Well done!

 

Hi Nooby, do you happen to know if the compressor solenoid is on the top side of the compressor or the bottom? Can just the solenoid be accessed with spring clip pliers from the bottom side without removing all the times the OP mentioned?

The PO of my 2007 V10 TDI had the A/C filled professionally (not at the dealership) but the shop did not have VCDS. I tried to access the low refrigerant codes to reset them with OBDEveleven but it would not let me get past the first output test step (blowers would shut off) and test would stop. I checked each and every fuse in all three boxes and none are popped

The PO stated that the A/C and compressor kicked in fine before he sold it to me however the A/C was not very cold so he had it charged. He knew the shop would not be able to change the code from "0 to 1 or 1 to 0" and that it would need to be switched at a dealer. Before I throw parts at a potentially working system, do you have any insight?

I'm having the codes read by a shop ( since I do not have a Rosstech cable yet) but don't want to be told to buy a new compressor if I don't need to buy one and if I need codes reset, a solenoid, or a new orifice tube instead, I'd rather do it myself.

Thanks!

Ryan

 

cool. A bit of forward thinking goes a long way. Many members here have done DIY jobs that the dealer says is impossible to do without doing this or that or using this jig etc.

 

My Pics

Air filter removed...can't see much of the compressor!

Bolts at front of engine.

Unbolt bracket from underneath
some of the bolts I removed to move some pipes/hoses out of the way.

Twisting and jiggaling to get it out.

Finally out!

 

New compressor in!

Just an update, I fitted the new compressor and new rubber coupling.
Getting the new one in was harder than getting the old one out...
Basicly just a reversal of the removal with attention to the following..
-Tie back the powersteering hoses (and any wires)as best you can out of the way.
-check that the locators at the 2 rear bolts are in the new compressor and there are no old ones still in the block.( these are just small pieces of pipe that fit into recesses in the compressor and block at the bolt holes)
-don't attach the shaft to the new compressor, sit the shaft with coulpling into the hole in the engine mount (not coupled up, just loose).
-put the new compressor down close to position, then reach in and screw on the shaft, I wasn't worried about trying to get it any tighter than finger tight as the load from the compressor will tighten it up later.
-place the lower, rear bolt into it's hole in the compressor as you cannot get it in once the compressor is in place.
-not sure if it was a fluke, but it only took a little bit of jiggling and twisting to line up the coupling and get the compressor into place...I expected to spend a lot of time lining it up..
-fit new "o"rings to both hoses
The compressor comes with 200mls of oil in it but I didn't want to start the engine until the required extra 100mls was added so I got an AC guy to come around and add the oil and gas, He added the oil but seemed to think 1100g of gas was too much! so he add 950g....(don't ask me!).
I connected the vcds and cleared any faults, Aircon wouldn't cycle or bring up any faults, after a while with no leaks and everything seemed ok...it was still blowing hot air...the guy left me to it.
after a while I managed to get the preasure to come up and the air to go cold...for about 10 seconds!:anger:.
The next morning (4am) I went to work and the aircon seemed cool, but it wasn't hot outside. 3 days later I came back to the Treg and the AC was working fine and has worked well ever since. i Never did find a reason for it not working straight up!

 

As you know by our conversations that was extremly well done V10

regards
Drag

 

Stonking job!

 

Excellent! So having removed the AC compressor do you think it would be possible to do the power steering pump as well?

 

On a similar vein.... My aircon has ceased to function (T2 V10).
Asking Drag for his opinion &/0r anyone else in OZ familiar with the type/quality of aircon servicing here. Currently I am in Lorne, Victoria. Is it appropriate to take the Treg to a "aircon service centre" or should it only go to VW (either genuine or Euro VW aftermarket mechanics) ?? After all, I don't want it stuffed up by an over eager jockey!!!
Help! Dub ps, I only get HOT air from vents, almost as though a heater is on. Fuses checked and OK (2).

 

On a similar vein.... My aircon has ceased to function (T2 V10).
Asking Drag for his opinion &/0r anyone else in OZ familiar with the type/quality of aircon servicing here. Currently I am in Lorne, Victoria. Is it appropriate to take the Treg to a "aircon service centre" or should it only go to VW (either genuine or Euro VW aftermarket mechanics) ?? After all, I don't want it stuffed up by an over eager jockey!!!
Help! Dub ps, I only get HOT air from vents, almost as though a heater is on. Fuses checked and OK (2).

