You probably already know this but the generator you've got is no longer made and I believe it may not be being remanufactured either.

So you if you have to fit a new genny you will need the adaptor kit as well to get it to fit.

If you do manage to repair it yourself please take some pix along the way.

 

They're not available new, but they are being reconditioned.
I called VW parts today and got quoted $1100, plus $275 core deposit, plus clutch. This was for a reconditioned Delphi unit.

 

You beat me to it! I went out for a few hours and came back to revisit your problem and I see that the Delphi is indeed being remanufactured.


The reason I came back to this thread is that I felt sure I recalled someone getting a local workshop to repair their generator quite cheaply but I can't find the damned post/thread.


If he doesn't join in on this thread I suggest you ping a PM to dragline1750 - he's in your neck of the woods so to speak [what's a mere 450 miles in Oz!].

 

Hey nooby its dragline 1570 not 1750.

 

I downloaded all the manuals from erWin last night so I'm ready to go.... at least until I find some obscure tool is required.
I have a set of triple hex so I'm at least one step ahead.

It's also super cold in Melbourne at the moment.

 

I think I've found the common number. LT744
Doing some video and image searching, I found some images showing Porsche, VW and Mercedes sharing this number on a Delphi 14v-190A unit.

The search continues...

 

Good luck, it will be interesting to see what you find also if you can get the parts you require. if and when my alt stops working i would rather repair it than fit the alternate one with the fitting kit.

 

So far I've found two variants of the regulator for Mercedes. It seems the only car manufacturer I can find reference to.

1. (DE1650) Voltage Set Point 14.3V B Circuit With Soft Start Over voltage, under voltage lamp OE compliant ASVR technology
2. (DE1750) Voltage Set Point 14.9V B Circuit With Soft Start

Do we have any idea what the voltage set point is for VW?
14.9 to suit AGM batteries?

 

Some sort of success I think...

This site directly provides a result when searching for the Delphi part number on the VW Alternator (10480494)
https://www.dts-belgium.be/en/alphasearch/index/searchcallcode/callcode/10480494/

It also cross-references the Mercedes part number I've previously found repair kits for, which is another bit of a win.

Pretty confident to find an actual supply source now

 

Here's hoping your persistence will pay off!

 

me too.
I'm a believer of "if it can be fixed, I can do it too I just need to find out how"

It's just a shame VW try to close information and parts like this away from the DIY.

 

I did mine a few months ago. First I bought just a regulator. For me (2006) it was the most difficult job I’ve done in 40 years of wrenching. So when I finally got the unit out I was not gonna take any chances on it being more than just a regulator. Returned the regulator, bought the rebuilt from VW along with a new overrun clutch, coupler and seal. Even with the special seal installer tool I ruined the first seal and had to order another. I found the torque to stretch fuel rail bolts had crumbling torx heads. Bought a special Mercedes T 30 (?) for fear of rounding out the heads and being dead in the water. The oil filler is a real PITA with rear facing torx heads and very little clearance to the egr. I had to shorten bits to reach several bolts, especially the egr. Be careful not to lose the bushings stuck in the feet of the generator. Order 2 new seals for the water pipe connections. Stuff the valley full so you don’t drop anything down there, never to be found. Good luck!

 

Update on this...
I have finally pulled the alternator. It's taken me a lot longer than expected. Good thing I have a back-up car.
Long hours of work, limited free time, and a heap of cold/flu through the household don't make a good recipe.

Anyway, it is out now.
Short story is I won't be proceeding with the rebuild. I'll be getting a reco unit.
While I was able to find part numbers, finding somewhere to purchase them from proved difficult and the ones I did find ended up expensive once international postage was included.
The cost saving to rebuild myself only ended up being about $400, (A mate was able to get trade price) and for that I figure why own the risk myself.

Inspection showed very stiff rear bearing and subsequently very worn housing, seized one-way pulley, front bearing no good, brushes worn down to nubs, slip rings likely to wear through very soon, and minor contact between the rotor and stator.
(video of rear bearing play in housing: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-9UCB3DIVFXNRqkmI2Dni72PqAgB3GUZ)


Getting to this point I've discovered the wonder of Slovakian wiring subjected to heat cycles....
Wires to the alternator are very stiff so I will probably pull back the loom a bit and replace these.
Wires to fuel water sensor have crumbled requiring repair.
Glow plug rubber boots are all broken (interestingly one glow plug was not connected, yet didn't throw a code)

O-rings to the EGR and shut-off valve will be required on the drivers side thanks to a previous 'repair'.

