Did the sensor go off or do you just want to do them? If it did not go off I would not bother until it does go off. You have about 2K miles even if it does go off.

 

Same thing happened to me, ordered the wrong front pad set for the single retaining pin caliper, yes those are the ones you need in the link you posted

I purchased mine from a website called the autohauz, they have them cheaper than the link you found them at, here it is, Pagid 7L6698151E Brake Pad Set

 

The sensor has been on for about 500 miles They look like they could go further but not going to push it since I dont want to replace the rotors.

 

The sensor has been on for about 500 miles They look like they could go further but not going to push it since I dont want to replace the rotors.

Sensible decision to do the pads given the light has been on but you really should measure the rotor thickness to see if they are up to running another set of pads.

 

Thanks JoseAB!

 

No problem! Anytime

 

Technically you should replace the rotors, but that being said I did not replace them on the front of my '10 since they did not even have a lip on them. I hope I don't regret it later.

 

My '08 takes single pin 330x32mm rotors, pretty sure yours are the same except for the two pins, the wear tolerance is 2mm, ie. if the rotor is not over 30mm in thickness it needs to be replaced.
I don't think you want to get yourself into a situation where you put new pads on a rotor that is just over minimum, then travel 20-30K miles, you would obviously be under 30mm with partially worn pads........all to save yourself $100 per corner, not worth the worry in my book.
Replace pads and rotors I say!

Tonyb

 

My '08 takes single pin 330x32mm rotors

Tonyb

Strange thing that Tony, I have a car that was built probably within months of yours and is the same drive-line, however I have the pads with dual pins "E" model callipers.

The big lesson is NEVER assume anything with VW!!!

Stuart...

 

The rotor minimum specification INCLUES wear margin.
It is the safe minimum for reuse, not the absolute minimum.

 

I don't think so.

No one would be able to say just how much further the next set of pads would wear the rotors down.

Minimum spec is minimum spec in my book, not a "Ooh I think those worn rotors will do another 60,000 miles with another set of pads."

 

i was able to measure the outside of the calipers thickness at 32.02 MM however there seems to be a lip so im not sure that part would ever wear out and would not give accurate reading. there is maybe 2mm worn off on the lip on each lip on both sides giving a reading of 28.

 

2 MM per sider is a LOT of wear.
I don't know what the minimum is, but I thought someone had said 30mm.

Get a caliper that can measure on the wear surface.

 

what is going to happen if i replace the rear rotors after driving for about a week with the new pads?

i just want to wait till after my FL trip to change out the rotors and pads. but i already put the new pads on the rear. looking at about 600 miles round trip

 

what is going to happen if i replace the rear rotors after driving for about a week with the new pads?

i just want to wait till after my FL trip to change out the rotors and pads. but i already put the new pads on the rear. looking at about 600 miles round trip

If your rotors are fairly flat you will have to let them bed-in a second time.

If yours are well worn, you might need to lightly sand the surface to get them back to reasonable flat.

 

im just going to get new rotors and be done with it

 

The right decision!

Even a few days running new pads on old rotor might be enough to put the old rotor's grooves and blemishes into the new pads' friction surfaces.

 

Yep!

The specification allows for a certain amount of wear to occur before the rotor reaches the end of its service life.

. . . so as long as it above the "Discard Thickness" and does not need to be resurfaced, it is OK to use.

 

Yep!
. . . so as long as it above the "Discard Thickness" and does not need to be resurfaced, it is OK to use.

Indeed, but that's not what you originally said...

The rotor minimum specification INCLUES wear margin.
It is the safe minimum for reuse, not the absolute minimum.

So I'm glad we've cleared that up - if the rotor is down to the manufacturer's minimum, fit new rotors.

On a Touareg rotor, it will be almost impossible to resurface a used rotor given the wear tolerance is so small in the first place.

 

is this what I need?
Volkswagen Touareg Base Sport Utility 3.2L V6 Brake Pad Set by HELLA PAGID Fits: 2006-2007,2009-2013


fschris

Yes, the "E" suffix is the important part...


Stuart..

 

When you are at the minimum thickness or close to it, the rotors are more prone to warpage. If you get a vibration through the brake pedal, then its time to replace both pads and rotors. Just new pads will have to bed into the grooves of the old rotors and that can give you bad feel through the pedal. Why scrimp on just doing the pads and resurfacing.

 

You guys are amazing.
First, there is no difference in the meaning of the specification between Euro and other cars.
Second, the specification is the MINIMUM for reuse.
Yes, a rotor near or at the minimum has less margin for wear than one at the original thickness, but it is still suitable for use, as long as it is at (or over) that minimum specification. (and properly maintained)

If it was not safe for use, they would have increased the minimum specification to provide the margin.

All that aside, rotors are usually well grooved, or at least noticeably wavy across the wear surface long before they get to the minimum. For a DIYer, it is far better to put on new rotors than to have a set machined. Especially since machining cuts through the work hardened surface and increases the wear rate.

As for those of you concerned with warped rotors, these links might be interesting:

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
Warped' Rotors Myth - Correctly Service Brakes: Runout, Disc Thickness

 

I have noticed older generations are more prone to wanting to reuse stuff... newer generations are more likely to replace. however i think i read a good point someplace. back in the day pads were made of asbestos and really soft. i bet those would wear really fast and the rotor would wear only slightly. probably could replace pads for 200K miles before needing to turn a rotor. my father in law was over while i was doing my brakes and he though i was crazy for even wanting to replace the pads.... he was like " these have another 20K miles left on them. also was telling me synthetic oil is a waste of money...no need to use a torque wrench on the lugs... yadda yadda....

 

I have noticed older generations are more prone to wanting to reuse stuff... newer generations are more likely to replace. however i think i read a good point someplace. back in the day pads were made of asbestos and really soft. i bet those would wear really fast and the rotor would wear only slightly. probably could replace pads for 200K miles before needing to turn a rotor. my father in law was over while i was doing my brakes and he though i was crazy for even wanting to replace the pads.... he was like " these have another 20K miles left on them. also was telling me synthetic oil is a waste of money...no need to use a torque wrench on the lugs... yadda yadda....

You calling me "OLD"! Them's fighting words.

You want to see good parts thrown away, have your MB serviced at a dealer.

 

we need a thread or a document that just list out the specific torques needed for the most common bolts/lugs