I use ( have used for many years in many diesels) PRI-D additive/stabilizer in my '12 TDi.
http://www.priproducts.com/
It's huge in the industrial oil supply world, not so well known in the Wally World of consumers. Big in the survivalist section too ;-).
As far as oil changes, my dealers service centre has recommended 6 mo / 5000 oil changes just to be on the safe side. It sounds prudent to me, and that's what I'm doing.

 

I use Lubro-Moly's Diesel Fuel Additive.

Also, just my personal preference, I do every 5K oil changes.

 

With lubricity of fuel being an issue in North America, as well as fuel being dry, without water in it, I've heard it recommended that you add a quart of biodiesel per 12 gallons, for lubriicty, and that you run Power Service White bottle to keep your fuel dry, about 6 or 7 ounces per 20-23 gallon fillup.

YMMV, but that's what I would do.

 

I use http://www.stanadyne.com, VW approved according the the VW service center.

 

Source



All sources are 60+ miles from Minneapolis.

 

I use 4oz of Standyne every fill up. You can get it at AutoZones throughout CA.

 

Nothing else out there will match the lubricity of a pinch of biodiesel. Nothing else out there will be as effective either, since it is a fuel first, you are adding fuel to your tank, that has the natural ability to add lubricity. It's not an "additive", it's a fuel. It is also priced accordingly, as a fuel, and it the most cost effective lubricity method currently available, while still not being and additive, it being a fuel that has the benefit of adding slipperyness goodness to your HFPF and lowering the wear scar size the most. VW/Bosch approve up to B5, B1 to B2 is ideal, and in Germany, where VW and Bosch test their products, they make biodiesel out of rapeseed oil, and the fuel there, based on rapeseed oil, is B7 country wide. American biodiesel, is based on soy bean oil, not rapeseed, or Canola oil.

See the results of the Spicer lubricity study, Google it, and form your own opinion. Lot's of snake oils out there.

Lubricity Additive Study Results - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

 

See the results of the Spicer lubricity study, Google it, and form your own opinion. Lot's of snake oils out there.

Lubricity Additive Study Results - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

Really interesting study. Is there more info on the methodology used, or is it all just on the forum? I'd really be interested to pick it apart in more detail. Looks really thorough though. Would have been nice if they'd looked at other factors besides just lubricity.

A couple of questions that jump immediately to mind - with the biodiesel, how much benefit would you get mixing 100% vice, say, putting in 5 gallons of B5? Clearly not all biodiesel is created equally, so it'd be interesting to see the lubricity of various brand's B5 vs the baseline fuel they used.

The reason I use standyne (which looks like it works) instead of biodiesel is because the only station within ~35 miles that sells biodiesel B5 is a really shady Alliance, and even though I drive by twice a day, I've never seen anyone buying it... When I'm up in San Jose I'll buy a couple of gallons of B20 from BP, but that's only once every 4 or 5 tanks so far.

 

Many of the other threads on this board talk about Powerservice diesel additives, grey for summer and white for winter. My mpg has increased by 4% with the grey, which makes the additive pay for itself.

I use 8 oz. every tankful. It is available in most Walmarts.

 

Niner, I agree entirely about the effectiveness of biodiesel as a lubricant, have used it in my IDI landcruiser engine or years, it's the effect of the long chain organic oil molecules, even after transesterification. The big problem in our engines with biodiesel is the residual ethanol, of which there are no maximum standards enforced. Ethanol is highly hydrophilic, meaning it readily absorbs moisture, then as the ethanol in your tank evaporates, it leaves a higher concentration of water in your fuel than there would be normally. It is this moisture that can quickly destroy our HPFPs. This ethanol/moisture problem (in gasoline) is particularly evident in two stroke engine damage in chainsaws, which is why all major saw manufacturers warn against it. This is, of course not even touching on the damage the ethanol does to our fuel systems elastomer components.
Just a thought...

 

Find properly washed, and dried biodiesel for consumption in your touareg. This is also why I highly recommend running Power Service White, to keep your fuel dry.

I also recommend always doing fuel filter changes right as fall starts, before morning freezing occurs, and dosing heavily with Power Service white 2 or 3 tankfuls in a row before fall, before the first freeze. Get all the moisture from humid summer days out of your fuel tank, and out of your fuel filter where it can cause the fuel filter to freeze up and block fuel passage.

 

In support of Niner's comment.......

