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Sparky1983

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone and thank you in advance, this is a great firum and has helped me with any issue ive had so far. However, I cannot find in the search the exact same problem ive been having this past couple of days.

It started yesterday morning, temp was around 3*c so not extremly cold but the coldest morning of the year so far (and the coldest since i bought the treg 4 months ago). Opened the car up, jumped in and pressed the keyless start button. All the lights in the dasj sprung to life doing their usual thing but the engine did not turn over. I tried a couple more times without any luck. Left the car about 15 mins and came back to it and it started up straight away!! I assumed it was just a small electrical glitch that has rectified itself do I used the car all day turning it off and on 4 times with no problems.


Then that evening, I drove 4 miles to pick my wife up from work, pulled into the carpark and turned iff the ignition while I waited. When I went to start the car the same thing as the morning happened. All lights, radio etc on as usual and car going through the normal check on airbags, abs, glow plug etc but did not turn over. I can hear a loud click noise coming from a black electrical pack attached to the battery in the boot (trunk). Tried the turning key left for a few seconds and the right to use the aux battery to start but it makes no difference. Also pulled the fuse 41 and disconnected the battery in the rear and the negative terminal for the battery under the seat-still no difference. Im stumped!


I have the rear battery taken out and I will get it tested today. However, I noticed there is a sticker on the side of the battery saying "recharge November 2014!" It also is only 820 amp and not a dry battery as I would expect in the cabin.


I was wondering could this be a Kessy issue? The doors lock unlock as usual, the light around the keyless start button illuminates as i get in (so it must be recognising the key?!) and the black buttons on the door work as normal. I have already put a new battery in the key incase this was the problem but no luck.


Any help would be much appreciated as I am at a lose here. Thanks again
 
did your clocks reset?

Try to start it with the key next time it does that. Hold the key in the starting position. The ecu will then use the other battery to start the car.

Can you get a VCDS scan?
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
V10

I have been trying the key using the aux battery method and holding it to left for a few seconds and then tryingbto start but no luck. Also tried holding it to the right gor a while but still nothing. It isn't even trying to start, just a loud click from the rear battery.

The little green brake pedal light goes out when I press the brake so I assume that is working fine.

Thanks for the fast reply guys. This has me stumped here. Really love the car so hope it's nothing too serious.
 
does your clocks reset? if yes, replace BOTH batteries. If not, get a VCDS scan.
 
a generic scan won't help. Only a VCDS scan will be accurate as to where to start digging.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Got a VCDS scan done there. A number of faults showed up but the technician was more concerned with an EEPROM fault that could not be cleared. Would this fault prevent the enginh from turning over (cranking)? The mechanic has it now but can't give it a full look over until next tue! He is going to try and jump the starter to see if it is the problem and to see if the engine is able to be turned manually as I have read a horror story here with a V10 just stopping and it turned out to be a seized emgine due to a gear cog failure. I hope it is something less drastic.
 
turn the engine by hand (spanner/ratchet/bar). Not with the starter!
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I didn't have a set of spline sockets (3 square) to turn the engine by hand when it was still with me. The garage has it now so will wait the outcome on tue when they check it over. Will keep you informed when I hear back from them. Thanks
 
Always thought it requires an engine drop...but would be great to know how if the starter can be removed some other way
 
How the fxxk did the mechanic get the stater out without removing the engine?

regards
Drag
That was my thought too when I read the post but then I thought I'd read about someone else achieving "the impossible" and I must admit I thought it was you!

Who else has posted on the V10 starter on here recently - or was it someone on mytreg?
 
How the fxxk did the mechanic get the stater out without removing the engine?

regards
Drag
I can be sceptical at times but would be the first to applaud someone that had done this but being one that has removed and replaced the starter and knowing the issues even with the engine out i am a disbeliever.

Look at the photos showing the position of the starter behind the turbo, under the ex manifold and locked in by the engine mount.

Then look at the photo with turbo removed, engine mount removed which needed the manifold to be removed first and even then i had to take out an exhaust stud. Even then the steel tube that the starter power cable run in is in the way of the lower starter mounting bolt, let alone the top mounting bolt that comes thru from the transmission side behind the turbo and the cats.

Sorry no way

regards
Drag
 

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Discussion starter · #16 ·
Thats what the garage has told me. I thought it required an engine drop also, so was very surprised (and pleased) to hear they managed to get it out without doing so.

When I go to collect the I will try and get talking to the mechanic that done the job. All i was told on the phone was that he had a lot of stuff to remove to get access but didn't drop the engine. Im glad as Im hoping this will keep the cost down.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Update number 2! Visited the garage this morning to check on progress! Turns out it wasn't the starter. It was sent off the be checked and it's working fine. The alternator/generator is now the suspect as both batteries have low voltage. It's now been sent off to be refurbished.

Was talking to the mechanic that worked on the car to ask how he removed the starter without dropping the engine. He is it was a pain in the a**! But he did indeed successfully do this as i've seen it myself.

He had to remove the drives, manifold, and support the engine with a hoist to remove the engine mount. He used long extensions to get access to bolts and it has worked!

The car is currently on the lift with engine still in situ and the starter removed! He is reinstalling the starter today and hopefully he will have the alternator/generator back tomorrow and fitted! A lot of hours on this one so im still expecting a hefty bill! :(
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
So finally got a call from the garage after nearly 3 weeks with the car. Total cost is ÂŁ1760 ( about $2,800) total 40 hours labour plus parts. Thats Christmas this year cancelled. Does anyone think is a bit steep just to replace an alternator? I know the part was ÂŁ500 but over ÂŁ1200 in labour seems excessive. Im still not convinced the problem has been solved but time will tell. Going to collect the car today.
 
No. You bought a 10 year old car with a supercar engine. Unsurprisingly they can run up supercar bills.

If you want a prosperous New Year, sell the car.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
The annoying thing is, I could have changed it myself if they had told me that was the fault when they diagnosed it. I left it with them to find the fault and when I called a few days later they had already it stripped down and parts ordered.

Oh well, lesson learned. I may buy myself a VAGCOM kit for future problems.
 
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