Tahoe has one posted here: Replacing Front Rotors and Pads
Front Brake DIY
spockcat
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Tahoe has one posted here: Replacing Front Rotors and Pads
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NorthVan, where are you getting your parts from? I got all my stuff from VM AutoHaus out by the Costco in Burnaby. Tell Kristian Martin sent you and he'll probably give you a deal. A bit of a plug for these guys but they're really good and deserve one once in a while. They sell all OEM stuff just without the ridiculous $tealer markup.
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Cool, do you have a web address, or phone number for these guys.
I would love to check them out.
Ed
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Cheaper than Alretta? I paid a little over $700 for a complete front and rear kit including all the sensors and the tools to remove the caliper bolts.
Depends on where you are. These guys are a 10 minute drive from my house so after shipping and exchange rate they are definitely cheaper than $700USD. I've also been dealing with them for over 7 years so they give me a nice discount that keeps me coming back. I paid just under $700CDN for all 4 rotors, pads, 4 sensors and some other small misc stuff. The only thing I didn't get was the rear caliper removal tool. Their return policy is great too; I didn't need the rear rotors so I went and exchanged them for a V10 grille (had to pay the difference of course) even though the box for them was long gone.
The whole crate of parts wieghed a tonne though so I'm not sure how much shipping would be to the Windy City. =)
The whole crate of parts wieghed a tonne though so I'm not sure how much shipping would be to the Windy City. =)
Martin -
I went to their site, but under brakes they list three wheels for sale, and nothing else.
Zimmerman is aftermarket for the Touareg, not OEM, and the Vancouver based clients I've sold all tell me that the local sources like the dealers charge a fortune, more than $2200CDN for a four wheel brake job. Sure, taxes and brokerage fees are a hassle, but my clients still see themselves saving a small fortune over other options. And a delivery to Blaine Wa. is a close by solution for additional savings, too. The USA is only 20 miles away from you!
I am actively seeking additional sources of top quality replacement brake pads to provide more choice in the upper range of friction options. I will let everyone know as soon as something comes of this, but low dust carbon metallic friction that lasts longer than the OE is a clear choice.
Regards,
Geoff
Geoff,
Admittedly their site isn't the best and you can't order online like you can with a lot of places but I don't have an issue with dropping them a phone call or an email to get my order ready. The stuff I buy from them all comes in VAG boxes unless I specifically ask for a aftermarket part (more common with the Corrado than anything...). Your clients are right, every other place charges through the nose for any import parts, that's why VM is my little needle in a haystack.
I've only heard good stuff about Alretta and I'm sure you provide a great service and great pricing. But as hard as it may be to believe (kidding
) there are other places that do as well. That's the beauty of competition.
For those of us north of the border car parts are one of the many things we get shafted on. I bought a timing belt tool long ago for $16 and paid over $20 in duties and taxes... crazy!
Admittedly their site isn't the best and you can't order online like you can with a lot of places but I don't have an issue with dropping them a phone call or an email to get my order ready. The stuff I buy from them all comes in VAG boxes unless I specifically ask for a aftermarket part (more common with the Corrado than anything...). Your clients are right, every other place charges through the nose for any import parts, that's why VM is my little needle in a haystack.
I've only heard good stuff about Alretta and I'm sure you provide a great service and great pricing. But as hard as it may be to believe (kidding
) there are other places that do as well. That's the beauty of competition.For those of us north of the border car parts are one of the many things we get shafted on. I bought a timing belt tool long ago for $16 and paid over $20 in duties and taxes... crazy!
Hi Everyone. Would y'all mind if we revisit the "torque specs" question again?
I did my front brakes this weekend and observed that one needs specs for the following:
1. Rotor retaining bolt (holds rotor on spindle flange; torx head)
2. Brake pads retaining pin bolt
3. Caliper bolts
4. Lug nuts
Could someone with a manual or other authoritative source confirm the proper torque specs for these four fasteners? Wouldn't hurt to have it all summarized in one place anyway.