The lubricity of biodiesel comes from the molecular structure of the fatty acid ester. The acid/ester head containing 2 oxygens, 1 carbon and 1 hydrogen is very polar. Whereas, the aliphatic/alkyl/hydrocarbon/R' chain is very nonpolar. The polar ester head has high affinity towards other polar materials like metals. Therefor biodiesel has a much greater ability to form a protective layer on metals than regular diesel which has no polar "head". The polar head hydrogen bonds to the metal and the slippery aliphatic tail hangs out away from the metal. Two adjacent metal parts covered with biodiesel will be lubricated from one another by the aliphatic tails of opposing molecules rubbing each other. In all actuality, instead of metal-metal atoms rubbing together you now have a layer of carbon-carbon atoms rubbing together. The same holds true for ester based synthetic motor oils.

Additionally, these polar aliphatic esters form micelles, google it nd you'll see the structure, which aid in lubricity characteristics.

Properly washed and dried biodiesel is also very important. Yes, you can wash a liquid. In the field of chemistry you wash a liquid with a liquid to remove impurities. You wash biodiesel with distilled/ deionized water to remove any residual, un reacted alcohol, base used for saponification, soap, glycerol and salts ( reaction intermediates). Then you dry the biodiesel with a salt. Not table salt or road salt, but a sulfate salt like magnesium, potassium or sodium sulfate. Using an air bubbler as some biodiesel makers do is not proper drying. You throw that into the mix or pack a column and run the biodiesel through it. Any residual water and water/alcohol mix will bond to the salt leaving your biodiesel "dried". A properly washed and dried biodiesel would not have a high residual ethanol content that you'd have to worry about.

Analine is used so much because it is a byproduct of many petroleum processes and it also has a polar head and aliphatic tail. It exhibits the same properties as aliphatic esters, just not as good. The aliphatic tail is only 6 carbons, cyclic and turns to solid much quicker.

 

Much thanks, Zagg, for the explanation. I am a layman, by trade, yet somehow get a good grasp of things that pique my curiousity, and that was a great explanation of the "why" that biodiesel is so effective as a lubricity agent as a basis for being part of ones fuel structure, without the rhetoric or agenda that so many biodiesel enthusiasts have given in the past, in order to get others off of petroleum based oil.

It is my understanding that this polar head is very very effective, even in minute quantities when in regular hydrocarbon based diesel fuel. I have never seen the study that breaks it down, via lab tests, the amounts % blend wise of biodiesel required to get to acceptable wear scar limits. Would be curious to see those lab results from wear scar testing.

The more I look at micelles on Google, the more I see the heads rubbing heads , while the tails bond with the metal, and round heads rubbing round head usually means low friction coefficients, through the advances of modern chemistry, good gliding chemistry in place.

You've thoroughly explained to all who will read and grasp it, why biodiesel in small amounts, is one of the best things to have as a part of your diesel fuel when it comes to being kind to your HPFP long term.

 

Here's a study performed on diesel fuel additives, it's from 2007 so it might be a bit dated.
It fully supports Niner's assessment that biodiesel is the best additive, but it also rates other alternatives.

 

Note that while the untreated, dry fuel started as a 626 wear scar, and 520 wear scar is the requirement for US fuel.... 460 wear scar is what BOSCH requires, for a 2000 hour life on their HPFP. 2000 hours at 50 mph life of the pump average, is 100,000 miles.

Of additional note is that the wear scar of fuel in Germany, where Bosch is based, it is almost continually UNDER 280 microns, due to the biodiesel content of all diesel fuel in Germany, the country gave tax credits for biodiesel fuel blends, so all manufacturers blend to B7 in Germany.

This is, unfortunately, the basis fuel that Bosch tests all their fuel pump designs on...

My point being, it would behoove all of us to emulate the German fuel standard in terms of getting the wear scar of US fuel to as close to or under a 280 micron wear scar standard, if the pump is to live long beyond 2000 hours of run time.

 

Fuel Polishing

You can also add this system used in recreational boat marine diesels.

 

It's interesting how we in the Upper Midwest are seeking to avoid bio blends, seeking high cetane, high volume pure diesel. Meanwhile, you coastal US folks are going to great lengths to add the stuff, treated and dried varietals no less.

Minnesota has mandated B2 since ~2005. It's approaching B10 in legislation soon. I know VW apparently warrantees only B5 or less, but it's interesting how the German government is streamlining B7.

Just funny to see things from the other side of the fence ...

 

Horton - I guess I could say that it's a "grass is always greener on the other side of the fence" kind of situation, which of course in CA is the operative term - - "green" that is. It is somewhat strange that our environmental fixation here trumps many considerations of finding & using the best engineering solutions possible in cars today. It leaves us looking for additives, or maybe even your biodiesel, in an effort to avoid likely problems; while you are faced with concern over other issues possibly created by these same bio fuels. An interesting dilemma.

