You've cropped out your scan so it doesn't actually show the codes for that controller!

 

Sorry I have attached the scan again

 

Ok, so that says you have flaky power being supplied when the ignition is on. Did you check wiring diagrams to see if any relays are on the circuit? Did you probe or test for power at the plug/controller connection?

 

No I have not. When I had the crank problem it led me down the path of the Kessy module given I have door handle issues as well. The buzzing from the kessy module made me stop looking anywhere else. Would like it to be something else. I have opened the kessy and nothing burnt to my eye. Happy to look further if you think its required. Where should I start?

 

I suggest you look at wiring diagrams to see what's on that circuit. The error suggests a short in the supply. If there's a relay involved (should be since its key on), check that. If the relay is ok, check wiring with a meter, or check pins at plug for power/ground. Regardless, wiring diagram is required.

 

I do have some PDFs manuals. I will go looking for a diagram. What is making you look away from the Kessy given the issues? I thought the buzzing was a give away the kessy has a problem.

 

Your code is suggesting a short... It doesn't say anything about communication/module/coding etc. I simply like starting off with cheap components that can be easily checked with a multimeter, etc before blaming expensive modules.

1 Fault Found:
00185 - Control Circuit; Relay for Supply Voltage Terminal 15
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

 

I am all for your thinking. The irregularity of the fault is the pain. Most times its OK. Last trip I was caught out for 3 hours trying to get it to crank. When it finally did I drove straight home and cancelled my trip. Car has not moved since. Absolutely love the car but this is testing me.
I have found some documentation regarding relays and terminal 15. I will pull the seat and go looking.

 

Kessy shouldn't prevent cranking.... It should only step in immediately after it fires and shut things down.... You may have other issues to dig into on top of the fault we are looking at.

 

Can you explain the kessy and cranking to me? This is my problem. I can live with the door handle problems.
I use the key to start. Insert key, foot on brake, twist key to crank position and release. Car then cranks for long enough to start. Problem now is the crank is only a very short time and not enough cranking to start. I thought I will just hold the key in the crank until it starts but this does not work. Still only cranks a very short time and you are still holding the key in the crank position. What tells it about the cranking duration? I assume there is something thats tells it its running so it stops cranking? An I chasing a starter motor problem. Can anyone tell me if they hold the key will it continue to crank?Car is 2008 R50

 

Just looking at basics again. I see a couple of issues with low battery volts. How good is the battery? Can you charge it say overnight and try to start afterwards? I think the kessy is a separate issue, but a poor battery produces weird effects in these cars

 

Batterys are a few years old. I have been having some discharge issues which is why I thought Kessy. Car had been dropping .2 volt in about 15 hours. which is too much. Will try tonight with the Kessy unplugged. Maybe I need to buy 2 new batterys. I had been thinking battery or starter problem. my problem there is sometimes it cranks and sometimes not. I would have thought a bad battery will be all the time?

 

Your battery may be starting to fail and maybe more susceptible to intermittently not being able to complete the start, depending on how much charge it received on the last drive cycle, temperature, and the extent of parasitic draw. I'd try giving it a good charge, or both of them if you can. Then go from there. Just my thoughts

 

Battery issue is my current thought. I disconnect the rear battery and the fault was as described. will not crank long enough to start. Swapped the rear battery to the front with no rear battery. starts fine. so from this the front battery is no good. This goes against the rear battery is the start battery. Car starts with no rear battery. I think it uses both battery's to start if both are available. if no rear it will still start off the front. Still thinking I have a drain issue. maybe kessy? I will let the car sit overnight and check the voltage in the morning. I think 2 problems. Bad battery with big current drain on the starter. possibly a drain issue which adds to the start issue over time.

 

Read the dual battery SSP. It describes how the system will take something like 4 different approaches when attempting to start a dual battery setup. The main problem is that you've ignored lots of issues/faults and they've now stacked up and you're having to battle them all at once.

If you know you have a draw (handle, whatever) address it. Fix it properly, pull the fuse, unplug the component, etc. You've probably drained/damaged your batteries. Have them tested. Check/inspect starting and charging system,, cables, grounds.

