I'd say do it. Replace the filter as well. With the proper fluid, how could it end up worse?

 

Replace fluid and filter at dealer. Do not use indy as they just told you (more or less) that they have no clue what they are doing.

VW originally said "lifetime fill." This has changed as my dealer now tells me to change around 80 to 100k miles.

I had to replace my valve body (and obviously fluid and filter) to the tune of $2,200 because I waited too long...but now shifts like butter...on my 2007.

Serviced my 2008 V8 at dealer too for fluid change and filter and now also shifts like butter.


Preventative maintenance is always cheaper than repairs...my two cents.

Oh, I also tow a bit over 7k and found the fluid (per dealer) to be ok, with no material debris or burning signs. The transmission is pretty good quality...if taken care of.

 

It sounded like OP was going to do it himself. With the correct fluid, filter and procedure, he should have no problem completing on his own.

 

Ah, right you are Scuba, needed to read more I guess. Still doesn't change the fact that it is good to change fluid and that I wouldn't use that Indy for this if they have been having problems...because I haven't read of many.

I think Indys are a great alternative for most things...dealer is better for some, and if you know what you are doing and have the proper tools, doing it yourself is the best because no one will treat your car / truck like you will yourself.

 

I agree there is nothing but upside from fresh fluids. The proper fluids threads are interesting to say the least. Seems like a good quality synthetic 75/90 gear oil will be fine for the diffs. As it is only one bottle of ATF for the transfer case I will get the OEM.
GermainAutoParts.com has everything for the trans service, fluid, filter, and gasket for $114.
I will pick up two Harbor Freight hand pumps, one for ATF and one for gear oil.
I do not see any issues.
Thanks guys,
Mike

 

X2 (or is it 3 or 4?) on changing the trans fluid.

Also, if you have the REAR locking differential, make sure you use the VW spec'd fluid there, too.

 

Seems to be quite the debate of diff oil. I do have the rear locker but most threads find no spec difference between locker and open. Certainly not opposed to using OEM fluids if they are the best option.

 

I just recently did both diff's and transfer case, I used Ravenol. Front diff oil TGO 75W-90 GL-5, for locking rear diff's MDL(multi disc locking) G 052 196 A2. I'm soon going to change trans fluid. I put mine on o lift and opened fill port, stuck my finger in pulled some trans fluid out. The viscosity was a litt!e thin with a faint burnt smell so it is time, I have 125000 on the clock and tow a work trailer or a boat. My mechanic/friend,his lift, said fluid was ok but was time to change it out. I too have read all the threads on the subject and am confident about doing the change and not worried about the transmission not operating as it should when I'm done. Oil doesn't last forever, I think the V10 would love some new granny fluid

 

Transfer case oil TF 0870, ( G 052 515 A2, G 055 015 A2, G 052 536 A2)

 

Get the car nice and hot so you get a good drain of the old ATF.

 

Not a V10, but I have a T2 TDI with the center locker. Had all driveline fluids changed at around 80K miles and it's driving perfectly 20,000 miles later. I don't tow, but I do offroad it.

 

No. In "sealed for life" I trust. Yet replaced ATF twice. I was not going but I had to do, because the gasket was found leaking.

 

...You do recognize the irony...?

 

Hey, sometimes luck is with those who do nothing. Just listen to this guy:

I love the parts about the timing belt and the oil being self changing.

 

Hey, sometimes luck is with those who do nothing. Just listen to this guy:

I love the parts about the timing belt and the oil being self changing.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0jiM7z1fURE

Medic! Medic!

Nooby just saw this and he....

Medic! Medic! Medic!

 

I also recommend the transmission service. After doing the transmission service on my Treg, it shifts much smoother. It was the first time it had been done with 115,000 miles on the ODO. You will need a VagCom, or a transmission fluid temperature gauge when filling the ATF in order to refill the correct amount. Also, Toyota Type-IV ATF fluid is exactly the same fluid as the VW at a 1/3 of the price. Two separate fluid pumps is not necessary, you can use denatured alcohol to clean the transfer pump.

Here is a list of the parts I used and their part number:

Item -- Part Number --- Quantity

Transmission Filter -- 09D-325-435 --- 1
Transmission Filter Gasket -- 09D-325-443 --- 1
Transmission Filter Bolts -- WHT-000-322 --- 3
Transmission Pan Gasket -- 09D-321-371 --- 1
Transmission Pan Bolts -- WHT-000-326-A --- 16
Transmission Fill Plug -- WHT-000-206-A --- 1
Transmission Fill Plug Washer -- 09D-321-181-B --- 1
Transmission Drain Plug -- WHT-000-323-A --- 1
Transmission Dain Plug Washer -- 09D-321-379 --- 1
Toyota ATF Type IV -- 00279-000T4-01 --- 9
Differential Fill & Drain Plug -- 0AA-409-057 --- 4
Mobil 1 75w90 Differential Fluid -- 104361 --- 3
Transfer Case Fill & Drain Plug -- 0AD-301-115-A --- 2
Transfer Case Fluid -- G-055-515-A2 --- 1

Here is a How To/DIY, its for a Cayenne but its identical to the Touareg.
http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/CayenneTransmission.pdf
The transfer case and differential is a straight forwards process, and there is a DIY on this forum (photos on page 5)
http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/diff-oil-and-transfer-case-oil-change-37385.html

 

Materials are trickling in, Waiting for a call from local VW dealer on the "specific fluids" for the transfer case and rear locker. They had the gear oil but not the ATF.
Thanks everyone, I got exactly what I asked for once again!

 

Spent the day yesterday doing the entire drivetrain service. I would call it a typical DIY, had a few issues with accessing a couple of the pan bolts, but worked through it. Everything else was pretty straight forward.
The only difference in driveabitlty seems to be quicker to downshift off acceleration, more engine braking which is fine by me.
All of the information provided was helpful. I went with the VW fluids for the transfer and rear diff w/locker. Motul for the front diff and Toyota ATF for the tranny.
Thanks again for all of the help!
I also replaced the brake fluid while I was dirty and had all of the tools out!

 

And you have done a gearbox reset too?

 

I found the comment about Toyota ATF being the same at the VW stuff interesting. I noticed that the 8-speed has a different fluid. Having spent a significant amount of my VW-sorry-about-that Visa card on 9L of G055540A6 for the 8-speed transmission, I was wondering if there might be an equivalent for that fluid. I am set for my first fluid change, but it would be good to know if there is an option for subsequent changes.

 

Nooby, he got 25 years out of his last car and he only did 7 oil changes in that quarter decade. I found the vehicle on you-tube, so you can check it out.

 

Isn't Niner the lead singer in this group? Anyways, great post, I love it!

 

Ok , First post on the Touareg forum

We have a 2014 Touareg V6 sport 114000 miles. So far really love the car. Very quiet and nice performance and in really nice condition. It was a one owner car and all service has been done at proper intervals. We had our German auto mechanic go over it and check for any issues. Other than an intermittent brake wear light everything was great. Brakes had plenty of pad left and rotors were good, so not sure whats up there.

Question??
I realize trans(Aisin 8spd) is a fill for life but I would like to do a drain and fill. My mechanic checked all fluids and didn't seem at all anxious for me to have it changed. I believe most of the miles are highway/commute, but I still would like it changed. From this tread I get the feeling a drain/fill is in order. What should it cost for this service?

 

A couple of pics of our new to us 2014

 

No idea on your local costs, but do change the diff oils too and then you should be good to get to 200K.

 

Dealer list price for the parts is $500. On-line you can find the same stuff for closer to $300. If the dealer does the work, figure another $500 for labor, based on what I've seen posted here.

 

Pretty sure dealer labor is going to still be than 500. While I have a different year, my 2008 was around $6## parts and labor. My 2007 was $2,200 for the same service PLUS the valve body. So a general drop and change should be someplace between 600-800 in my opinion (parts and labor and USD at dealer).