Excellent Drag......so is it that the new arm ends are smaller in diameter to compensate for the worn, now smaller diameter of the old ball joint....or.....it is only the socket part of the arms that wears. So only the arms need replacing. Please clarify.

How dirty was the swirl flaps and intake manifold.......dirty enough to be concerned about performance issues?

 

Excellent Drag......so is it that the new arm ends are smaller in diameter to compensate for the worn, now smaller diameter of the old ball joint....or.....it is only the socket part of the arms that wears. So only the arms need replacing. Please clarify.

How dirty was the swirl flaps and intake manifold.......dirty enough to be concerned about performance issues?

Zagg
The new kit not only has a new arm but a knuckle for the flap shaft.
I replaced the whole setup on the LH side while I had the manifold off.
With the right side I only replaced the arm itself not the knuckle.
The LH ball joint was coming apart on the flap shaft end of the link. The new arm was certainly a lot tighter click on assemble than the old arm onto the old knuckle shaft ball and will probably last indefinitely, but it was not as tight as when you replace the knuckle also.. I did not replace the LH knuckle due to not removing the manifold. Oily carbon buildup was clearly present thru the whole inside of the manifolds as is with all EGR engines but was probably no thicker than 1mm any place so I would think no performance issue at all.

Trooper no warranty on a 2007 model purchased privately.


regards
Drag

 

Wouldn't this otherwise normally be covered under the powertrain warranty?

 

not sure if powertrain would cover this or not. Probably would depend on your dealer.

 

Thanks for the write up drag!

Had both my banks replaced by dealer some 6 months ago, I think the bill came in at over $A2200 which my extended warranty paid for.
VW (Allianz) Extended Warranty was very good as they agreed to replace both banks although only one bank threw the error message.
As this problem seems very common on all V6TDI engines over 100K, I did ask for and got both the old manifolds with the plan of changing the flap arms and keeping them as spares........where did you buy your flap arms from?

TonyB

 

Thanks for the write up drag!

Had both my banks replaced by dealer some 6 months ago, I think the bill came in at over $A2200 which my extended warranty paid for.
VW (Allianz) Extended Warranty was very good as they agreed to replace both banks although only one bank threw the error message.
As this problem seems very common on all V6TDI engines over 100K, I did ask for and got both the old manifolds with the plan of changing the flap arms and keeping them as spares........where did you buy your flap arms from?

TonyB

Arms are AUDI part number 059 198 212
Search this number on Ebay and you will find plenty.

regards
Drag

 

Just a brief write up about a known issue with the early 3.0 tdi engine not sure about the later engines.
If you get the fault 18447/P2015/008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1): Implausible Signal it will most likely be the swirl flap arm linkage arm detached from the shaft.
VW do not offer a fix for this except replace the whole inlet manifold at hefty price plus labour.

• First removed LH manifold to repair arm that was not broken, but plan was to do both as a precaution.
• Fairly easy to remove LH manifold and arm kit is very simple to fit including removing VW arms.
• RH manifold is a big pain to remove and this was the manifold with the arm that kept coming off.

-If you have this arm problem I found after repairing the LH manifold and finding how much of a pain to remove the RH manifold I just replaced the old VW arm with the new arm that comes with the kit with out removing the manifold. You can just pop the arm off the actuator shaft and pop on the new arm and it fits fairly tight so I don't expect it to come off again. I believe with a bit of work you could change the crank arm also with out removing the manifold. This would save removing just about anything.

• Had a concern about bleeding the fuel system as I removed the supply lines to the fuel rails from the HP fuel pump and when you run the electric fuel pumps it will not bleed the system so this is what I did.
• pull off the plastic cover over the HP pump tooth drive belt and remove the tensioner and belt.
• crack open some injector line nuts after fitting every thing back on.
• run the electric pump with VCDS and at the same time rotate the HP pump by hand until you get a constant fuel supply coming out of the loosened fuel line nuts.
• tighten the nuts back up and the system is bleed and it starts just about straight up when you are ready.
• The HP pump is easy to rotate by hand with the system cracked so your pump will not be run dry and is not under load during bleeding.

Hope this helps some one

Regards
Drag

Excellent info!