 

Check here, post #3 for SSP mentioned.

dual battery replacement and VCDS coding.

Good morning, I'm new, well relatively new, to the forum. I've been gleaning pre-knowledge for a 2008 Toureg 2 V10 TDI. I work at a firm where one of the partners, who owns this beast, is selling it to me for a ridiculously low sum of money. he is a car enthusiast but illiterate when it comes to...

www.clubtouareg.com

 

You can also monitor your battery specs\condition\state using VCDS.
I don't have a dual setup example to give you, but you can look at mine as a guideline and simply search for the additional MVBs that you would have showing you the 2nd battery metrics.

2014 TDI starter battery replacement - probably...

Well, I've had my '14 since '18, and although it's never not started for me, I did notice it cranking slowly during our winters up here, have had a bunch of codes for low voltage events over the years, have had locks and aux heater codes, and other low voltage hints such as the EMS stepping in...

www.clubtouareg.com

You may also want to log your voltage and your rpm during attempted starts where it cranks but doesn't start.
Many of the ECU maps will have RPM cutoffs, and if a TDI motor doesn't sustain something like 295 rpm or something, the ECU won't fire injectors or will cut off fuel supply or whatever.

 

I'd suggest replacing the terminal 15 relay as your first step, clearing all faults and seeing if the kessy one returns.
Your fault is intermittent, so it could be the relay acting up, on its way out, sticky, etc.

 

Get both batteries tested and most likely replaced first. Might as well replace the fob battery.
Rear (AGM)battery is the starting battery.
You cannot hold the key to starting position to keep on cranking, it's managed by the ecu.
Also, instead of turning the key towards the right side have you turned it towards the left to start?

Once batteries are replaced as per specs then clear all codes and check starting....

 

Both batterys replaced and start issue fixed. You can hold the key in crank position until the battery voltage gets to a level. Do not know the level ,thinking around 9-10 volts. Cut off Voltage is high enough you will not hear the car crank slow. Seat battery was the bad battery. Interestingly turning key left did not work. I think this system does not operate until you are asked to do it on the dash. I have been ask "to change battery"it the past and system works well.
Still have a kessy issue. Collecting data for a post now. Thanks to all for the help. Regards Eric

 

With modern cars and the Touareg of course the battery condition is key to everything running properly.

Turning key to left should work all the time, well as long as one of the batteries is at optimum level.
If this isn't working for you then you have another issue.
Clear all codes and scanning again should help narrow down

 

Hi All.
I have a 2008 R50 V10. Thinking I have a kessy problem but I will give a brief outline of problem. Car will not crank for long enough to start 1 in 20 times. I use the key although car has factory push button. Turn the key to start and engine only cranks for a very short time. Not long enough to start. Hold the key in crank position and it will still only crank for a very short time. Normally a few tries with the key and in will crank for long enough to start. lately the central locking is strange. I use the fob key. Sometimes I lock the car and it immediately unlocks. looking at the locking problem further and the door handles only work sometimes to unlock. Black buttons work sometimes. If you press the rear door black buttons there is a clicking sound from under the dash. Sounds like a relay going crazy. Last 10 seconds or so then no more clicking. Car is not used frequently so I do have battery draining issues that didn't concern me until all of the above. Now I am thinking Kessy module.
I have located the clicking noise to be from the kessy module.
I have a Vagcom and scans are attached. I have scanned many times and I never get aerial issues. Usually get power supply issues to Kessy. Sometimes no errors but the door handles will still not work. Key works OK

I have read the DIY repairs to the kessy module but would prefer a professional to do the repair. Where in Australia or preferably Melbourne can I go for Kessy repair, change over or replacement unit. I do not even know a stealer that is up with these problems.
Pictures below of my Kessy. By the date I am thinking this is not the original unit. Anyone know this number.
Regards Eric View attachment 251287
View attachment 251286

New batteries. These v10 motors have to have good batteries . I leave mine on charge if I don't use for the car regularly.

 

I have an r50 with the twin battery setup.
Under seat battery which runs accessorys
Will all ways go flat first.
Even if only one battery is low on voltage it will go into limp mode