 

I use 500ml JASO FC 2 stroke per full tank diesel.

 

I use Millers Power Diesel on each fill, it replaces the cetane in modern "clean" fuel.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

With all I have read and understand I think the B7 German mandate is more of a farmer/system economics and sustainability thing. That overall, for the farmers to produce BD crops and crop by-products for BD the gov't must mandate a certain percentage of BD use so there is enough money to be made by everyone (i.e. seed companies, farmers, harvesters, BD producers/blenders, etc.). It is well documented that beyond 2 percent of BD there is minimal lubricity benefits and in some climates you increase the risk of jelling and yada-yada-yada above 2 percent.

 

Biodiesel at Love's Truck Stops

When I started this thread, my focus was solely on the proper additive to use in my new car. Then some good advice suggested the use of biodiesel blends for lubricity & a good additive for everything else. So that became my approach to this problem.

And in my quest to locate any biodiesel blended ULSD here in CA I had checked with the major truck stop vendors (Flying J, Pilot & Love's), but found that while some of their facilities did indeed provided it, none were located near where I live according to their websites. The folks at Love's were the most responsive & I guess this caused me to go ahead & drive to their fueling place about 3 miles from where I live even though the main website stated only 100% ULSD was available there.

So I pulled up to a pump & lo & behold, a big green sticker said "B5"! Heck, I figured the best I could hope for in CA might be to locate some B2, or just have to take my chances that refiners here in SoCal might be putting some lubricity additives in their diesel, & that it might even be biodiesel. As an aside, a large biofuel producer here in CA told me that one of their biggest customers was an oil company whose name I would know that was buying as much B100 as they could produce in order to add it to their ULSD at 1%-2% for lubricity purposes. Also at this level I was told there is no requirement to label it as anything other than straight ULSD.

The lesson, I suppose for those on the same path I have taken, is not to be thwarted by online info that suggests no biodiesel is available from vendors & to check out the individual stations to be sure. And I certainly would recommend that anyone might look for a Love's truck stop in those states where biodiesel blends are hard to find. So now the only decision is the additive to use to deal with the other known perils of diesel fuel, but that is starting to look a whole lot more manageable. Cheers,

Jed

 

I was getting B5 from a Chevron in Sugar Land, Texas near my home for $3.49 a gallon up until three days ago. Needless to say, I was very happy. They must have just got wise. It's now $3.65... I am adding 4 oz of power service white very tank. It's humid down here. There is also a place selling B100 downtown in the Hipster area of town.

 

I use Lucas seems to make it run smoother and improves economy by about 5%. I put it in about every 4th tank.

 

Well, I made my first blend of blend of B100 with Chevron B5 or less. 3 gallons to the tank. There is an immediate difference in valve train clatter and slightly quicker start.

Houston Biodiesel says they have 2011+ Tregs running 100% B100. Not going to do that, but I will run the 3 gallons per tank. Does anyone see a potential problem with that?

 

sorry if this is a really stupid question, but how do you get the interior fuel door open to put an additive in. I have a 2013 TDI, and unless I use a specific diesel nozzle at the fuel station, the door does not budge. when trying to add an additive, I tried a couple of funnels to no avail

 

The door doesn't have to open. Just pour slow. Standyne bottles will actually reach.

 

So, in Minnesota, state law requires or mandates that all diesel sold here (since 2005) is a 5% biodiesel/diesel blend or B5 if I have the nomenclature correct. Exceptions are made for certain off-road equipment, Coast Guard marine engines, etc AND, during the winter months, diesel #1. This was slated to change to B10 a year ago, but "The B10 mandate did not take effect as scheduled because executive branch agencies—as required by law and in consultation with nongovernmental stakeholders—examined the situation and determined that certain regulatory and supply issues were not sufficiently resolved." In 2015, the mandate is supposed to jump to B20. So, if a B2 - B5 blend is optimal, and I have these stickers on my fuel filler door that say NO BIODIESEL!, does that mean I have to drive to Wisconsin to fill up my Treg or void my warranty?

Side note: while all the gas pumps have some signage telling you that the gas has an ethanol component, I haven't seen anything on the diesel pumps saying that there is any ethanol in it.

 

Bio diesel is made by adding a soybean oil product to pure diesel, not ethanol. Most MN diesel stations I know of do have a pump labels stating that the diesel fuel sold at this pump is B5. You can contact the distributor headquarters if their pumps do not have stickers and clarify with them. The B10 or B20 are somewhat my concern too – because I like pure diesel of Premium grade better. As it has been discussed elsewhere on this forum, when similar regulation (B20) was implemented in the State of Illinois, all VW diesel vehicle owners, including Touareg TDI owners, did receive a letter from the VWoA that using B20 is OK and does not void warranty. I expect that this will be done for MN TDI owners as soon as the B20 “advantage of burning even more food for fuel” will become reality in our State, though I hope this stupidity will not happen here ever.

