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paulie0735

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello, very disturbing issue with the Rline yesterday afternoon. I pulled up in the garage at home and touched the stop/start button but the engine kept running. The dash shut down and everything else appeared normal, i could lock the car and walk away but the engine remained happly running in idle mode. I tried every possible cenerio but nothing worked. I had to touch the start/stop button to reactivage normal ignition mode so that the radiator fans would run while I worked through the problem. Very lucky this happened to me and at home in the garage and not to the wife at work. I even called the RACV but according to the service tech that came they had never seen the problem before, the two of us tried for over an hour to kill the damn thing but nothing worked.
During this i established that VW Aus haven't bothered to include any information re fuses panels and diagrams in the owners manual which infuriated me at the time. They basicly say in the book that they can't be bothered updating the book for different markets so to contact your dealer for more information, really!!! Why am I not surprised.
In desperation the RACV tech just kept pushing the start/stop button (maybe 30 or 40 times) and the engine stumbled once then when he pushed the button again it shut down. In total the engine was idling for about 2 hours.
This morning I had a mate come over and we did a scan with his VAC COM and the car threw 15 fault codes mostly around the cruise control and collision avoidance system. We cleared all the fault codes and all appears to be back to normal now. Car is just out of warranty so im not expecting any assistance from VW Aus despite the car being serviced by them during the warranty period, even though I'm qualified and capable of doing that myself.

So, the lesson from this is that I'll be visiting the local dealer and getting the fuse locations and diagrams so i can have them in the car for future reference, for the record there is very little on the web re this model and i wasn't able to find any info other then the fuse box at the A piller which doesn't have anything in it re the engine or fuel system. What i wanted to do was find the fuse for the fuel pump relay but I couldn't find it, hence the need to visit the dealer to get the locations and diagrams so i can kill the power to the fuel pump if it ever happens again. I was actually in the process of removing the front passenger seat so i could disconnect the battery when the tech got it to shut down.
 
Wow....that is a very concerning experience.

Interestingly, the other day, we went thru a similar hunt for the fuse panel diagram and pulled up less than satisfied, but managed to resolve our issue.

Paulie...any chance you can scan and post here, the diagrams that VW will hopefully provide for you?

Also, in regard to warranty, if you have had youre car serviced at dealerships throughout the warranty period, then VW OZ would generally come to the party in respect to significant issues, especially when so soon after warranty has expired. If they don't, Australian Consumer Law will kick in to protect you, as expected useability vs warrantable period offered by manufacturer are 2 different values, and Aust Consumer Law will err on the side of expected life useability.
 
Thanks for sharing your experience. I am trying to think what went wrong and could again.
I don't think it's specific to Rline though.
So when the starter button didn't work did you try the key? I mean insert the key and switch it off? that didn't work either?
Thats what I would have done, followed by removal of related fuses or simply remove the connection from the battery, very easily accessible. Would have taken just a few mins.

On most vw and other makes as well there isn't a fuse card which is absurd but for such cases there's always an easy way.

There's more info here and people who would help you rather than some roadside techie hacking into the starter button.
How's your key fob battery? When last was it changed?
Any previous accidents, damage?
How's the dpf? Do you do short or long runs so dpf can easily regen?
 
I had a similar issue with fuses when VW Oz said that the auto elec who had installed the brake controller had put them all back in the wrong positions and charged me for an hour and a half of labour to put them back in the right spots. (I wish I earned that much an hour.) The trouble being that they couldn't show me the right spots! There were no pictorial records of fuse placement anywhere. I have now got lots of photo's of the fuse panel from lots of different directions, in case of future issues.
 
That is really odd as i would have said it was the start button faulty but seeing it shut down the dash it will be some sort of ECU communication issue i would think.

If it happen again best way to shut it down would be to pull the connector off the drivers side fuel rail i have circled in the attachment.
It is located at the front on top of the rocker cover at the front on the drivers side.
This will instantly dump the fuel pressure out of the rail stopping the engine with no fuss.

regards
Drag
 

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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Wow....that is a very concerning

Paulie...any chance you can scan and post here, the diagrams that VW will hopefully provide for you?
Thanks Steve, you're right it is concerning. I spoke to 2 local dealers myself today and another in Sydney via a contact in the new car industry. The dealer in Sydney was the most helpful, they claim they have seen one other case and the main ignition switch in the dash was the culprit, they tell me much of the dash needs to come out to replace the switch. However I wasn't able to talk to their techs directly so I'm not totally convinced we were talking about the same symptoms and problem?

