Hello, I am in trouble with my 04 Touareg, do anyone know where to fill on the a/c system? there is no cold air coming anymore.
A/C problem
TouaregRoggi
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Dunno. Maybe one of the gurus here can shed some light...
I have an 04 V8 Touareg and the a/c keeps going out on long trips. It runs fine at first but then when the day heats up and its been going for 3 hours or so it stops blowing hard or cool. I have already taken it to the dealer 2 times for this and they seem to think it needs refridgerant to the tune of $200. And the vehicle is under a VW Platinum extended warranty, but somehow I still owe $$$. Any clues what it could be or how do I find a dealership that knows what they are doing??
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5,766 Posts
Take it to any A/C shop (assuming you don't do it yourself) and fill it. If after a while it returns to present condition you may have a leak which can be pinpointed with a leak detector. 200 bucks... hmmm... I don't think so.
siberian
siberian
A/C troubles on 2006 V8
Same symptoms, A/C only blows hot hair, checked fuse box but not sure I am looking at the right stuff:
on the left
- SB7 - Aerial selection...
- SB39 - Air conditioning system relay
- SB55 - Air conditioning system relay...IS EMPTY and does no t have he fuse connection
on the right
- SC23 - Climatronic control unit - has a 30 A fuse vs a 10A as I have 09.2004 manual edition
- SC25 - Operting and display unit for rear cliamtronic
They all seem fine, next step is the dealer trip unless omenoe can tell me other basic checks to do. I do not have VAG-COM.
Thanks
Alex
Same symptoms, A/C only blows hot hair, checked fuse box but not sure I am looking at the right stuff:
on the left
- SB7 - Aerial selection...
- SB39 - Air conditioning system relay
- SB55 - Air conditioning system relay...IS EMPTY and does no t have he fuse connection
on the right
- SC23 - Climatronic control unit - has a 30 A fuse vs a 10A as I have 09.2004 manual edition
- SC25 - Operting and display unit for rear cliamtronic
They all seem fine, next step is the dealer trip unless omenoe can tell me other basic checks to do. I do not have VAG-COM.
Thanks
Alex
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1,318 Posts
if you have lost pressure you must clear codes before a/c will run. Fill with 124a and reset, system will run. Put in some dye to find the leak.
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1,318 Posts
That will be 134a for freon. The best places will check for bad gas, Texas is bad for using propane.
A/C not working
Siberian,
you will have to be patient with me but I am in France with my US Touareg so my dealer of choice is a few thousand miles off.
- To measure level and pressure I need to buy a gauge I guess, could you point to where I can find directions to the two measuring point (pictures would be ideal)?
- to trigger the A/C compressor while I am in front of the engine I just press "Econ" and then de-press it? If that is the way I could not hear any difference, what kind of noise from wher should I hear, just an RPM increase from the engine?
I understand this is basic stuff, thanks for the help...
Alex
Siberian,
you will have to be patient with me but I am in France with my US Touareg so my dealer of choice is a few thousand miles off.
- To measure level and pressure I need to buy a gauge I guess, could you point to where I can find directions to the two measuring point (pictures would be ideal)?
- to trigger the A/C compressor while I am in front of the engine I just press "Econ" and then de-press it? If that is the way I could not hear any difference, what kind of noise from wher should I hear, just an RPM increase from the engine?
I understand this is basic stuff, thanks for the help...
Alex
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1,023 Posts
yanez 69 - you should really invest in Vag-Com cable/software and can then see the fault codes...even if you get a gauge, you'll likely need to clear the codes before the compressor will turn back on to check pressure. You also need the A/C running to add freon.
Also, in my 2007 V10 the A/C stopped working a couple of years ago not due to low refrigerant but due to a temp sensor that was not calibrated correctly...so when you parked in a garage and then drove in to summer heat the temp difference triggered a fault and would not allow the compressor to run. Clearing the faults let the a/c run fine again. There was even a TSB on this and the fix was not to replace the sensor but to turn it off. I used Vag-Com to erase the fault code and programmed the sensor to off. All has been good for last couple of years....
There may be other code readers that can clear the codes too but Vag-Com is one of the best and most useful in my opinion.
Also, in my 2007 V10 the A/C stopped working a couple of years ago not due to low refrigerant but due to a temp sensor that was not calibrated correctly...so when you parked in a garage and then drove in to summer heat the temp difference triggered a fault and would not allow the compressor to run. Clearing the faults let the a/c run fine again. There was even a TSB on this and the fix was not to replace the sensor but to turn it off. I used Vag-Com to erase the fault code and programmed the sensor to off. All has been good for last couple of years....
There may be other code readers that can clear the codes too but Vag-Com is one of the best and most useful in my opinion.
The only one worth the money Ross Tech.
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5,766 Posts
x2
You should hear the compressor click on and off when you turn it on. Best bet is take it to a a/c shop because you really need to know what you're doing around those high pressure circuits...
