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spdfrk

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Just want to ask a quick question to which I hope someone who has gone down this path before may have the answer to. the front diff on the old girl has decided to start whining and id like to overhaul it before further damage ensues. From what I have read there seems to be a discrepancy for the carrier bearings. Some say that the bearing and race that are installed is a Timken KLM 503349 and KLM 503310 combo and to replace it with Timkin LM503349 and 503310 combo. However after some research on those part numbers one thing stood out. Both bearings have the same inside and outside diameter but where the difference lies is the thickness. The KLM part numbered bearing is 20mm thick and the LM part numbered bearing is 18mm thick. Does anyone have a picture of the number on the originally installed bearing and race?

Also could anyone supply a part number for the pinion bearing and crush sleeve? many thanks in advance, and yes I will update and post pics of the work moving forward from here.
 
Just want to ask a quick question to which I hope someone who has gone down this path before may have the answer to. the front diff on the old girl has decided to start whining and id like to overhaul it before further damage ensues. From what I have read there seems to be a discrepancy for the carrier bearings. Some say that the bearing and race that are installed is a Timken KLM 503349 and KLM 503310 combo and to replace it with Timkin LM503349 and 503310 combo. However after some research on those part numbers one thing stood out. Both bearings have the same inside and outside diameter but where the difference lies is the thickness. The KLM part numbered bearing is 20mm thick and the LM part numbered bearing is 18mm thick. Does anyone have a picture of the number on the originally installed bearing and race?

Also could anyone supply a part number for the pinion bearing and crush sleeve? many thanks in advance, and yes I will update and post pics of the work moving forward from here.

Try this
And this http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f95/extremely-specific-front-diff-questions-130018-11.html
Regards
Drag
 

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Discussion starter · #3 ·
that's what I am looking for!! Big thanks Drag. I'll keep everyone posted on my other findings. Will also include it in my soon to be written build thread
 
I know this is an old thread, but has anyone come up with a viable replacement for the crush sleeve, or a source and part #?

Also, does anyone have a picture of the pinion flange shaft out of the differential? I'm told mine is worn and will leak with a new seal.
 
I know this is an old thread, but has anyone come up with a viable replacement for the crush sleeve, or a source and part #?

Also, does anyone have a picture of the pinion flange shaft out of the differential? I'm told mine is worn and will leak with a new seal.

Fred
Getting around the crush sleeve is easy with one of 2 methods I have used.
Either machine the existing sleeve shorter by 0.157" mm and make a small spacer sleeve to add to it that is 0.177"mm long effectively giving it 0.020" crush again
or
I also peen the crush area while spinning in a lathe and actually lengthen it by about 0.015" then reuse it.


I did track some new sleeve alternatives down but even they where not an exact replica of the ZF sleeve and you had to make a spacer for them.


Either replace the pinion flange or maybe fit a speedy sleeve.


regards
Drag
 
Drag,
It can be barely felt with your fingernail run across it. I have reinstalled similar pieces on other vehicle with no issues. I just wanted a second opinion on this, as I've never gone this far into my treg's driveline. Thank you sir...


Fred
 
If you can barely feel it with your fingernail and there are no pitting in the area that the seal runs then should be OK. If unsure, use a strong magnifying glass or diopter to check the area.
Use some Scotch pad to buff the area. Like Dragline said, it is difficult to comment just with a picture.

Next best is a speedy sleeve to be sure. I have used them in the past on industrial hydraulic pump/motor shafts and they do work.
 
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