5 liters,$7.50 per quart) used 6.3 liters total.Used VW/AUDI oil filter.Raised car and removed wheels,put wheels in proper rotate position and cleaned the inside area of all rims.I used a one man brake bleeder,Phoenix Injector to bleed calipers in sequence,refilling master several times,installed wheels and moved car,pedal was good but I redid the bleeding the old fashioned way,reinstalled wheels,torqued lugs to 118 ft-lbs.Checked and topped off all fluids.Next week I will make a dealer appt for all of the upgrades and some warranty issues.Marty

 

Volkswagen > Touareg > 2004-2007
Brake System
47 - Brakes - Hydraulic components
Bleeding braking system

• Description covers bleeding of brake system using the Brake Charger/bleeder Unit VAS 5234 and Brake Pedal Actuator VAG 1869/2 .

• Note:

• Bleeding the braking system on vehicles with ABS is carried out as for vehicles with conventional braking systems.

• Only use new brake fluid conforming to US-Norm FMVSS 116 DOT 4.

• Genuine VW/Audi brake fluid conforms to this specification.

• Brake fluid is poisonous. Due to its caustic nature, it must also never be brought into contact with paint.

• Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture from the surrounding air, and must therefore be stored in air tight containers.

• Rinse off spillages, by using plenty of water.

• There must be a positive pressure of 2 bar to bleed the hydraulic unit.

 

Subsequent bleeding

• A second mechanic is required to assist:

• Depress brake pedal forcefully and hold.

• Open bleeder valve at brake caliper.

• Press brake pedal down until the pedal stops.

• Close bleeder valve with pedal depressed.

• Release brake pedal slowly.

• This bleeding procedure must be performed 5 times per brake caliper.

 

• Bleeding sequence:

• 1 - Right rear brake caliper

• 2 - Left rear brake caliper

• 3 - Right front brake caliper

• 4- Front left brake caliper

• A road test must be performed after bleeding. During this, at least one ABS assisted stop must be performed

 

Bleed the inboard half first, then the outboard half of the caliper,Marty

 

Any idea why?

I see on the Porsche forums with dual brembos they said outside and then inside?

 

Thanks for the info. I will give it a try as soon as my new mityvac shows up.

 

when do i need to service my brakes

I'm approaching 40K miles on my 2005 Treg. When do I need to service my brakes, and how much will it run me? thanks.

 

dealer charges about $100. It is one of the few things I have the dealwer do.

 

I use the Black Label European Bleeder for my Touareg and my Porsche, it is very easy to use and it can be done in an hour or less.

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I use the Black Label European Bleeder for my Touareg and my Porsche, it is very easy to use and it can be done in an hour or less.

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I've had one of those for a few years now, just used it last night on a Mazda Tribute clutch system, different adapter though. I originally bought it to bleed out my 1982 Volvo 240 after replacing all the brake parts in front. For anyone who has worked on a 240 brake system, you know!!! 3 bleeders per front caliper with two hoses/lines on each caliper...an air bubble nightmare!!! Best brake bleeding tool I've ever used. I tried those suction ones and sometimes its hard to pull fluid through ABS systems.

 

I use the motive bleeder regularly at work and it is a very nice unit. i work at a Volvo dealership for 7 years ( im using a friends name to research the work im about to do to his treg) and it is the only unit that makes it very easy. My question is does the VW and Volvo use the same cap for the master. Volvo uses Dot 4 so thats not a problem. If i cant use the same cap i have a vacuum bleeder that does the trick. Whoever posted about Volvo 240 front brakes being a bleeding nightmare is dead on. There are so many bleeders and lines that it takes FOREVER to get any air out. there is a hydraulic valve that has to be bled to set it properly or you will get a brake warning light. I love working on the swede cars. They engineering is WAY better than Jap or USA cars. Thanks.
-Steve for DR BOB

 

I think that they use the same one, there is a European Cap (red) that has fit all my cars so far. The Sweedes do things different, so you never know

 

yeah they can be a pain. im goin to check the car out in a little bit. i'll see if the cap looks the same. i double team the brake flush and use the pressure bleeder on the master but then hit each wheel with the vacuum bleeder to get the fluid movin fast and stir up any dirt so it gets flushed out. people dont realize how important clean brake fluid is. if it has moisture in it it will boil and introduce bubbles to the lines. soft pedal sucks. That only happens under severe heat but the more moisture in the lines the lower the temp it happens. it also corrodes the brake parts from the inside. Then you have rust pits and flakes in there also. Once again the more moisture the faster it happens but you dont want any. Flush your brakes. If the factory gives a spec on time it is important to do it. Your arent saving money by not maintaining your car. You can either pay for the flushes or buy the parts and pay for the flush when they install them. Your call.

 

Serious troubles after flush:

-I flush all the brake fluid to my system leaving empty and leaving air go inside (yes, now I know it isn't the proper way)
-I fill fluid and bleed (only open external bleed port each wheel) with "2 person method" several times (more than 3 Litres used)
-Now, I don't have pressure in the pedal and this travel to the end. If a pump quickly the pedal goes hard, and keep the pressure and force several time, but as soon I release the pedal and I wait 3-4 seconds, the pedal go soft and deep again.
I don't feel is air in the system. Feels more like a by-pass in the system.

Any idea? ABS troubleshooting? Any electronic procedure?

I'm using Dot4 Low Viscosity Brake Fluid http://amzn.com/B0070Y9CE4
Maybe I need use the regular viscosity?

Even I change the brake master cylinder pre-bleeding after mount.

Please Help!

 

VCDS has a function that cycles the ABS pump. I do not know if this is sufficient because it does not cycle the solenoids that I know of. The alternative is to have the truck transported (flatbed) to the dealer and let them flush out the ABS.

I do not think the DOT 4 LV is the reason. You can try regular DOT 4. I use Valvoline DOT 3/4.

Serious troubles after flush:

-I flush all the brake fluid to my system leaving empty and leaving air go inside (yes, now I know it isn't the proper way)
-I fill fluid and bleed (only open external bleed port each wheel) with "2 person method" several times (more than 3 Litres used)
-Now, I don't have pressure in the pedal and this travel to the end. If a pump quickly the pedal goes hard, and keep the pressure and force several time, but as soon I release the pedal and I wait 3-4 seconds, the pedal go soft and deep again.
I don't feel is air in the system. Feels more like a by-pass in the system.

Any idea? ABS troubleshooting? Any electronic procedure?

I'm using Dot4 Low Viscosity Brake Fluid Amazon.com: Pentosin DOT 4 LV Brake Fluid (1 Liter): Automotive
Maybe I need use the regular viscosity?

Even I change the brake master cylinder pre-bleeding after mount.

Please Help!

 

this is a almost 6 years old thread, i think it will be better to start new one and my advise is to always try and stick with an OEM fluids

 

you need to bleed the abs unit with VCDS

 

do NOT use silicone based brake fluid (I think dot 5 is silicone based)

 

complete bleeding guide for Touareg

 

I had the rotors brakes and control arms replaced and had the front aligned and now the esp light stays on any suggestions? On what it could be? I had to leave at the shop yet another day they don't seem to know

 

I know on Audis you need to go to a parking lot and do a few tight radius turns in each direction to reset the esp light. I wouldn't rule that out on the Touareg.

 

the one man method: