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Stripped Lower Oil Drain Plug

67K views 109 replies 39 participants last post by  rinaic  
#1 ·
Hello all,

My wife and I purchased a used 2004 Touareg with 39k miles on it from my local Toyota Dealer on 10/07. My wife found this site and since the Touareg is her car she wanted to know as much information as possible. My wife suggested that we post this information for all to view and maybe help.

We have been into our local VW dealer for 40k service and now for 50k service. At our 40k service she was told that the drain plug had been torqued harder then should be but that everything appeard ok.

Skip forward to our 50k service this week....

My wife was told that there was a problem with the lower oil pan. When they took off the plug 2 threads came out with it. She was told that they had been looking for a tap to re-thread the hole, but they were unable to find a tap the size of the drain plug. The service guy said that he went back to the car and threaded the plug into the hold but the plug won't tighten to finger tight. He said that it's loose and that he thinks it will fall out.

My wife called me and I had to contact the dealer. They pretty much gave me the same story and I suggested that I might look for the tap. I have been looking this week for something that might work but don't really know what to say since I'm not tap/die metric size savy.

The dealer gave us another option to replace the oil pan again and I asked how much would it cost. I was told 2400.oo They said that it would take 17hrs to pull the motor up, drop the front axle and drop the subframe.
All this for a stripped oil pan.

Can't a helicoil be placed into the hole...? I was told the hole size is 23.75 outside diameter and thread is 24 x 1.5 whatever that means. The oil pan is aluminumn

I have located a product from locktite called a thread repair kit designed for oil pans and other automotive uses. Will this work?????

My neighbor suggested why not just tap the hole to a standard size from metric?
Will this work???

Thanks everyone.
 
#4 ·
yep not rocket science, any good shop or engineer shop should be able to drill and tap it to another nominal size, be it metric or imperial... not even a time consuming job in the right hands...

if it is finger tight then it will not fall out, just take it elsewhere...
 
#6 ·
"helicoil" is in fact stronger than the original !
 
#7 ·
Hi,

Just a quick update.... I've spoken to numerous places so far about this.....

I was at NAPA today and they sell a type of universal plug with a toggle bolt attached that looks like it would work in a worst case scenario.

This morning I spoke with the dealer who told me that he had left a message with Helicoil and that he would follow up in a little bit. I hung up and called them myself. I spoke a male in customer service and he ended up sending me to a tech. It ended up being the same tech my dealer had spoke to. She had just returned from lunch and was going to tell the dealer that they didn't have what was needed.

This tech then had the idea to perform a search and see if anyone had requested the same size. A result came back saying Helicoil had made the required items once. She gave me the part numbers and told me to contact a distributer since she didn't know how much the special order items would cost.

A few minutes later my dealer calls, tells me that they had located part numbers and that they were going to contact some distributors. I told him that I had just spoken to the tech and he said that she had made mention that someone else was just looking for the same size. I told him that his dealership could corner the market if this would work. He agreed and said he would be in touch.

I wonder if the dealer is going to try and charge me for them to buy the tools they need???[-X

I wonder why VW doesn't make a fix for this??? :confused:
 
#8 ·
sounds like an expensive path you are going down for a relatively cheap heli coil.. find a good engineering workshop and they will just do the job to some slightly larger size without all this fuss. what experience has your dealer guys got with fitting helicoils? how are they going to manage the swarf created by the tap drill? an engineering shop will have all this well sorted and the job will not end in tears. also there other other brands, not just helicoil.

the tools required are simply the correct drill size for the tap hole and a spanner to fit the heilcoil which often comes with a basic single size coil kit.. maybe $40 to 100 for the lot..
 
#9 ·
I may be very mis-informed, but I was under the impression that HeliCoils are only to be used to secure things together for long-term use, not for something that will be repeatedly installed and removed. At least that's what I was told on a dirtbike engine's oil filter cover a while back.

I'd check with a machine shop about just having the thing tapped out and a new bolt fitted. As Matthew@F pointed out, I'm sure they've got some way to deal with the metal shavings, and I'd trust a reputable shop much more to do it than the dealer. (Although, if the dealer repaired it and the fit hit the shan, you could go back on the dealer for repair if things go bad)

Matt
 
#10 ·
Well spoke to the dealer and was told that it would take approx. 12 weeks for the tools to be manufactured.

It seems like everyone thinks that the helicoil is a normal size. Strange how it can't be found here in Southern California. The drain plug is 24mm which is a very large size and not readily available.

I have a lead from a friend for a good machine shop here in town so we'll see about that tommorrow.

I have given the ok by the dealer to place a universal plug inside the pan to get the car out. I'll get the car back either tommorrow or wednesday. The dealer is not willing to guarantee that this plug will hold or that it will not leak and I will need to sign a release as to such.
 
#11 ·
All I'll say is make doubly sure that it doesn't leak. I'd park it on a clean sheet of cardboard whenever possible, and make pretty routine inspections underneath to make sure it's not leaking. If it starts to leak a little, that plug may be coming loose. If it falls out altogether, you'll be running with no oil very quickly, as that thing will drain the oil rapidly. I'd hope the MFI would say something if it did suddenly loose oil pressure though.

Good luck, be safe!
matt
 
#12 ·
why not just run a tap through the stripped thread in the pan... then fit the bolt with a little urethane sealant....

helicoils are stronger than the original and can be used time and time again...


i am amazed at the crap you are going through with the dealer, re threading in industry is going on each and every day! please do your self a favour and go see a good engineering shop...
 
#13 ·
Received a call from the Dealers Customer Service guy. He told me that they had found an option and way to have an insert placed into the pan but that it would take three to five bussines days for the kit to arrive. The kit would cost me over 500.00 dollars to buy and they would install it for me.

I jumped on the net and found a place in Torrance, Calif. who had it instock. www.threadkits.com . I drove out to Torrance 93 miles, paid for the kit, (528.00) and then drove to the dealer about 95 miles. The Customer Service guy was in a meeting and was unable to come out. The original service writer had the tech come in with my drain plug and they screwed the insert to the plug and it fits. :D

The service writer told me that they would put the insert in and that it would cost 250 dollars to do. :evil: I asked the service guy what was the total for the Touareg right now. He told me that the 50K service was 247.00 and that this was going to be another 250.00 to do. I told him i bought the tool and didn't need it after this was done, so they could buy it from me. The writer guy said that he would talk about it with his service mgr and Cust. Service guy. :cool:

If anyone is in S. Calif.. I'm dealing with Murrieta Volkswagon. I'll let you know what happens tommorrow as I was told the car would be ready then.

If it works and they buy the kit from me, it will be a heck lot better then 2400.00

Almost forgot. I found a company that comes out to dealerships and removes broken bold/studs and repairs threads. www.Boltguy.com he is local here in Riverside County. The dealer told me they would not let him preform work on the car on their property. Since There is no oil to move the car.....I felt SOL.

pb
 
#14 ·
you did not get 'threaded' you got 'reamed'!!! bolt guy would have had the job sorted in a flash..
 
#16 ·
Thanks for all the help and advice

Two days ago I got my beautiful car back and she runs wonderfully!! The dealer did not purchase the tool kit so I am looking to sell it locally to any of the places my husband spoke to regarding all of this. The dealer didn't know what to do about the shavings so my husband suggested pouring oil straight through to clear it out. The total I paid for 50,000 mile tuneup and all was $499, plus the tool kit of $528, still better than $2400;). Thanks again for all of the advice, it took awhile but I am happy to be driving my baby again.
 
#46 ·
Two days ago I got my beautiful car back and she runs wonderfully!! The dealer did not purchase the tool kit so I am looking to sell it locally to any of the places my husband spoke to regarding all of this. The dealer didn't know what to do about the shavings so my husband suggested pouring oil straight through to clear it out. The total I paid for 50,000 mile tuneup and all was $499, plus the tool kit of $528, still better than $2400;). Thanks again for all of the advice, it took awhile but I am happy to be driving my baby again.
Why not buy a strong (rare earth) magnet, affix it to the drain plug (externally should be OK) then drive car for a couple of thou, drain oil carefully removing plug with magnet attached. Wipe all metal shavings/pieces from plug, replace and refill with oil. I would be inclined to do this at least a couple of times to ensure removal of all meatl before it gets into the engine workings. Would be heaps cheaper than an engine rebuild.
 