Have you got your VCDS cable with you Dubby as some checks would be in order before compressor removal.

regards
drag

 

Very good! Good to know that it can be done without dropping engine!

 

V10!!!

You are the man! I was told by countless knowledgeable and well-intended people and read countless posts that to replace the AC requires an engine drop. Your story is truly inspiring.

Thank you for posting. I think you're going to be getting commendations from more than a few people in the days, weeks and months ahead.

Regards,

Bill McMullin
Inspired 04 V10 owner with no AC in Canada!

 

Update. German Automotive, Autumn street, West Geelong. Same day, read the codes, regassed, reset the electronics and back on the road again - & COOL. All good. Dub

 

Glad your cool again Dubby given this weather we are having.

regards
drag

 

OP, thanks very much for documenting and sharing your experience. Assuming no pertinent differences between let-hand and right-hand drive cars, I believe I'll pull my compressor this weekend and investigate!

 

While you are messing with the AC compressor take a good look and see if you think the power steering pump could be replaced. My pump is getting noisy and I'm sure it's only a matter of time before it needs replacing.

 

Just wanted to say that this post is a beauty. I never would have attempted to pull the compressor off my V10 without having read through this. Mine is a 2006 and I can confirm that it can be removed without pulling the engine. It took around 2-3 hours and I ended up with afew bruises on my arms just from trying to free the compressor from its home but out it came.

 

Well done.

Let us know when you get it back in!

 

Just waiting for the new compressor to arrive. I do have a question though. I removed the freewheel "one way clutch bearing" from the end of the compressor but im not sure how the shaft extension is removed. There are no wrench slots on it and it doesnt appear to be reverse thread as the impact wouldn't break it loose?

 

Do you mean the black large shear coupling that the overrun coupling screws onto?


This is the kit I used
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Frizione...sore-Climatizzatore-VW-T5-Phaeton-Touareg-5-0-/142074996805?hash=item2114546845


You would need this tool shown also
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Compreso...do-Embrague-con-Herramientas-especiales-VW-T5-/142080971063?hash=item2114af9137


regards
Drag

 

took apart the shear coupler today and had a look. There are no bolts on the backside holding the extension shaft onto the shear coupling. It must be threaded on there and just really tight. Strange they wouldnt mill a slot on it so it could be removed properly with a wrench. Can't use an impact either as the overrun drive bearing spins off in the same direction. Would have to double nut it after the overrun drive bearing thing is removed but that would risk damaging the threads......TOUAREG!!!

 

Sorry yes the bolt inside hold the shear coupling to the compressor.
But now it is apart you can grab the extension on a vise and heat it a bit and try to screw it of that way. (is it a LH or RH thread? )




Remember when reassembled it needs to be dialled in again.


regards
Drag

 

I managed to get the extension off using the method you suggested. A little heat from the torch and a long pipe wrench broke it free. I tried all day today to get the new compressor installed with no luck. Im not sure how the OP managed to just get his to go on but im thinking he just got extremely lucky. The compressor is not able to slide straight in due the a bulge on the block and that makes the lining up of the coupler very difficult. Im going to have another crack at it tomorrow but am not very confident that its going to happen.

 

Got it in yesterday and everything is bolted up. Ended up requiring a combination of some rubber safe lube on the coupling and I ever so slightly chamfered the edges on the rubber coupling to allow its to slide together easier on an angle. I also took a die grinder and beveled the aluminum edge on the engine mount where the compressor shear coupling slides through. It is really really tight to get it through and the slight bevel made it much more forgiving. All and all its a miserable task. Everything from taking the airbox out to removing the intercooler clamps is difficult. Its a job I never hope to do again, my arms a covered in bruises but its done now. Ill find out next week when I get the system charged if it was all worth it.

