[siberian]

I thought I would start a new thread on this.

Reading the article that Aircooled pointed to (see thread on Attention all T2 owners) T2 owners need to make sure that they are looking at the correct (long vs short) coding scheme.

T2 owners should check that the code they are reading, however long, the length of the hex string should be an even number. Thus the above code, 0105695, using two digits per hex number is obviously not (it's a decimal value). So this is obviously a code used in T1s.

The Ross-Tech site states, (for short coding):

That if your code is 0105695 and you want to disable the DRLs subtract 1 to get 0105694.

For long coding and based on the aforementioned article and if it had an extra digit to make it an even length of hex bytes, if your coding is 01105695 (note extra 1 inserted in byte 0) you should enter 00005695.

The reason is that subtracting one is from hex byte zero which in this case is 01.

As you can see there's a big difference due to the fact that the short coding dealt with decimal values and the new long coding deals in hex and their corresponding bit (binary) values and of course the length of the values which can be up to 32 bytes long.

siberian

 

[PLO231]

siberian,
You might as well be speaking in Greek...
However, to do my part to help us T2 guys out, I ordered the vag-com.
It should be in my anxous little hands by Wednesday...
The rear fogs are already wired up, so that is my first test.
Also, did you get the DRL option to show in your settings with the new code???

 

[siberian]

PLO231,

You NEED to understand what you are doing and to do that you need to understand binary representations. What parts of what I trid to explain is unclear? The basic underlying issue is:

1) What you see in your long coding is represented by a string of HEXadecimal numbers. Each hex number is represented by 2 "characters". The hex numbers range from 0 to F, meaning 0 to 9 the A=10, B=11, C=12,D=13,E=14 and F=15.

2) The hex numbers can be converted to either decimal, octal (base 8 ) or binary. I presume you know how binary notation is. 1=1, 10=2, 11=3 etc.

3) A byte has eight bits meaning that it has the capability of representing any number between 0 and 127 (2**8 ) -1.

4) Since a single hex "character" can only reach 15, to get to 128 which is one byte or 8 bits, each hex number is represented by TWO characters with a leading zero if needed. Thus the number 1 in hex would be 01.

When you thus need to change byte ZERO (remember strings start at ZERO not one) and bit four from 0 to 1, you need to take your string and if your leading (byte zero) is 23 (hex 23 that is) you need to convert that to bits:

00100011

Since this is little endian (most significan bit is on left) you read that from right to left). Now suppose it says that you need to modify the fourth bit to enable you to turn off the DRLs. REMEMBER you start with bit 0, so the bit you need to change is the fifth bit from the right. You would thus end up with
00110011

Convert that back to hex which is 33. Enter that and append the rest of the 29 bytes of your long coding.

Get it?

No I haven't tried it yet, need to cycle the battery twice as I don't want to end up with a dead laptop half way through.

siberian

 

[siberian]

OK folks the long awaited (partial) answers to man, the universe and beyond (well it could be 42 but it isn't this time).

Here's what I managed to do:

Turn off the DRLs, enable/disable the TPMS, turn off the seat belt chime and enable the rear fogs for when I actually install them (so the latter has not been proven other than the fact that I enabled them).

DRLs and Front/Rear Fog enable. Original code was, for the bytes concerned:

Byte 0 originally was 23 changed to 62
Byte 2 originaly 02 changed to 08

Seat Belt chime DISABLE

Original Short Coding: 0007201
Changed Short Coding: 0005201

TPMS ENABLE/DISABLE Option. Original LONG code for Byte ZERO was:

00 (rest of the 31 byte code is irrelevant - I think)

Changed LONG code on Byte ZERO to:
05 (rest had no impact though didn't try every permutation)

Other codes tried which had no impact on ability to change tire pressure for Byte ZERO:
04
84
85
86
06
05

This is, of course for the T2s. Will play around more later. Aircooled if you can find any one I missed, would appreciate a holler.