#17 ·
can you post a photo of the "kit" please
 
#22 ·
#26 ·
The original damage was caused by the dealers service department when a oil change was performed.
And not by the manufacture or materials. which is what VWOA guarantees.
Therefore your warranty will limited by not using a genuine Volkswagen part, so if the helicoil pulls out after time and your engine locks up that will not be covered under your warranty. In this case since the helicoil is connected to your engine, your engine will not be covered if they decide the coil is at fault…
I have been on the phone with VWOA for around six hours over a few months and they are sticking with their story. This is why I had them replaced my oil pan…$2500 it cost me. And that’s why it is going to court.
Don’t beat the messenger I am just trying to give you guys a heads up …
 
#27 ·
I don't know why you'd helicoil the damn thing versus just tapping out new threads anyway. Either way, you have to drill it and tap threads. I've always heard you never want to helicoil an item that is installed/removed over and over again anyway (like an oil pan drain plug), since you risk dislodging the helicoil when you remove it.

Regardless, VW is being alarmist. They are either concerned with the drain plug assembly falling out and draining all the oil, or the shavings from the drilling/tapping getting into the pan and oil and causing damage.

Matt
 
#29 ·
I don't know why you'd helicoil the damn thing versus just tapping out new threads anyway. Either way, you have to drill it and tap threads. I've always heard you never want to helicoil an item that is installed/removed over and over again anyway (like an oil pan drain plug), since you risk dislodging the helicoil when you remove it.

Regardless, VW is being alarmist. They are either concerned with the drain plug assembly falling out and draining all the oil, or the shavings from the drilling/tapping getting into the pan and oil and causing damage.

Matt
I have been told the same as you said about using helicoils on parts that needs to be installed and there after reinstalled you run a great risk of dislodging the helicoil it's self... which means you will have to put a bigger coil in. And as VWOA put it ...I'll be back at square one
 
#28 ·
also nothing has happened or will happen with the repaired thread, it will be safer, better, stronger than the original. you have not suffered a fault that you caused and you still have warranty.

seems silly to go to court over a busted thread with an easy fix, vw and yourself could have benefited from some sound technical advice at the pointy end of this problem. good luck with it.
 
#30 ·
also nothing has happened or will happen with the repaired thread, it will be safer, better, stronger than the original. you have not suffered a fault that you caused and you still have warranty.

seems silly to go to court over a busted thread with an easy fix, vw and yourself could have benefited from some sound technical advice at the pointy end of this problem. good luck with it.
You may what to look at your Warranty booklet 1.2 on page 4... Like I said before I have spoken to VWOA for around 6 hrs about this and they are sticking to the same old story. If my warranty was not affected of which I have 2 yrs on my factory and 3 more years on a extended warranty I did not want to risk the fact this could be voided. I too think it is silly to go to court but since they not wanting to pay for the damage they caused I have no choice.
 
#31 ·
i understand your sentiments and hope it goes well for you.

as an mechanical guy i can tell you the heli coil will not fail in your sump and will in fact be better than the original, it is a great shame vw do not understand this and as you say have led you down this path to court. your oil is not going to spill out all over the road and sieze your engine, that is just common sense if the coil was fitted correctly.

ask them with a witness what torque they used when tightening your sump bolt at the time of stripping! establish that they have poor proceedures and QA , ask to see the workshop socket that fits the workshop torque wrench, it should be immediately at hand....
 
#33 ·
helicoils are NOT meant for anything that is gonna be taken on and off repeatedly. And if anyone has looked at the thread size of the drain plug on a v8, that size is not at all anything that is common in any tap and die kit, let alone finding a drain bolt bigger than the original!!
Go to the helicoil website and it says you can use in a application where assembly and disassembly is required. I'm actually using a helicoil on the pan of a race motor, been using it for 3 years, and because of the locking ring in the coil, I have had no issues at all with it. When I go to the track I HAVE to change the oil atleast once during runs. And still, going over 160 MPH down the 1/4 mile, never an issue when it comes to taking the drain plug out or putting it back in. This is my experience with them. Believe me, I wouldn't be using it on something that is a part of a $14,000 motor if I wasn't sure about it. Just my .02, ignore as needed:D
 
#35 ·
JMB049 How have things gone on getting the helicoil??? I have had to use helicoils for many different applications in the past due to the nature of my job and they would be ideal to use for your stripped drain plug hole. I've had to use them in high pressure systems around 3000psi -4500psi and they work great. if it's too much trouble to get the helicoil find a machine shop if you don't feel up to doing this but your other alternative is to tap the hole to the next size up that you can find a drain plug for.
 
#36 ·
you could also weld say a 4mm plate over the existing hole (the size of playing card...) then simply re drill and tap the original size beside the old hole.. job done

there is always an easy effective common sense solution...
i feel for you having to deal with techo vw people reading of pc cue sheets and no real world experience.