Note: Yes, I've researched, but not completely clear. From various sources I've found:
1. Rotor retaining bolt (torx head):
- Per Phagus (vwvortex): "the bolt that attaches the rotor to the wheel hub is torqued to 15 Nm according to bentley (item #2)."
This seems reasonable, maybe even a little low. Mine came off with barely any effort. All the bolt does is hold the rotor on the spindle flange when you take the tires off. While driving, the five lug bolts hold everything together.
2. Brake pads retaining pin bolt:
- Per Tahoe12 DIY, "pad retaining pin bolt - 30 nm = 22 lbs"
This seems completely reasonable.
3. Caliper bolts:
- Per Tahoe12 DIY and cited elsewhere on ClubTouareg: "Also, For the rear caliper, it is 111 ft-lbs torque for the caliper to mounting bracket, plus a 90 degree turn: this is according to the Wagner website. They list the same specs for the front as the above site does."
[Note: So, these specs for front also??? No "above site" listed]
- Per Phagus (vwvortex): "...the HEX BOLTS that are supposed to be torqued to 270Nm are the two pins that hold the calipers in place (they run across the calipers and attach the calipers to the carrier). they are item #4 in the bentley drawing. they HAVE to be tightened to 270Nm, no doubt about that."
Okay, 111 lb/ft is a reasonable torque spec for a bolt of the size of the caliper bolts. 270Nm (199 lb/ft) seems way high! That's an immense amount. Earlier in the vwvortex thread (VWvortex Forums: DIY Brake Replacement) Phagus says, "Hex head bolt on wheel bearing housing to 270 Nm."
Now, 270Nm (199 lb/ft) is reasonable for the spindle nut - that would be entirely appropriate. But, I think if you tried for basically 200 lb/ft on the caliper bolts you'd likely snap them off!
Same with the rest of the first quote - the 90 degree turn part. I mean, once you've torqued the bolts to 111 lb/ft, they're screwed in about as far as they can go. Turning them another 90 degrees I daresay would be almost physically impossible. Again, you'd likely snap them off.
(I speak from long experience as a ham-hand bolt snapper. I've spent more hours drilling out bolts than I even want to think about - sigh...)
From experience on other brake jobs, typically caliper bolts tighten somewhere in the 100 lb/ft range. But, I stand ready to be corrected if an authoritative source says otherwise.
4. Lug nuts:
- Per 'henna gaijin' on vwVortex: "Correct wheel bolt torque is 160NM or 118 lb/ft."
Works for me. I just tightened them by feel, but I guess I'll go back and give 'em a proper spec torque now.
Also:
Large nut holding on spindle - referred to as "Hex head bolt on wheel bearing housing" in vwVortex thread; Tahoe12 DIY calls it "Hex screw holding on rotor". Makes sense that this nut would be torqued to 270nm/199ftlbs, but not necessary to remove this for a brake job.
Anyway, not trying to offend or question anyone's statements. Just trying to confirm the specs on items 1,2 and 4, and make sense of the conflicting information on the caliper bolts. Thanks!
I did my front brakes this weekend and observed that one needs specs for the following:
1. Rotor retaining bolt (holds rotor on spindle flange; torx head)
2. Brake pads retaining pin bolt
3. Caliper bolts
4. Lug nuts
Could someone with a manual or other authoritative source confirm the proper torque specs for these four fasteners? Wouldn't hurt to have it all summarized in one place anyway.
Note: Yes, I've researched, but not completely clear. From various sources I've found:
1. Rotor retaining bolt (torx head):
- Per Phagus (vwvortex): "the bolt that attaches the rotor to the wheel hub is torqued to 15 Nm according to bentley (item #2)."
This seems reasonable, maybe even a little low. Mine came off with barely any effort. All the bolt does is hold the rotor on the spindle flange when you take the tires off. While driving, the five lug bolts hold everything together.
2. Brake pads retaining pin bolt:
- Per Tahoe12 DIY, "pad retaining pin bolt - 30 nm = 22 lbs"
This seems completely reasonable.