Have a weekend or what's left of it.

siberian

 

[VWZach]

Siberian, you sir in fact rock. I am not a tech guy at all. I have not really understood one word you have said. All I know is that you are working to help us T2 guys out and I would like to say thanks. I have tried to get the deal to allow me to disable my DRL and non of them will do it. It is quite annoying.

Anyways, I am assuming your code work has added the DRL cutoff in the menu, or is to just disabling it all together? No biggie to me either way, just looking to clarify.

Next option will be finding a willing person with a VAG in Atlanta

 

[nickm]

Siberian, are you finding that the changes for the T1 also work for the T2 after you translate them into long coding?

 

[siberian]

VWZach, it does not add an item to the menu it simply disables it and removes the green DRL from the dash.

Nickm, sorry I haven't tried any of the other T1 solutions - temps are back to -40 so leaving the garage door open even a crack is... well not recommended.

siberian

 

[aircooled]

This is where having other users contribute codings can be beneficial as we can compare/contrast the different coding options between the vehicles with different options.

Nick, you has asked about coding on the T2 vs the T1. Only a hand full of controlledrs have moved to long coding in the T2. The controllers that have remained in short coding appear that they can use the same code as the T1. As we start to see more scna with options, we may have to revise our list of which controller need long coding.

At this time, the only controllers I am aware of that require long coding are:

09 - Central Electronics
19 - CAN Gateway
65 - Tire Pressure

 

[siberian]

NOTE. Given time constraints, I didn't exhaustively test yesterday. Result:

Do NOT assuming you have halogen lights even with the HID upgrade I performed with mine select XENON. With the new kit my lights didn't flicker but I thought I'd select the option XENON and see. Result?

I didn't test the hi-beams and they are now inoperable generating a bulb fault on the dash. The highs flickered and then simply turn off. When I get home tonight assuming I can convince the CFO to take my car when she goes out I'll revert back and uncheck the Xenon option.

Also, correction, disabling the DRLs DOES indeed place an option in your menu to enable you to turn them on and off at will.

Re. Option 65, tire pressure. There is nothing in there about allowing you to enable the learn and change tire pressure settings. Very peeved... but managed to turn it off and now there is a new item in the menu which allows you to turn the TPMS system on and off which wasn't there before.

Aircooled. Yes, as you can see from the seat belt change I made, those are still short codes which is why I flagged them as such. Again thank you for pointing me in the right direction. More later

siberian

 

[aircooled]

Do NOT assuming you have halogen lights even with the HID upgrade I performed with mine select XENON. With the new kit my lights didn't flicker but I thought I'd select the option XENON and see.

And with a quick coding change back to halogen the problems should be resolved. Now we know. I am in the process of creating a new dedicated VAG-COM forum that we can use to discuss the testing of new codes for the T2. When it's made public, I'll move all of these threads there.

 

[siberian]

Never assume Grasshopper

Thanx Aircooled. I started a new thread on the coding issue but it's clear we need a new structure to ensure codes and tests are easily found. Perhaps as a sub to Technical?

I'll post when I perform the change back which is:

Change BYTE TWO (the third byte as we start from ZERO) from 08 to original code 02

siberian

 

[aircooled]

Have you figured out the Long Coding calculator yet?

 

[siberian]

Yes, thanx! Here's a brief description:

Once you run your initial scan, any subsequent time you use it, the VAG-COM program identifies your label file and loads it automatically. When you get to a parameter which uses the new Long Code, there is an option which is called "Long Code Helper". When you press that, the Lcode.exe program executes and loads that label file which provides descriptions for the options available. There is also a way to update that label file so that as new codes are added or you have your PCM reflashed you can add them (which is why most of the 32 bytes in the long codings are blank at this point). But as I mentioned as soon as I upgrade my warp core and get hold of some dilithium crystals those 00 bytes will become very useful in monitoring critical subspace tachyon emissions

The coder does most of the work for you as you don't need to convert it to binary and back to hex. When you click on each hex number the bit options appear on the bottom. By checking and unchecking them you enable or disable them.

For the short coding you need to actually:

Identify the position of the number (sub-function within the number) then subtract a number or add a number depending on what you wish to accomplish. For example for the seatbelt, the original seat belt warning had code 0007201. I needed to find the right position and subtract 2 from that making it 0005201.