 

Bio diesel is made by adding a soybean oil product to pure diesel, not ethanol.

I'm not sure what you meant by this, but it isn't even remotely accurate. Biodiesel production can use pretty much any biological oil source, from vegetable oil of any kind to animal lipids to certain types of algae. This is reacted with sodium hydroxide and an alcohol , usually methyl, but ethanol and certain higher alcohols work just as well. Pure biodiesel CAN be mixed with petro diesel, but pouring soybean oil into petro diesel will not give you biodiesel, just a thick, unusable slurry of grease.

 

Sorry, misspoke - you are correct, CC, ethanol is only used in gasoline, not biodiesel.

 

Either ethanol or methanol is used in the production of biodiesel. What is critical is getting residual ethanol or methanol out of the biodiesel, by recovery and washing methods, and then thoroughly drying the biodiesel once washed. Lack of doing so is a complete invitation for trouble from crappy biodiesel in your fuel tank. The question is how well or how sloppy and or cheap your biodiesel producer is, as few test their fuel often enough, the testing procedure per batch is quite expensive.

 

Thanks for the help on the fuel door issue.

 

So the new 2014 Ram diesels are B20 compliant, which is the same engine in the Jeep GC.
2014 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel V6 | Diesel Engine Truck | RAM Trucks

The new Chevy Cruze 2.0L diesel is also rated for up to B20.
GM's 2014 Chevy Cruze Adds to Growing List of B20-Ready Vehicles - Biodiesel.org

Audi is bringing over new TDI models for 2014, Mazda has theirs, and recently Nissan confirmed and Toyota is exploring adding a 5L Cummings diesel in their trucks as well.

I run a combo of 4oz of Standayne Performance and 2oz of their Lubricty with my Toureag TDI at every fill, and have been using it on VW diesels for 20 years now. My folks made a trip to northern Minnesota last year in their '09 BMW 335d and my dad swears it seems to run better than it ever has since then.

Where are we TDI (VW, Audi, Porsche) owners going in the next few years with biodiesel? Major cities in Texas have the low emission diesel requirement and it provides for a nice 48 minimum cetane rating, but travel to east Texas or the panhandle, and who knows what you get? Do I have to worry about taking trips to Minnesota or Illinois if they mandate B20?

Texas Low Emission Diesel (TxLED) Program

The TxLED regulations apply to all diesel fuel sold or supplied as fuel for motor vehicles and non-road equipment operating in 110 central and eastern Texas counties.

TxLED must contain less than 10 percent aromatic hydrocarbons by volume and must have a cetane number of 48 or greater, or else must use an approved alternative formulation or comply with the designated alternative limits.

Diesel producers may also use an approved alternative emission-reduction plan to comply with the TxLED regulations.

Diesel fuel producers and importers that produce or import diesel fuel for use in the affected 110 counties are required to register with the TCEQ and submit quarterly reports.

 

Where are we TDI (VW, Audi, Porsche) owners going in the next few years with biodiesel? Major cities in Texas have the low emission diesel requirement and it provides for a nice 48 minimum cetane rating, but travel to east Texas or the panhandle, and who knows what you get? Do I have to worry about taking trips to Minnesota or Illinois if they mandate B20?

Good quality biodiesel is unlikely to negatively impact our motors or fuel pumps. Many forum members prefer a low-percentage biodiesel blend for lubricity purposes. It's that good quality part that is problematic though. Because diesels are only slowly gaining popularity here in the US, fuel throughput at many stations is fairly slow. Biodiesel, when compared to regular diesel, is extremely hydrophilic. Have it sit underground in a tank of unknown quality through a wide range of temperature variations, and you can figure out what's going to happen. Even a small amount of water in the fuel of a high-pressure TDI is going to be VERY problematic, and this is probably the reason for the B5-max mandate. That's why I won't use biodiesel here even as an additive - the only station nearby goes over a month between B20 deliveries.
So back to your question, no, you shouldn't worry, but you should take some precautions. If you have no choice but to get B20, find a station that has very high turnaround. Big truck stops off of interstates tend to flip fuel fairly quickly. Use an additive like Diesel Clean in the white bottle to help remove water. And check your fuel filter for water more frequently, as often as every 6 months, suctioning it out while you're at it.