3. Caliper bolts:
- Per Tahoe12 DIY and cited elsewhere on ClubTouareg: "Also, For the rear caliper, it is 111 ft-lbs torque for the caliper to mounting bracket, plus a 90 degree turn: this is according to the Wagner website. They list the same specs for the front as the above site does."
[Note: So, these specs for front also??? No "above site" listed]
- Per Phagus (vwvortex): "...the HEX BOLTS that are supposed to be torqued to 270Nm are the two pins that hold the calipers in place (they run across the calipers and attach the calipers to the carrier). they are item #4 in the bentley drawing. they HAVE to be tightened to 270Nm, no doubt about that."
Okay, 111 lb/ft is a reasonable torque spec for a bolt of the size of the caliper bolts. 270Nm (199 lb/ft) seems way high! That's an immense amount. Earlier in the vwvortex thread (VWvortex Forums: DIY Brake Replacement) Phagus says, "Hex head bolt on wheel bearing housing to 270 Nm."
Now, 270Nm (199 lb/ft) is reasonable for the spindle nut - that would be entirely appropriate. But, I think if you tried for basically 200 lb/ft on the caliper bolts you'd likely snap them off!
Same with the rest of the first quote - the 90 degree turn part. I mean, once you've torqued the bolts to 111 lb/ft, they're screwed in about as far as they can go. Turning them another 90 degrees I daresay would be almost physically impossible. Again, you'd likely snap them off.
(I speak from long experience as a ham-hand bolt snapper. I've spent more hours drilling out bolts than I even want to think about - sigh...)
From experience on other brake jobs, typically caliper bolts tighten somewhere in the 100 lb/ft range. But, I stand ready to be corrected if an authoritative source says otherwise.
4. Lug nuts:
- Per 'henna gaijin' on vwVortex: "Correct wheel bolt torque is 160NM or 118 lb/ft."
Works for me. I just tightened them by feel, but I guess I'll go back and give 'em a proper spec torque now.
Also:
Large nut holding on spindle - referred to as "Hex head bolt on wheel bearing housing" in vwVortex thread; Tahoe12 DIY calls it "Hex screw holding on rotor". Makes sense that this nut would be torqued to 270nm/199ftlbs, but not necessary to remove this for a brake job.
Anyway, not trying to offend or question anyone's statements. Just trying to confirm the specs on items 1,2 and 4, and make sense of the conflicting information on the caliper bolts. Thanks!
Some extra pics to compliment those already available:
1. A view of the torx-head bolt that holds the rotor on the spindle flange. (Note: You DO NOT need to take off the big nut in the center of the rotor!)
2. I used a drift punch to push the pads retaining bolt out (for whatever that's worth)
3. Used a small screwdriver to pry the "tang" back in the brake sensor connector clip, then just tapped straight down. Clip slides off of the stationary male end (top) through the bracket and drops off.
1. A view of the torx-head bolt that holds the rotor on the spindle flange. (Note: You DO NOT need to take off the big nut in the center of the rotor!)
2. I used a drift punch to push the pads retaining bolt out (for whatever that's worth)
3. Used a small screwdriver to pry the "tang" back in the brake sensor connector clip, then just tapped straight down. Clip slides off of the stationary male end (top) through the bracket and drops off.
Attachments
Well, I can say that the 111 lb-ft of torque plus 90 degrees is for the rear caliper triple-square mounting fasteners only. Also, the front mounting fastener is 199.
Balance I will defer to someone else. These specs are much discussed over time and are posted by Wagner Brake within certain literature they provide.
Regards,
Geoff
Balance I will defer to someone else. These specs are much discussed over time and are posted by Wagner Brake within certain literature they provide.
Regards,
Geoff
Kevin -
Wagner maintains a website for my use that has these kinds of specs for all vehicles they sell parts for or even catalog. So it is not unusual that a brake parts manufacturer should offer these bits of data. One needs them to install their parts!
