I'm not quite sure I understand pumping the new ATF fluid in.

It looks as though you are pumping it in through the same drain drain hole the old ATF came out of at the start.

It you are, why isn't the ATF coming out as soon as you start putting it in?

Excellent post by the way.

 

I'm not quite sure I understand pumping the new ATF fluid in.

It looks as though you are pumping it in through the same drain drain hole the old ATF came out of at the start.

It you are, why isn't the ATF coming out as soon as you start putting it in?

Excellent post by the way.

Hi
inside the filler hole there is a tube which protrudes up into the trans sump this is a predetermined length and it governs the correct depth of oil in the pan
so when you pump oil in through the filler plug hole it cant run out until the oil reaches the top of that tube its like an upside down dipstick its a very clever idea my vw golf TDI has the same thing hoping this imfo enlightens you and you can grasp my explanation cheers

 

no its not the drain hole its the one which must be used for filling the new oil #1 is for draining and #2 is for filling, most of the time both of them must be taken off at the same time to be cleaned well

 

Thank you.

 

awesome write up!!!!! will be doing this procedure soon..What is the part number of the atf and how many quarts did you end up using since typically that is how it is sold in quart bottles..

 

the part i used are OEM and the numbers are:
transmission filter 09D 325 435
pan gasket 09D 321 371
ATF G 055 025 A2 i bought 7 bottles of ATF

 

3 questions:

1. After you filled 3 liters and started the engine, did you leave the engine on while pumping the remaining 3.7 liters?

2. Additionally, did you have to apply any gasket compound after removal of old gasket and before the new gasket was replaced?

3. How can you be certain all of the old fluid drained? One post I read stated that there were inaccessible chambers in the the tranny that required the fluid to be vacuumed out.

Thanks for the write up ... it looks easier than everyone had previously thought, which concerns me ... is it really that easy?

 

question 1 - yes engine must be running
question 2 - i have not used anything, only new gasket
question 3 - total amount of the transmission oil is 10 liters in the transmission but only 7 liters are replaceable if you do it in the way as i did, using vacuum i have not heard to be honest. 3 liters of old oil stays in the radiator and cooling system of transmission hope i answered your questions

 

ATF Level, Checking and Filling

• The ATF level is specified by a permanently installed overflow tube in the oil pan.

• The ATF level is checked when fluid is a specific temperature and with engine running. The ATF temperature is read out by the Vehicle Diagnosis, Testing and Information System VAS 5051B . If the test temperature has been reached, the sealing plug in the oil pan is removed to check the ATF. Marty

Test temp is 30 C

 

do you suggest to check it again?? attachment does not work....

 

do you suggest to check it again?? attachment does not work....

Thank you so much for your answers. Very helpful.
Your pan looks brand new ... What did you use to clean all of the fluid out?

How often do guys recommend changing ATF, since my dealer says to never change it?

 

i used ordinary CLEAN cloth. 2 T-shirts but make sure they are clean as i know it is recommended to change 80-100k miles i know i will never have to do it again on this car.

 

Hi Nikoloz
Which model and year is the vehicle that is in the trans oil video thanks for the very informative step by step instruction the VW dealers here in aust tell us that the trans oil never needs cbanging but i dont beleive that as i have chaged the trans oil in my vw golf TDI EVERY 50.000 KMS and each time after it changes much smoother i personelly believe their advice is designed to create business in their repair department costing big dollars when regular oil changes has proven over many years to be the best policy cheers Baztreg

question 1 - yes engine must be running
question 2 - i have not used anything, only new gasket
question 3 - total amount of the transmission oil is 10 liters in the transmission but only 7 liters are replaceable if you do it in the way as i did, using vacuum i have not heard to be honest. 3 liters of old oil stays in the radiator and cooling system of transmission hope i answered your questions

So is there an trans oil drian plug on the transmission oil cooler or a hose that could be disconnected to let that 3ltrs drain out?? Would be an advantage to be able to drain it away and replace it all with new oil thanks Baztreg

Did the fluid and filter change on my 2010 at 50k miles. After I added about 3+ liters of new fluid I started the Treg. Then started pumping more fluid in until it started dripping out the fill hole. Waited a few more minutes and added more fluid until started dripping again. Then got in and ran through the gears a few times holding in each gear for a few seconds. Got back under and added more fluid until it started dripping again then closed the fill hole. Shifting was much smoother. 2 weeks later did the same thing, but only replaced the fluid and the shifts were even smoother. At 70k+ miles now and the shifts are still buttery smooth.

According to the previously linked data sheet the Halvoline Multi-Vehicle ATF ("DEXRON-VI") meets the G 055 540 spec, which is the right one for the 8-speed transmission of the second generation Touaregs, and which the LM Top Tec 1200 does not meet.

So, Top Tec 1800 and Halvoline Multi-Vehicle ATF both seem to be proper fluids for 8-speed second generation transmission, and Top Tec 1200 is the one that should be used in a first gen. 6-speed transmission - albeit there are several other fluids offered by other manufacturers that can also be used in the latter.

Penrite also make a vw trans oil that i use in my golf 6speed trans but not sure if its suitable for 8sp toureg will have to check this out
cheers Baztreg

 

nikoloz,

Nicely written, 10 Q.
But each time you wrote pronoun "I", as would you did it yourself, when in fact the job had been done by trained personnel, hadn't it? (in all honesty)

...mechanic told me...