Pour plus de details fait moi signe en prive
siberian
You should hear the compressor click on and off when you turn it on. Best bet is take it to a a/c shop because you really need to know what you're doing around those high pressure circuits...
Pour plus de details fait moi signe en prive
siberian
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743 Posts
AC dye is not a problem. NEVER put that sealer stuff into your AC system. That stuff is essentially epoxy in a can and will turn an inexpensive repair into a very costly one when it inevitably does not work.
R134 has to be pretty precise in terms of amount or you will see a big decrease in ability to cool. Much less wiggle room than the R12 systems.
If you do not have the proper gauges, scales, vacuum pump, AC work is best left to the pros. Certainly, if you can not distinguish high side from low side, don't mess with it. A really bad idea to simply tap a can and "top off" your system. You can put too much in there and significantly shorten the life of your compressor.
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311 Posts
Ok, I'm going to hijack this thread as I'm kinda tired of looking through older topics without finding some sort of answer haha. I have a similar however different swing on the A/C not working issue to discuss with you all today.
I was out running around here in NC just the other day and we happened to have a nice beautiful 80 degree day out and I decided to kick on the A/C.... well it wasn't 80 but it couldn't have been real far off.
Blows nice and strong and I have had the blower motor itself replaced not all that long ago and here's where the problem comes in.
Decided to swing it by my local guys who do my tires, oil, general stuff for way way cheaper than the stealership and if they don't know what they're doing with something particular involving the Trex they tell me and they won't work on it which I appreciate.
Anyways, their A/C guy hooked it up and the results were that the freon level was fine however the low side pressure was pegged out. And in his experience almost always means there is something in the system plugged.
Their book called for a 10 hr maintenance to replace the A/C component kit and that they weren't willing to take on that commitment for this particular vehicle.
I'm ok with that for now... but I'd like advice and input from you all on if there are any other routes I could possibly take for a solution.
Has anyone had this particular issue yet, and how was it resolved? Care to share what the check came to for the repairs? etc. etc.
I will most likely be getting another opinion in the very near future from another shop before I engage the dealer who will want to charge me at least $100 just to pull it into the garage.
I was out running around here in NC just the other day and we happened to have a nice beautiful 80 degree day out and I decided to kick on the A/C.... well it wasn't 80 but it couldn't have been real far off.
Blows nice and strong and I have had the blower motor itself replaced not all that long ago and here's where the problem comes in.
Decided to swing it by my local guys who do my tires, oil, general stuff for way way cheaper than the stealership and if they don't know what they're doing with something particular involving the Trex they tell me and they won't work on it which I appreciate.
Anyways, their A/C guy hooked it up and the results were that the freon level was fine however the low side pressure was pegged out. And in his experience almost always means there is something in the system plugged.
Their book called for a 10 hr maintenance to replace the A/C component kit and that they weren't willing to take on that commitment for this particular vehicle.
I'm ok with that for now... but I'd like advice and input from you all on if there are any other routes I could possibly take for a solution.
Has anyone had this particular issue yet, and how was it resolved? Care to share what the check came to for the repairs? etc. etc.
I will most likely be getting another opinion in the very near future from another shop before I engage the dealer who will want to charge me at least $100 just to pull it into the garage.
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311 Posts
Forgot to mention incase it matters, my truck is an 04 V8.
Thanks all,
Ziggy
Thanks all,
Ziggy
Joined
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743 Posts
Just rereading this thread. So much bad information that it is scary.
AC dye will not harm your system. All AC shops use it. Sealant is another story, NEVER put that stuff in your car or you will turn an inexpensive repair into a very costly one.
Do not invert the cans. Doing so charges as a liquid rather than gas. You risk "slugging: your compressor by charging with liquid refrigerant unless you have a machine designed for that purpose.
You should not just "top off" the system. Overcharging can result in costly problems. You need to evacuate, vacuum, and recharge. You can not measure how much refrigerant remains in the system by pressure readings.
Note that you can not legally vent refrigerant into the atmosphere, it needs to be recovered.
While Walmart will sell you a fancy can with a low pressure gauge attached, low pressure alone will not tell you much. You need to measure low and high and then use a refrigerant chart based on ambient temps.
AC dye will not harm your system. All AC shops use it. Sealant is another story, NEVER put that stuff in your car or you will turn an inexpensive repair into a very costly one.
Do not invert the cans. Doing so charges as a liquid rather than gas. You risk "slugging: your compressor by charging with liquid refrigerant unless you have a machine designed for that purpose.
You should not just "top off" the system. Overcharging can result in costly problems. You need to evacuate, vacuum, and recharge. You can not measure how much refrigerant remains in the system by pressure readings.
Note that you can not legally vent refrigerant into the atmosphere, it needs to be recovered.
While Walmart will sell you a fancy can with a low pressure gauge attached, low pressure alone will not tell you much. You need to measure low and high and then use a refrigerant chart based on ambient temps.
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