So the long coding is actually simpler though more complex.

siberian

 

[nickm]

Identify the position of the number (sub-function within the number) then subtract a number or add a number depending on what you wish to accomplish. For example for the seatbelt, the original seat belt warning had code 0007201. I needed to find the right position and subtract 2 from that making it 0005201.
siberian

Siberian, trying to learn as we go here so apologies for the dumb dumb question:...how did you know that you needed to subtract 2 for the code?

 

[siberian]

Hey Nickm, that's what the forum is for, to help each other.

How did I know? The Force was with me. No, no kidding I had no clue or guidance but I felt that given the fact that it pointed to that particular number adding wouldn't make sense as you would soon go beyond 9 and each field in the SHORT CODING only has one position, thus it had to be subtracted. That's why I mentioned to PLO231 that you need to understand what you are doing and how this data is interpreted and stored so that by using this knowledge you can infer (when you have no clear direction as in this case) the right operation.

If my previous post wasn't clear please let me know where I can make the explanation easier.

siberian

 

[aircooled]

For short coding help, look here:

Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: VW Touareg VAG-COM Info

 

[siberian]

Yep that's what I used. So if to activate it you add 2, I figured to deactivate it subtract 2.

siberian

 

[siberian]

OK folks, figured out how to change the tire pressure on the TPMS.

Re. hi beams. As I stated earlier do NOT change your halogen settings to Xenon North America if your car came with halogens and you upgraded via a kit to get the HIDs. Enabling Xenons will terminate with extreme prejudice your hi beams.

Now for the goodies. You can change your tire pressure once you enable them in the VAG-COM and disable the preset option. What I was trying to do was I thought you could just spin the wheel for front and rears to select a new pressure. Nah, that would not be Germanic. One had to find a pre-determined way of doing it.

I don't have the code in front of me, but if you go into Drivertrain and select the long coding helper in Coding, there is hex byte I believe if my memory serves me correctly the 3 or 4th hex one which produces a pull down menu. From this you have a choice of selecting for one the front and for another the back. Once you are there, there are predetermined load parameters for full and partial loads (settable in your MFI) expressed in BARS not PSI. I lowered mine from 3.0 or 3.2 bars to 2.8 and I'm showing 39.5 PSI and my alarms went away when I enabled the TPMS system again.

This shows me that:

1) Either my measuring gauge is off (I have one of those dial ones which I use with my compressor

or

2) The TPMS sending unit is miscalibrated due to wide temps variations we get here.

I've not found a single shop who is willing to recalibrate them for a T, so no doubt (hehehe) I will be forced (actual words used with sarcasm by the CFO) to purchase such an implement in order to do my own if and when.

So there you have it. The solution to everything in the universe. Now if I can only convince her to let me put a turbo, shaker scoop... but we'll deal with that tomorrow shall we?

siberian

 

[DenverBill]

The TPMS sending unit is miscalibrated due to wide temps variations we get here.

I have been having the same problem here in Colorado the last couple of weeks with temperatures ranging from the mid-teens to the mid-seventies. Had set it to learn the middle of last month at the average high of 46, so it has breached the high side often lately. Going to try having it learn at 60 or so today and see if it will calm down.

 

[siberian]

Bill, there is no "learn" function that I can find for the T2. Mind you I had very little time to deal with it but there certainly isn't anything in the MFI. The only thing I can suggest unless you have a tool to reset the sending unit is to change the settings in Bars, have it register (by that I mean send it to the ECU) and confirm that the alarm went away by starting the car. Then reset the pressure to what it was before.

Another trick might be to deflate the tire by 8 to 10 PSI and then re-inflate to see whether it wakes up. But in any case be aware that wide temperature variations (sorry Bill but your variations are minimal 8) ) can affect the sensors (we have 50 degree temperature changes in 4 hours). Not much you can do for that other than switch the system off.

I tried some VAR TPMS sensors sold on e-Bay for my D and returned them. I use the little colored caps that show green, yellow and red and those work fine.

siberian