Getting a copy of the fuse locations and related info is so far proving very difficult, which quite frankly doesn’t surprise me. One dealer told me that they needed the car to run a scan so they could get the fuse details and that was going to cost me for their time! I have two issues with that.
1: I don't understand why they would need me to book the car in when they have the info in their data base with my VIN as a reference?
2: They couldn't tell me how long they would need to car to retrieve the information, so they could charge me what ever the *&^% they wanted just to give me the fuse details and justify the bill with time spent on the car!!

As a (heavy vehicle) mechanic for 40+ years that makes no seance at all to me. What it does reinforce in my mind is that they are only interested when they can book their time at $165/hour, other then that they couldn't be bothered. It a shame really because I had a great relationship with my VW dealer for many years but they have changed hands now and the new owners and staff just don't care anymore. Such a great car, such a great shame VW don't back it up with a little after sales service.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
That is really odd as i would have said it was the start button faulty but seeing it shut down the dash it will be some sort of ECU communication issue i would think.

If it happen again best way to shut it down would be to pull the connector off the drivers side fuel rail i have circled in the attachment.
It is located at the front on top of the rocker cover at the front on the drivers side.
This will instantly dump the fuel pressure out of the rail stopping the engine with no fuss.

regards
Drag
Thanks Drag, that is useful. I have printed that off and will hang on to it, hopefully I'll never need it though. :)
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Looks like I may have finally got to the bottom of this, after lengthy discussions with various contacts in the trade the general consensus was that there may have been a bad earth somewhere in the car, so with absolutely zero help from VW Aus re fuse locations and diagrams I just went looking for earth links, started at the head lights and finished at the tail lights, I did find a couple that looked a little corroded and one in particular at the main terminal block near the battery that was quite loose so I'm going to assume this was the culprit. I did a full scan after cleaning and tightening the links and found 3 codes like the ones I cleared originally, that was on Wednesday, this morning I did another scan and got zero faults so It looks like it may be ok now. I will monitor this over the next few weeks to see if any codes come back. But I'm fairly confident this is now sorted out.
 
Good to see you that you apparently found the fault mate.Must have been a little frustrating I bet
 
Looks like I may have finally got to the bottom of this, after lengthy discussions with various contacts in the trade the general consensus was that there may have been a bad earth somewhere in the car, so with absolutely zero help from VW Aus re fuse locations and diagrams I just went looking for earth links, started at the head lights and finished at the tail lights, I did find a couple that looked a little corroded and one in particular at the main terminal block near the battery that was quite loose so I'm going to assume this was the culprit. I did a full scan after cleaning and tightening the links and found 3 codes like the ones I cleared originally, that was on Wednesday, this morning I did another scan and got zero faults so It looks like it may be ok now. I will monitor this over the next few weeks to see if any codes come back. But I'm fairly confident this is now sorted out.
Hi Paulie,

Seems you got the issue resolved but I'm curious as to why you felt you had to tackle the problem yourself as I assume your car (2017) is still under warranty??

TonyB
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Hi Tony, the car is MY17, 1st registed October 16. I have no faith in VW Aus warranty anyway. I've spent around $250k on VW product in the last 10 years being a R36 Passat, Mk 6 Golf R and the Touareg Rline and until buying the Touareg I've been happy with the after sales service (evident by my return purchases) but i can honestly say I will never purchse another VW.
 
I'm bringing up an old thread here but I had the same problem tonight. I rang the RAC and the mechanic had never heard of a car not stopping. We spent about three hours trying to work out the best way to stop the Treg so that he can look at it in the morning.

I found this thread, tried the 'push the button many times method, and it worked. We had beer, talked for a while and now I've got something to follow up on when I return home.

Thanks for the post. 😃
 
Why can't you just open up the flap under the seat to disconnect the chassis ground and kill everything?
I mean, that would be my go to if I had a vehicle that didn't want to obey my commands!
I didn't know you could do that and neither did the mechanic.
 
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