Further, Wagner publishes for the professional mechanic a guidebook annually of the past 25 years worth of this data as well as specs on rotors and drums for the service professional to resurface components.
Pad break-in is a bit of an art. These brakes are post cured, so should not require any particular break-in, but to be sure you can make several stops from 40 miles an hour to 10 and back again as long as you do not keep your foot on the brakes after the vehicle has come to the point you want. Do not do this around any traffic or congested conditions as material transference can occur if you sit on the pedal too long after stopping your motion. So on, then off, etc. Get the brakes reasonably warm in the process. That's it, really.
Hope this answers your inquiry,
Geoff
Wagner maintains a website for my use that has these kinds of specs for all vehicles they sell parts for or even catalog. So it is not unusual that a brake parts manufacturer should offer these bits of data. One needs them to install their parts!
Further, Wagner publishes for the professional mechanic a guidebook annually of the past 25 years worth of this data as well as specs on rotors and drums for the service professional to resurface components.
Pad break-in is a bit of an art. These brakes are post cured, so should not require any particular break-in, but to be sure you can make several stops from 40 miles an hour to 10 and back again as long as you do not keep your foot on the brakes after the vehicle has come to the point you want. Do not do this around any traffic or congested conditions as material transference can occur if you sit on the pedal too long after stopping your motion. So on, then off, etc. Get the brakes reasonably warm in the process. That's it, really.
Hope this answers your inquiry,
Geoff
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Here is a new link to be added to the top of the post: Replacing Front Rotors and Pads
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Just wanted to add another link as an option for the Front Brake kit for a 04 Treg.
Front Vw Touareg Brake Kit - Vw Touareg Brake Rotors and Pads
Front Vw Touareg Brake Kit - Vw Touareg Brake Rotors and Pads
Just replace front rotors last night with the help of the good information on this forum. I did want to add an additional step not mentioned that may save some from kinking or worse yet, cracking the solid brake line. I pulled the allen head bolt that holds the brake sensor/brake line clip. There is a transition from solid tubing to flexible tubing at this point. You can then move the caliper around more freely without fear of damaging the brake line.
Geoff, zimmerman might be aftermarket but they are very good aftermarket.
My fronts lasted 55k and had less then 1 mm wear.
My rear brake set up still looks like new after 55k with zimmermans and hawk lts pads.
reason I replaced the fronts was due to a vibration.
I handsanded the rotors and the vibration was gone but the new pads did not fit good due to some scoring so I put new rotors on it too.
total on a new front set was $300.
Part I have been impressed with the most are the hawk pads
If you are looking for top quality replacement pads, start carrying the hawks.
very low dust, awesome brake feel long lasting and very gentle on the rotors.
Get your own treg out of the garage and slap them on. you will know what I mean once you use them
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Hi Everyone,
I'm approaching 50k on my 2006 V6 Treg. I knew I was getting close to needing to do my breaks and was going to DIY pads, rotors and sensors with the info I have learned on this board.
I had the Treg in for an oil change at my local VW dealership and they told me it was time for breaks and gave me a quote for pads and sensors only? When I asked about the rotors they said that VW does not replace rotors unless they are starting to rust or have worn beyond the acceptable limit and they do not turn or surface them, just put new pads on them as is? They said I should be able to get 80k to 100k on the original rotors? Does this sound right?
I'm happy to save the cost of rotors but I have always replaced pads and rotors on my other cars?
James
I'm approaching 50k on my 2006 V6 Treg. I knew I was getting close to needing to do my breaks and was going to DIY pads, rotors and sensors with the info I have learned on this board.
I had the Treg in for an oil change at my local VW dealership and they told me it was time for breaks and gave me a quote for pads and sensors only? When I asked about the rotors they said that VW does not replace rotors unless they are starting to rust or have worn beyond the acceptable limit and they do not turn or surface them, just put new pads on them as is? They said I should be able to get 80k to 100k on the original rotors? Does this sound right?
I'm happy to save the cost of rotors but I have always replaced pads and rotors on my other cars?
James
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