To make your guidelines more precise, please specify:
What kind of torque did you apply to screws? Is it necessary to shift selector in each gear for a moment when you start up engine or not? How did you fill the oil, using a hand pump? Photo would be appreciated.

 

vitali i dont know why but your comments make me lough all the time dont get me wrong though
the job was done by me and certified mechanic from VW.
and the thread is called DIY because its easy to do yourself if you follow this instructions step by step. good luck to you and marry christmas.

 

• At the test temperature of 30 ° C.

• Remove locking bolt - arrow - in oil pan to check ATF.

• If ATF level is too high, the excess ATF drains off.

• Allow ATF to drain until it drips.

• Fasten ATF inspection plug with new gasket to 70 Nm.

• If the ATF level is too low, only the ATF in the filler hole drains out after the sealing plug is removed.

• Wait approximately 30 seconds and if no more ATF drips out, top it off.

• Add ATF using ATF Filler Tool V.A.G 1924 until ATF exits from check hole.

• Allow ATF to drain until it drips.

• Fasten ATF inspection plug with new gasket to 70 Nm. The ATF check is now completed.

• Switch off engine.

Nice write up and pics,Marty

 

Same to you, nikoloz. Merry Christmas and a very Happy and Prosperous New Year!

So, you've admitted the fact

Review the thread, each post you reiterate like this

i used ordinary CLEAN cloth.

an so on... I got a false impression that the job was done by yourself.

 

Very nice work nikoloz, thank you! Bow Down

 

[*]At the test temperature of 30 ° C.



[*]Remove locking bolt - arrow - in oil pan to check ATF.



[*]If ATF level is too high, the excess ATF drains off.



[*]Allow ATF to drain until it drips.



[*]Fasten ATF inspection plug with new gasket to 70 Nm.



[*]If the ATF level is too low, only the ATF in the filler hole drains out after the sealing plug is removed.



[*]Wait approximately 30 seconds and if no more ATF drips out, top it off.



[*]Add ATF using ATF Filler Tool V.A.G 1924 until ATF exits from check hole.



[*]Allow ATF to drain until it drips.



[*]Fasten ATF inspection plug with new gasket to 70 Nm. The ATF check is now completed.



[*]Switch off engine.


Nice write up and pics,Marty

Forgive my ignorance ... Are you saying you check the level w/ engine running?

 

thank you volkswagendude

 

yes hylander engine must be running to perform ATF level check

 

Just NEVER put it into gear like Drive or Reverse while performing the procedure.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com Free App

 

On every AT ive ever changed the fluid and filter on i always cycled it several times through drive and reverse before checking fluid level then returned to park are you saying they should not do it in this instance? Or did you just mean not while checking the fluid? Haha

 

Did the fluid and filter change on my 2010 at 50k miles. After I added about 3+ liters of new fluid I started the Treg. Then started pumping more fluid in until it started dripping out the fill hole. Waited a few more minutes and added more fluid until started dripping again. Then got in and ran through the gears a few times holding in each gear for a few seconds. Got back under and added more fluid until it started dripping again then closed the fill hole. Shifting was much smoother. 2 weeks later did the same thing, but only replaced the fluid and the shifts were even smoother. At 70k+ miles now and the shifts are still buttery smooth.

 

Did the fluid and filter change on my 2010 at 50k miles. After I added about 3+ liters of new fluid I started the Treg. Then started pumping more fluid in until it started dripping out the fill hole. Waited a few more minutes and added more fluid until started dripping again. Then got in and ran through the gears a few times holding in each gear for a few seconds. Got back under and added more fluid until it started dripping again then closed the fill hole. Shifting was much smoother. 2 weeks later did the same thing, but only replaced the fluid and the shifts were even smoother. At 70k+ miles now and the shifts are still buttery smooth.

Hey Zagg thanks for clarifying, but what did you mean by "2 weeks later did the same thing, but only replaced the fluid" Did you just open the fill hole run thru the gears & check the level of the fluid?

 

2 weeks later I opened both plugs and drained the fluid only. Didn't change the filter or take the pan off. Refilled with new fluid like I said in the other post.

My original thought was to do it 2 weeks later just to see if there really would be a difference in changing the fluid again since I know I didn't get all the fluid out the first time. If it really would make a difference since I didn't drain the fluid in the cooler and torque converter. It did make a difference to me and I could notice a visual difference in fluid color. The 2 week old fluid was darker than the new fluid.

 

2 weeks later I opened both plugs and drained the fluid only. Didn't change the filter or take the pan off. Refilled with new fluid like I said in the other post.

My original thought was to do it 2 weeks later just to see if there really would be a difference in changing the fluid again since I know I didn't get all the fluid out the first time. If it really would make a difference since I didn't drain the fluid in the cooler and torque converter. It did make a difference to me and I could notice a visual difference in fluid color. The 2 week old fluid was darker than the new fluid.

Thanks for the quick response. I'm at 92,000 & am embarrassed to say I have never changed the ATF. How long does the fill tube need to be? Do you have a pic of the pump you used that you'd be willing to share?

 

Yeah i am curious to see the pump you used too. I've never changed mine either but im only at 65k, i will be changing it around 70k probably with all of the difs