I originally swapped the carrier shims around the first time I rebuilt it. That caused too much backlash. The .003" backlash was after swapping them back to original position, otherwise backlash was about .030" The situation has now warranted making a solid sleeve with shims instead of crush sleeve with shims to set preload. Next, we are working on making the correct thickness pinion shim. The biggest problem will be making the carrier shims. All we have is a lathe. Any suggestions on making the carrier shims or sources for? Also, checking backlash and gear pattern became a problem with pressing on and off the pinion bearings. We decided to grind the pinion shaft just enough to slide the bearings on and off. Do you foresee any problems with that? I don't feel there is enough centrifugal force to rotate them especially with proper preload. I'm still on the path of proper gear wear pattern.
Did you ever do a wear pattern on your diff? If so, how did yours look? I have about 17lbs-in of pinion preload and my wear pattern is showing toe contact on the coast side (concave) and heel on the drive side (convex). I'm doing this on the bench, so no load on the ring gear. The backlash is .003". Since that's the wear pattern, pinion depth needs to increase. Do you think adding more preload to the pinion might help center the pattern? Any concerns with excessive wear on pinion bearings by doing so?
I will say thinking about it, on and off throttle did give a little bit of a knock. It seemed more apparent when say going down a hill and feathering the throttle to maintain speed. The knocking was enough force to constantly have to maintain steering a straight line while cruise was in use.
On the first go at the diff, I never did check the rotational force at the pinion nut. I tightened up the nut until I had maybe .002" play in the hub which was between 40lbs-ft-60lbs-ft if I recall correctly. This time around I'll make sure to measure the turning force. Surprisingly the pinion bearings had no wear after replacing them the first time, so I did not change them out, just installed new races which probably is a waste of time considering how good they look. The carrier races had more wear to them than anything else. However, there are etching lines in them but are not raised. I ran my fingernail across them and nothing snagged so I'm going to reuse them. It seems that the bearing preload is the issue? Off the vehicle on the bench, I turned both axle hubs the same direction, then abruptly changed direction and I could hear the bang/knock. The sound was coming from the pinion area which makes me think that's where the problem was?
I rebuilt my front diff a little over a year ago. Since then, I had some groan along with a small bang when under light acceleration with light load (more noticeable when cruise is on.) The only parts that I didn't change were, rear pinion bearing race, crush sleeve (obvious reasons) and the needle bearing, which showed no wear. I've got the diff out and opened, I see no wear on the bearings. The races looked pretty good but I decided to install new races in the casing. I've machined a spacer for the crush sleeve just as you stated in your post. Do you think my problem occurred with the preload on the pinion bearings since the crush sleeve was just reused? I plan on mocking up the diff and use blue layout fluid to see how the carrier crown and pinion mesh before final reassembly. Any suggestions? Let me know what your opinion is.
Can you please provide the dimensions of the shim that you make (O.D and I.D), I was thinking I could just add shims on the pinion shaft ahead of the crush sleeve and use my original part with minimum new crush. In Drag racing, we used a solid sleeve (no crush) and added shims as required to get the gear alignment and preload right. What I propose is a similar configuration.
I'm in the process of trying to fit a rated recovery point to the front of the Touareg. Once done, I will need to see if your plates will still fit.
What is the latest you need the order and payment?
Thanks Drag, I did that and found metal flake so going to open the front differential and hopefully just change the carrier bearings. Should I avoid changing the Pinion bearings if it turns freely? I read your post about the crush sleeve not being available. Also worried about damaging the shim and no where to go for a replacement.
Thanks i saw your note on the forum but just found this reply now!
I just scored a very nice 2008 MY09 low range centre diff lock etc Touareg with only 53000km 1st reg 10/09. Perfect condition underneath and all round!
do per chance know where i can get a snorkel done on OZ - ideally NSW but QLD or wherever ok.
Hey Stuart referred me to you. I have symptoms indicative of a Front Differential Failure: metal in diff oil, pulsating/shaking, and a growl. After reading threads here I'm thinking that the Carrier Bearings have failed and bought new Timken Bearings for the Carrier and Pinion: LM503349, LM503310, HM88542 and HM89410. Do you concur with my diagnosis and part numbers?
Hi Dragline please can you send me a contact number/email and location as i am in the process of looking for a circa 2012 7P 4XMOTION Tdi with all the lo range and diff lock options and air suspension and would like to fit a bash plate!
also let me know if you know of any vehicles for sale like i am seeking!
I just did the carrier bearing replacement on my R5, that's all good.
To get the tailshaft out I lowered the gearbox mounting bracket.
I heard something snap, it would have been the valve body plug which I reinstalled.
My PRDN is all lit up and the first couple of shifts every time I restart are harsh.
Every time, hot or cold.
Are you the Dragline that Singh call Mark?
If so Singh says you are a VW mechanic? My 150TDI Treg MY2016 needs a 75K service and he recommends you for the job.
I will be doing a Grey Nomads trip north in July and will be visiting my daughter in Ashtonfield as part of the trip.
How much notice do you need from me to book in?
Also what price do you charge to update my maps?