Incidentally, EGR and PCV are getting canned after seeing the crud inside the manifold. Yuck!
(Video scraping some gunk out of a port: https://photos.app.goo.gl/4cfGFsmPw3YxcUoP7)

 

Slow slow updates....

Finally got it all back together last night.

In between the last update and now...

• I went to purchase a reco from VW but the reco'd Delphi unit that was available had been sold, and only option was to change to the Hitachi unit. This was going to tally up to about $2,000 even at mate's rates.
• I ordered a reco unit from Germany which turned out to need some work once received. (plastic bushing to rear bearing was sloppy and bearings had been damaged during 'reconditioning'

I ordered bearings from a local place for about $30 and swapped them. Much better. I then took it to a local alternator repairer to bench test it before putting it back in the car. All good.

Re-installation was slow going as I'd not documented things as well as I would have liked, but between the photos I took and the Erwin manuals I got through. I also was treading very carefully to ensure I didn't have to do anything twice.

• I taped up the glow plug harness to contain the crumbling split conduit so it didn't end up in the cylinders while replacing the intake manifolds.
• EGR is blanked
• CCV is in place for the moment

I tried to do multiple key on/off to prime the fuel filter but it didn't seem to work so I dragged the laptop out and did the vcds prime procedure.
On first cycle I heard a lot of bubbles return to the tank.
It still took a few cranking cycles to start but once the fuel made it's way to the rails properly it fired up and hummed perfectly immediately.

Most importantly, volt gauge is pegged at 14v.
I will confirm actual with multimeter later.

I've got a good lot of photos of the re-assembly steps. I will upload later.

So happy to drive this to work today. Forgot how much I loved it. All worth it.


And finally, only 2 spare bolts. one I know is not used this time, and the other is not important but I will re-install later.



Only thing remaining is to do an upper cylinder clean to clear the last of the sludge out of the intake ports.

 

Hello Peoples,

I know this is late, but found this site for replacement parts for both Delco and Hitachi

http://www.metroautoinc.com/Download/Water%20Cool%20Parts%20for%20Delco%20&%20Hitachi%20&%20Valeo.pdf

I hope it helps.

 

Ended up buying a new unit, $600,- Getting the intakes and all other parts cleaned by the local shop. Bought 10 new Glowplugs. Two where bad according to VDCS and DVOM measurement results. Figured at 198000 miles the others will be going bad soon. 26 bucks a pop worth the investment. EGR cooler and all that crap are leaving this will help keep the tracks clean and help keep the Alternator cooler also.
Opted for the DarkSide EGR delete kit. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co....uk/products/darkside-5-0-v10-tdi-phaeton-touareg-egr-delete-race-pipe-kit.html

Since I live in a county in AZ where there is no emission testing, I figured good time to do it. Of course, we will save the parts just in case we move.

I am looking at installing the following kit, Universal ECS Tuning Baffled Oil Catch Can Kit (8oz)

Or making my own out of some 2.5" PVC tubing with baffle build in and screen material for the oil to hit. But the kit above is not too pricey and looks professional
Thoughts on this are appreciated.

Cheerio,

GvK

 

Ended up buying a new unit, $600,- Getting the intakes and all other parts cleaned by the local shop. Bought 10 new Glowplugs. Two where bad according to VDCS and DVOM measurement results. Figured at 198000 miles the others will be going bad soon. 26 bucks a pop worth the investment. EGR cooler and all that crap are leaving this will help keep the tracks clean and help keep the Alternator cooler also.
Opted for the DarkSide EGR delete kit. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co....uk/products/darkside-5-0-v10-tdi-phaeton-touareg-egr-delete-race-pipe-kit.html

Since I live in a county in AZ where there is no emission testing, I figured good time to do it. Of course, we will save the parts just in case we move.

I am looking at installing the following kit, Universal ECS Tuning Baffled Oil Catch Can Kit (8oz)

Or making my own out of some 2.5" PVC tubing with baffle build in and screen material for the oil to hit. But the kit above is not too pricey and looks professional
Thoughts on this are appreciated.

Cheerio,

GvK

Thanks for this thread dutchboypower. I have been reading with interest. The Darkside EGR delete unit looks nicely made but comes with the qualifier that reprogramming is needed to inhibit EGR functions and alarm silencing. This would be necessary with any EGR delete of course (not just the Darkside method). Have you considered how you will get this reprogramming done? Keen to understand what you're doing there.

Pete.