Side note* I also changed the receiver drier which is this long element that slides out of the condenser core. There actually is a nice little access plug above it on the plastic cover left of the hood latch. You reach down with a fairly long set of snap ring pliers and remove the snap ring the retains the cap on the condenser core. The cap comes out and then the element slides right out. The element I pulled out of there was totally plugged with this grey coloured chalky paste. Certainly worth the $30 for the new one (aftermarket). VW wanted almost $200 for it

 

Im half way through the removal part of this job and holy crap is it frustrating! Ive got it loose and can jiggle the compressor around but its snagging hard on something that I cant see. I have about 2cm clearance behind as it slides out but its not even getting that far.
One part I cant figure out is where is the bolt for the steel tube (with powering steering line I gather) actually located? Perhaps with it out of the way Id have more clearance.

Also on install do you really just "push" it all back in blindly, to the rubber coupler on the other side? Is it possible to just undo both engine mounts and lift the engine to make this a lot easier?

 

Think I missed the both on T1 V10 ownership! I have it out now, awaiting on new parts to arrive to replace. Will be good to get AC, never happy in a car without AC.

 

Hey Kodachrome, I'm there with you. I'm trying to get the compressor out but to no avail. Shoot, I was event contemplating taking off the front radiator to get it out. Any pointers are greatly appreciated. I'm at the jiggly part but I can't seem to get it out.

 

I also considered taking the rad out but it wasnt required! After posting got a second person and had it out in 15min!

What I did:
- took off the intercooler/turbo piping from below
- take out the AC temp prob if you have one (its screwed into one of the pipes and was also in the way)
- got it out far enough to get that 3rd bottom screw fully out as it was catching on things. Basically put a socket on it and unthreaded it off the frame/stuff it was touching.
- got a helper to wiggle it and pull it out while I lay under the car and supported from below. From there I could see where the clutch on the front was catching and tweak the angles till it basically popped out and was simply hanging on wiring, pipes.
- once the clutch is past the opening, it just requires a bit of force to twist out backwards and out.


Putting it in was super easy, I didnt do it as described in this thread, here was my approach;
- put rubber coupling on cog on engine side. Covered it in Krytox rubber treatment.
- slide compressor with shaft attached in
- roughly line up screw holes so its orientated correctly. I didnt put in the 3rd bottom screw at all, fine without it IMO. I tried but it was again catching and falling out.
- push compressor in far enough so that from under the car you can see the bearing on shaft touching the rubber coupling. You wont have enough hand force to get it to mount/align correctly.. so get a long crowbar with a flat end on it onto the back of the shaft (again from under car) and lever it into the rubber coupling. Ensure no wiring gets snagged (a helper is good here too but I actually did this on my own).

Putting it in physically (not connecting it up and reassembing pipes etc) was under 10min.


PS: I note some people took out the dipstick tube, I didnt as that seemed to invite a world of mission creep like taking the rad out. I did use it was a handy visual marker to see how far in/out the compressor is. There is no need to take out as it just about slides by it.

 

Did you happen to replace the freehub too when you replaced the compressor? I notice that my belt is pretty loose on the drive side, an will be replacing it. Not sure if I should do the freehub as well, I see it is mentioned as a service item but not sure if it needs replacing or if it's just a "dealer" upcharge sort of thing.

 

The freewheel hub (overrun coupling) is a must to be replaced as this is the normal failure point.

Regards
Drag

 

Okay, so I got the compressor out and have a replacement n280 valve, drier, coupling, and belt ready. I also have a compressor on standby if needed. Originally, I thought I saw a piece of metal when I pulled the valve, and thought the compressor was toast. However, I was looking at the oil that leaked out of the compressor and would like some input from some A/C savvy people. Nevermind the wood piece on the plastic, there was no solid pieces that came out with the oil. I'd assume this is 10 year old PAG oil, would this be what's expected or does it indicate any other issues. I am planning on starting to put everything back together unless I run into something. Should I just replace the PAG oil in the compressor and drier, the N280 valve, the drier and the coupling and belt? Or do I need to replace the compressor and do a flush on the entire system? Also, if anyone knows what the quanties would be for the PAG oil for the compressor and drier replacement would be, in a 4 zone system? I know the total for the system is around 10 ounces. I'm looking what would need replaced for changing the drier and draining replacing the compressor.

.

 

So...basically, I what I want to understand is this what normal/typical 10 year old PAG oil would look like taken from a system? I can't seem to find any pictures of what would be the typical state of 10 year old PAG oil.