[marshatherton]

I guess I'll have to try that. Isn't there a ground going from the HU to the harness?? Where is that going to?

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[Ionman]

There is a ground going from the original harness, into the HU, which grounds to the frame behind the molding. I removed the molding to grounded my other devices there for universal tracking purposes, which I had to upgrade the screw and further widen the amount of bare metals.

However, this doesn't mean the grounding from the new HU utilize the same grounding path. My 2001 Santa Fe new HU did the same screwed up job. I've purchased a universal conversion hardness for the '01 Santa Fe to up-converter to the new HU. Same whining issue. I traced the grounding wire from the new harness, spliced it, and ground to the same grounding path as the old harness. Problem solved. However, there was another issue which I also discovered after I've upgraded my 95A factory alternator with the 140A OEM. Same whining noise, but this time around, it was my amp that got affected. Rather than grounding to the thin metal on the body, I ground to the frame of the body. That solved it. Before I grounded to the frame, I did the same thing with the isolators, suggested by the stereo installers. Didn't like the outcome of my crisp and loud audio that my wife loved, which deafened the rest of the family.

 

[deh2002]

I guess I'll have to try that. Isn't there a ground going from the HU to the harness?? Where is that going to?

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Ground it like I did in the pics I posted. Or take the ground coming from the hu harness and go straight back to the dash support that runs behind the plastic that holds everything from going in all the way.

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[marshatherton]

Ground it like I did in the pics I posted. Or take the ground coming from the hu harness and go straight back to the dash support that runs behind the plastic that holds everything from going in all the way.

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Good idea.

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[deh2002]

Wrapped piece vs the wood.


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[marshatherton]

I like it. Did you do it yours?

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[deh2002]

I like it. Did you do it yours?

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Yes, that is mine. I hope it all turns out this well. Only parts I have left to do are the door panel pieces and the ashtray sliding cover.
The door pieces are proving a little difficult to take off. Next warm day I'll do more and probably wrap it all up finally.
Still planning on buying a 5 channel amp and replacing the front door speaker's and rear tweeters.

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[deh2002]

The 2 pieces after finished

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[Edward47]

No power from canbus

Anyone know which wire i can tap into from Ignition ACC side, to power the red lead from canbus?
I have a Xtrons and was working fine 2 days. I think the canbus is bad now. There is no power
out of it at red wire. Yellow has 12V. (at the plug going into radio)


This is temp until i get new canbus



2005 Touareg

Thanks
Ed

 

[marshatherton]

Anyone know which wire i can tap into from Ignition ACC side, to power the red lead from canbus?
I have a Xtrons and was working fine 2 days. I think the canbus is bad now. There is no power
out of it at red wire. Yellow has 12V. (at the plug going into radio)


This is temp until i get new canbus



2005 Touareg

Thanks
Ed

What's an xtrons?

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[Ionman]

Anyone know which wire i can tap into from Ignition ACC side, to power the red lead from canbus?
I have a Xtrons and was working fine 2 days. I think the canbus is bad now. There is no power
out of it at red wire. Yellow has 12V. (at the plug going into radio)

This is temp until i get new canbus

2005 Touareg

Thanks
Ed

Ed, is the vehicle's CANBUS gone bad, or the CANBUS translator/negotiator from the HU gone bad? HU CANBUS unit can be replaced easily. Vehicle's onboard CANBUS is a bit trickier.


If the red wire coming out of the HU's CANBUS unit is dead, best to contact the manufacturer for a quick replacement to remedy it. However, if you have a circuit checker, check the red power lead coming from the wire harness coming from the HU, just before it connects to the HU's CANBUS unit. If that power source is dead, it's the HU itself, and not the HU's CANBUS unit.

 

[Sir Byron Laurent]

You can do a fuse tap from the fuse box on driver side and just run it over since you are using it temporarily.

 

[Edward47]

Its the HU canbus that has no power from the red wire. The HU is fine as I checked it on 12 volts.

I want to see if I can jump the canbus and use HU untill I get new Canbus from Hong Kong !!
Power from HU canbus is a yellow wire off of big plug.
Have old radio in now and is working fine.

 

[Edward47]

xtrons.com/pcd76tgva-7-android-6-0-marshmallow

ebay or google . plug and play!!!
worked on all speakers out of box.

 

[Ionman]

Its the HU canbus that has no power from the red wire. The HU is fine as I checked it on 12 volts.

I want to see if I can jump the canbus and use HU untill I get new Canbus from Hong Kong !!
Power from HU canbus is a yellow wire off of big plug.
Have old radio in now and is working fine.

As SirByron indicated, you can tap into the fuse box using a blade fuse tap as a temporary mean, without compromising any other electrical load that is going into the HU itself. I have it for my forward dashcam. Aside from that, rather than tapping into the existing power load of the HU, how about vampire-splicing the power from one of the 12V cigarette lighter/12V accessory ports, since it has a 10A fuse like the HU? They are much closer to the HU than the fuse box as well. Make sure to tap into the 12V port that turns on with the key, and not constant live feed from the battery.

 

[Edward47]

You think i can tap off new harness that plugs into car?? I have canbus + and a - that i think will work?
Rest of wires are yellow Power, Black, and speakers. I have those quick tap things. I tryed the fuse box idea, but power always on !!

 

[Ionman]

You think i can tap off new harness that plugs into car?? I have canbus + and a - that i think will work?
Rest of wires are yellow Power, Black, and speakers. I have those quick tap things. I tryed the fuse box idea, but power always on !!

I have a blade fuse adapter that connects to the cabin's mini-fuse boxes. Depending on which fuse you're after, the power is dictated by the pre-wiring and operation. I used the TPMS fuse, since I disabled it to get rid of that annoying dashboard error display. Now, I use it for the dashcam. It will only power on when the key is turned to ACC/ON, without the engine on. Once the key is removed, the power is cut to that fuse.

But, your wire tappers-splicers/vampire taps will do the trick to tap into the accessory plugs nearby. (+) can connect directly to the power line, and (-) can connect to the vehicle's frame or onto the (-) of the accessory plug line. I prefer the frame to prevent grounding looping issues.

 

[Edward47]

I did check all the fuses and they all have 12Volts. Even with key removed.
Even the TPMS.( all 3 fuses) I do not have that option. That would send power to radio full time.

 

[Ionman]

Now, that's odd. Have you test the power coming into the 12V accessory ports (cigarette lighter ports) when the key is out vs key is turned to ACC/ON? Is there active power going into that? If no power is sent to one of these ports, use it. If power is constantly on even when the key is out, something is really odd.

 

[Edward47]

I'll check now !!