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DIY: T1 V8 Intake Manifold Removal

29K views 34 replies 12 participants last post by  Touareg Happy  
#1 ·
The purpose of this DIY is to get to the check valves (drain down valves) under the valley pan, under the intake manifold. New replacement parts don't actually exist, but more on that later.

I accept no responsibility if you attempt this and accidentally leave a bolt in your cylinder head, causing irreparable damage.

That said, this is actually quite a simple procedure for those willing to tackle it.

It's a good idea to replace your intake manifold gaskets while everything is apart. I also cleaned the intake runners in the manifold & the head while it was all apart (Seafoam works great for this, soak them & wipe away the grime). Keep a vacuum handy for any loose particles that fall into the runners (unavoidable to an extent).

You will need VAG-COM to adapt the throttle body once you're done.

The first step is to remove the engine covers. If this is beyond you, stop now & back away from the vehicle.

Disconnect your Battery negative terminal (in front of the driver's seat, 13mm)

Covers removed:


Next, you'll need to cut & remove the several black cable ties that hold different parts of the wiring to other assorted parts. There are a few of them on either side of the fuel rail:


Next, unplug all electrical connections & vacuum lines shown, except the injectors as they are easier to reach when the manifold is unbolted and lifted an inch or so.




Once the following is removed, unplug the vacuum lines & remove the solenoid:

These next two (one on each side) will be free from the rail once unplugged:

I don't have a good pic of the throttle body connector, but there is only one:


You'll also need to remove the vacuum line from the back of the manifold, under the throttle body & the one on top of the TB (screw clamp). Both of these are easier to get to with the PCV valve removed. I cut and removed all of the Oetiker clamps on all of the PCV hoses, then removed the PCV hoses.

Loosen the clamp on the TB hose and pull it off of the throttle body.

Pic with all the hoses removed & electrical connections disconnected:

The fuel line can be disconnected at this point (grab a rag or two, also note the PCV valve removed):


At this point, unbolt all of the manifold bolts with a 5mm Allen socket. Some of them are tricky to get to (those near the back). Make sure you have a magnetic pickup tool, you will drop them. You'll note other fasteners on the manifold with a "torx-like" head. Leave those as the hold the two halves of the manifold together.

Once the manifold is loose, lift it an inch or so & unplug the fuel injectors. Finally, lift the manifold out, while pulling it towards the front of the vehicle. Make sure it's not caught on any vacuum lines or electrical connectors.

Also find the one Allen bolt in the back of the manifold holding the only metal PCV line to the manifold itself (driver's side, shown below):


You can also see the vacuum line under the TB hose (passenger side) that needs removing (mentioned earlier).

Vacuum all of the loose stuff out of everything. Clean the runners if you like.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

I went on to remove the valley pan cover to "replace" the check valves underneath (the two Allen head items here):


I'll explain what happened with these in a reply post.
 
#2 ·
VW lists two part numbers as replacements for these valves:

059103175F
078103175F

They are both the same, the only difference being an O-ring at the base on the second one (shown in the following pics).

The second is actually listed for a 2.8 V6 which is found in the Passats.
Here is a picture of the issue:
Old part:

New Part:

Notice the size difference in the thread diameter. The new part is the same in every other dimension, but won't thread into the hole.
Here they are side by side:


I emailed back & forth with VWoA about this, but they were unable to come up with a suitable replacement part.

These valves prevent oil from draining out of the heads when the vehicle is shut off, preventing dry starts (loud valves on cold starts). Mine were stuck, causing this symptom.

I was able to clean them out by soaking them in Seafoam for a day. I also used the new O-rings from the new parts on the old.

Since the intake manifold is (relatively) easy to remove, I may do this every 50k miles or so to keep everything freed up.
 
#6 ·
Excellent!
 
#7 ·
I got a call from VWoA today. It seems the parts were sorted/labeled incorrectly somewhere along the packaging line & the first part number I listed (059103175F) is indeed the correct number. I'll have the parts in my hands by this weekend (9/5) to verify. Apparently, since this part is rarely requested, the oversight wasn't found until I came along.
 
#17 ·
Bad news to report. Well fort the good news. ALLDATA told me the torque specs on the check valves. Now for the bad news. Upon tightening the last but and bolt to complete the job, the engine ran perfect. No rattle, Woo-Hoo. Oh yeah, the bad news, well after letting it idle for a few hours and checking for problems. The mechanic took the Treg for a test drive. That's when I happened. Engine rattle for a few seconds then the Low Oil Pressure warning light came on. I don't understand!
 
#29 · (Edited)
Really curious what happened here.

I need to do my valley pan gasket as it’s leaking on my accessory pulleys . Debating to do check valves too but concerned about getting correct part or causing a problem.

The valley pan gasket 077-103-197-C is no longer available. Does anyone know if the Audi part 077-103-197-D may work? They don’t show as interchangeable but that doesn’t always mean that’s correct..
 
#18 ·
I have done a valley pan gasket in my bmw 540i. It has a plastic plate/cover and underneath is a cast iron tub with anaerobic gasket along the edge. I had to replace the cast iron tub. Did you have to also replace the VP? Could you share the gaskets or parts that you replaced as I am looking at the VP and thinking maybe I can just re-tighten the bolts. Thanks
 
#21 ·
Consider this. . . .

First, great thread on the manifold removal. I didn't know about the valves that hold oil in the engine, great to know since I will be looking at a manifold swap in the near future.

Secondly, I am curious if you would consider performing the stuck flap procedure for a fellow enthusiast. The only mechanic I trust with my VWs won't do it. I have picked up a good working mani and once swapped, would like to have the flaps fixed in the original. Preferably by someone who has experience with these flaps.
 
#23 ·
Great, Thanks!! I am new to the club, so my reply won't go thru until I make some more posts. I would have PM'ed you to begin with but it wouldn't let me. I will answer your PM once I have met the minimum post number.