 

Hi Crispy3, I know that Malone tuning offers EGR delete. TuneZilla
But I am also curious since the EGR is a PWM signal, why would I not be able to keep the EGR motor connected and just place it somewhere in the engine compartment.
The ECU still would see the EGR as being connected? But I could be barking up the wrong tree.
Some more research is needed. But for now, getting the runners back and the other gaskets and seals plus alternator will be first priority. I am thinking about installing a true oil pressure gauge also since the sender is easy to get to now the valley is nice and clean and open. Ahh so many things, but fun for sure. This engine is a masterpiece and yes it has been costly as with all Tregs I think. I towed my Allroad Audi with it when we moved, dude Treggy loves towing.

GvK

 

Hi Crispy3, I know that Malone tuning offers EGR delete. TuneZilla
But I am also curious since the EGR is a PWM signal, why would I not be able to keep the EGR motor connected and just place it somewhere in the engine compartment.
The ECU still would see the EGR as being connected? But I could be barking up the wrong tree.
Some more research is needed. But for now, getting the runners back and the other gaskets and seals plus alternator will be first priority. I am thinking about installing a true oil pressure gauge also since the sender is easy to get to now the valley is nice and clean and open. Ahh so many things, but fun for sure. This engine is a masterpiece and yes it has been costly as with all Tregs I think. I towed my Allroad Audi with it when we moved, dude Treggy loves towing.

GvK

I have deleted the EGR on my 04 V10 and there is no code, i think only the later models need to be deleted with tuning

 

When I deleted my EGR on my 04 V10, it threw a code. Interesting how most 04's don't throw one, yet mine did.

 

Yes but that is typical VW LOL. Mine is a 2008 so I know it will throw one for sure. But that being said it is a Touareg.

 

Between the side 7zap and Jim Ellis website. Life does not get any better. Thank you 4epikanini

Original catalogs of auto parts.

Spare parts catalogs on foreign cars. Search by vin. Spare parts for any brand of car.

7zap.com

VW Parts - Jim Ellis Volkswagen Parts Department

Shop Jim Ellis Volkswagen and save on OEM Volkswagen parts. Discount prices and fast shipping on Genuine Volkswagen Parts.

www.jimellisvwparts.com

Attached the partial bill, without new Alternator $500 and parts cleaning, which came out at a cost of $139
Also, my EGR delete is getting close to home.

Yes, I am pretty stoked.

 

Hello Touareg folks,

A quick update on my EGR delete. After much work and new parts, the delete is done. What a difference in the engine room. Just want to reroute some wires to make it nice and neat.

Engine runs great and I was going to get the DPF delete pipes from Buzzken in Canada. When one morning the low oil pressure warning came on. So spent some time checking pressures at both the sending unit and the front driver cylinder block. Did an oil and filter change also. Currently, I show 0 bar at 80C or 176F at idle. At 1000rpm, pressure climbs to. maybe .5 bar. I believe at 1000rpm requirement is 1.4bar never to go over 7bar.

If this reading is correct the whole engine should be rattling and knocking, at least I would believe soo.
I removed the gauge from the hose and oil is flowing pretty good. But flow and pressure are to different things.

Short of dropping the lower pan and extracting the pump, I was looking into running an engine cleaner for 10-15 min at idle. But this is a highly discussed topic and slippery road.

I will post pics of the engine after the delete tomorrow.
In the meantime, if there are thoughts, please share.

Kind Regards,

 

Screw in a pressure gauge & check it there, cheaper to be sure😉

 

Update, does anybody know where the oil galley plugs are located?
When I hook air pressure to the oil sending unit connection I hear air coming from the oil filler tube.

I do not think this is normal?
I might be barking up the wrong tree.

Cheers,

 

Okay, Folks,

After doing multiple oil changes and filters. Including Moly-Lube engine flush.
I connected my Motec device with a bosch pressure sensor since I use these devices for my job testing cars and know they are calibrated. My readings are 0 bar at idle and .5-.7 bar at 1000rpm which does not increase no matter what the rpm is. If looking at the realtime data graph the response is quick from 0 to .7 but does not increase any further. At drop, throttle returns back to 0bar quickly

The connection was at the original oil sensor. Even at the front of the cylinder heads, I get the same pressure readings.
Short of removing the engine and oil pump is there somewhere I could check.

GvK

 

Hi guys - being an older thread I hope someone could answer? For those having done the Alternator extraction from the V10 what are some of highlights to watch for and my big question of how many hours was involved getting it out and back in?

 

i've done the v10 alternator myself one time. i dont remember how long it took, just that i was able to do it. highlights to watch for, make sure you buy a ton of new gaskets for everything you have to remove. it's not that bad of a job honestly i'm not a professional mechanic and i used basic hand tools. you got this