a friend of mine has been contacted by a 2010 Q7 owner who wishes to utilise VCDS to recode his ECU with the new serial number.

Does anyone know of this process, why it needs to be done?

It's the first I have heard of such a requirement. Is the Q7 CANBUS/ECU/Electrics that different to our Touareg?

Thoughts?

Not sure about the recode question but the VCDS is fully compatable with Audi products


regards
Drag

 

I found this while searching for Q7 at Ross tech
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A8_(4E)_Battery_Replacement

 

Information received from the Q7 owner:

...there have been a few threads about batteries "dying" very quickly and irreparably at around 4 years (just as mine). The electrical management system then registers the battery as defective. If you just put a new one in, it will also 'die' quickly as the computer thinks it's still the defective one. Punch in a new serial number (even a spurious one) and voila, your new battery works perfectly. It's so consistent, it smacks of contrived maintenance on the part of VAG and their dealers. Quote from Audi Perth for new battery is $750.00, which I'm refusing to accept.

There are some Audi forum links that I am waiting to receive to further enlighten this issue.

***update***
http://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-q7-66/q7-battery-reprogram-192047/

http://www.city-data.com/forum/automotive/2087116-audi-q7-maintenance-cost.html

Thanks Ewic33, your research certainly confirms the findings of our Audi 'cousin'.

 

when replacing the battery, just keep the car supplied with 12 Volts and you avoid recoding the battery management module.

 

I think this tread is talking about two different battery issues and they seem to be treated as one which is causing some confusion, to me at least.

As I see it one issue is if you don't maintain power to the vehicle during a battery swap you may need to recode, (re-enter) personal preference such as radio and blue tooth settings etc. which you may lose unless the device has it's own internal battery supply or is maintained by an outboard power source.

The other issue is that you will need to tell (recode) the battery management module that a new battery has been installed so it optimally charges the new battery and not use your old (dying) battery's charging paramaters, from reports this is done via VCDS by keying in your new battery serial number.

I must admit that when I did my battery swap 8mths/30Ks ago I did put outboard power to the car but I didn't update the module, so far I have had no issues.

I see there has been some discussion on the subject on the Audi forums. com and Ross-Tech has a procedure for doing this on an Audi A8 on their website but I would like to know if anyone on this forum has actually done the battery recode on their Touareg as I still could do the recode on mine if required.

I think collectively we need to put this issue to bed once and for all and not have this uncertainty on the subject floating around.

TonyB

PS, does anyone have access to the VW service procedure for a battery change? Does it say to do a battery recode?

 

I have changed the battery twice now on my V6 and on neither occasion did I maintain 12V and I have never had any problems with the radio or anything else and nor have I needed to reprogram anything.

 

For the T1, there was no battery coding necessary. AFAIK that is true for the later years also.

 

Was told the same while picking up a new battery, but it was at an Audi dealer. Tech seemed sure recoding the battery management settings was still necessary and indicated a replaced battery would still be fine, but would not be getting charged fully which leads to premature failure.

 

Right, the newer VAG products use a battery coding process to maximize battery life.
Follow the Ross-tech Wiki.

 

Hi Igibson. I know that Audi is doing this.

Do you know what model year the Touareg started using battery management? If you don't know which year it started, can you tell us which years you have seen it installed in.

 

You can view the Ross-Tech DIY video for battery coding on their YouTube channel:

If you read the comments below their video, they indicate that the current gen Touareg uses BEM coding.

 

So it is T1 = No Battery Management and T3 = Yes Battery Management?

T2 owners, can any of you confirm if you have or don't have this?

 

Based on Ross-Techs comments shown under that video, it's the current generation (t3) that use BEM. I checked my 2014 and it uses the UDS gateway as described in the video.

 

Looks like it is the T2 onwards which is, of course, actually the current generation Touareg since our so-called forthcoming all new T5 will be the T3!

 

Ah, I just found this thread. I've got a 2010 (T2) in which I replaced the battery twice now. Both times was a brand new battery from the dealer. The original one was rock solid until approximately 2015, the first replacement lasted only 2 years, and the second replacement which I replaced under warranty (so it cost me $100 once pro-rated), after 1 year it barely turns over after sitting over a long weekend. I thought maybe it was a short somewhere, or poor ground, as the charging voltage looks fine.
I've got a VAG-Com, so can anyone with a T2 Touareg confirm that this is a recommended task for a T2? Any tips or advice?

 

My current understanding is the VCDS is only required for the 2011 and up T3.

Check your engine grounds. We have had several reports in the last year of batteries not charging, and the solution seems to be to replace the ground wire between the engine and the frame. When it goes bad, the current to the starter is impaired, and the charging circuit gets confused and does not fully charge the battery. A double whammy!

 

Do you have a P/N for the ground wire(s)? I get slow starter speed whenever the engine is cold. Even in summer it spins slowly and takes longer than expected to start. New battery made no difference.

 

Start here: http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/t2-battery-charging-issues-275441.html

As far as the cable, you just need a short battery cable with the ring ends on it. You can try to clean up and reinstall the old one, but once they start to corrode, the best thing is to replace them. Or, if you wish, you can clean and leave the old one and put a second ground wire in place.


You could get a factory part or just use something like this. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...p/autocraft-battery-cable-switch-to-starter-4-gauge-24-black-ac135hs/11142547-P