You can get it off by hammering a socket onto it. Can't remember what size the mechanic used. Just need to find one that is the correct size to wedge onto it tightly, then carefully unscrew the assembly of socket and wheel bolt. it will damage the nut further, but so what. I actually salvaged mine with a file. in my case I left the key socket on the wheel after changing a flat and spun it off somewhere. Bought a new key socket. Can't remember how I found the correct one out of about a dozen.

 

You can get it off by hammering a socket onto it.

That is one way to do it. If you can get a bite on it, you might get lucky and be able to back out the lug.

But I suspect what your mechanic used was a "reverse thread socket" that are designed to remove rounded bolts. You can pound them on, and they are tapered and as you turn them to remove the bolt, they bite harder and deeper into the damaged bolt.

Can get them at Sears or Auto Parts stores or even Harbor Freight Tools or order on-line. Here's what one looks like:

http://www.carid.com/hanson/extract...lBRDW07y3z6f96awBEiQA0IngJn7begC2LWXoLsvmEp9tGJOS4jJNxvU2S1CP8i4xMBYaAtgK8P8HAQ

 

Sounds like a nifty tool but I watched as he tried his deep wall impact soctets on for size.

 

reverse thread socket as others have mentioned...just need to make sure there is enough room around the lug bolt to hammer the socket on there.

 

Hmmm.... If I recall correctly, the stock VW security lug bolts on my Touareg have a freely rotating heavy outer cylindrical steel sleeve to prevent the use of back-out sockets...

 

Bumping a very old thread.
Does anyone know if this is true?
Had an air impact monkey mess up one of my wheel locks.

I'm planning on getting rid of the locks but need to get this one damaged one off.
Thanks.


.

 

Nevermind...found out it is.
Time for plan B.
Next plan C- 22mm to get rid of the collar. Then a 3/4" emergency lock nut remover.


.

 

I went through a tough time, when I was swapping my 2012 20" Pikes Peak wheels for a set of 2004 Cayenne Turbo 17" wheels/tires, the lock had been stripped by the previous tire change moron.

I had tried banging a socket on and that was no luck.

I got an emergency locking lug nut removing socket which has threads on the inside of it, much like an ez-out but in reverse. After much effort, the emergency socket worked and I was able to get the round lugnut with the puzzle-face, off. It was a PITA but I got it.

I had to damage the round collar that goes around the bolt enough so that the threads of the emergency socket could get a bite on the bolt and once I was able to get that to happen, the e-socket was able to get the bolt out.

 

I have the same issue on my 911 in the garage with a blow out. Waiting for 4 new lugs and tossing the locks in the garbage. I'm heading to Harbor Freight now. Thanks.

 

I read in another thread I found somewhere that a 22mm socket wold go over that collar and get it to come off the bolt. If the 22mm trick doesnt work then I'll use a small cutting wheel to cut the collar a bit then split it with a cold chisel. Then using the 3/4" e-socket the bolt itself should break free so it can be removed.
Luckily it's only 1 lock bolt I have to deal with. The other three are all changed already.


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I just ran into this same issue. A few things to try before you go damaging the lug bolt.


First, there appear (to my knowledge) to be two anti-theft lug styles. The first type is something that looks like an internal spline on the lug bolt and an external spline on the lug tool (my Mk4 Jetta has this style, and the VW Dealer lists something similar for Touareg as well). The second type has a milled pattern on it (usually curvy) and a mating lug key.


Which style are you talking about (or is it something else)?


My '13 has the swirly style. Recently a tire changer managed to torque the wheels wrong by hand and messed up the lug in the tightening direction. I was able to use a hammer and 1/4" chissel to sort of fix the key, and the bolt enough to remove it. I didn't want to risk further damage so ordered another set of lugs.

The locking lugs I have could probably work with the socket trick. Most people I have seen can hammer a 12 point deep socket over the outer diameter of the socket and it would work.



The spline drive style the same thing may (or may not) work. I know they make lug removal tools that also may or may not work.


There is also the option of drilling them off with a large drill bit as explained in this post: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3207133


I've had a similar problem present itself with stainless allen head screws. If you have a decent welder nearby you can wire brush the zinc plating off the lug and weld a nut or piece of 3/8" square bar stock to the lug and that should (hopefully) be enough to remove it. If you do weld its probably best to put a few layers of masking tape over the wheel and perhaps even spray anti-spatter (whatever you want to call it) to avoid weld spatter and to also only weld for 15-20 seconds at a time and allow time for the part to cool to avoid over heating the wheel and damaging the finish. Also probably best to keep a fire extinguisher handy.

 

Mine is like your first picture or the picture below. I think it would take a while to try and fix the pattern to have the key fit. I just have to get the collar off then the 3/4" e-socket should get the bolt off.
I don't care about damaging the head of the locking bolt. I'm not putting them back on.


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Mine is like your first picture or the picture below. I think it would take a while to try and fix the pattern to have the key fit. I just have to get the collar off then the 3/4" e-socket should get the bolt off.
I don't care about damaging the head of the locking bolt. I'm not putting them back on.
.

How bad were they?

 

Drill a hole in the center.
Use a bolt\stud extractor to back it out.

 

Drill a hole in the center.
Use a bolt\stud extractor to back it out.

I think this method would have worked if the torque monkeys hadn't used an air impact to tighten them.
I use easy outs a lot and I'm betting it would snap before being useful in this situation.


.

 

P.S. that's just a quick visual.... you need the bolt extractors..... but in the very short size.....

 

Something like this
https://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-b...ools/screw-bolt-extractors/hex-head-multi-spline-screw-extractors-522532-series

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/12...zvijSsGDWgPZoIhRoCo8gQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916772557!!!g!82128472797!


https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/screw-extractors/4236685/






Actually now that I think of it I think I used one of my tripple squares as a bolt extractor. Just have to drill the hole the correct size and hammer it in.

 

Why were they tough to loosen? Were they corroded or just tight?

I watched a shop tech at a chain tire store torque with an air gun and then hand torque to 135 ftlbs by yanking on the torque wrench which is when they damaged the lock because the torque wrench didn't stay perfectly aligned.

Do you have any pictures of the damage? I'm curious what the damaged lug looked like.

 

They weren't corroded. Looks like someone at some time applied some antisieze to the threads.
They were just overtightened. I'm guessing they used the air gun because any that I tightened using a torue wrench @133 ft/lbs I was able to easily loosen with the VW supplied lug wrench.
I didn't take a picture of the damaged one, but as I said I think I damaged it (not sure) when trying to loosen it with the VW supplied lug wrench. It slipped a couple of times. When I went to the 19mm socket head bolt I couldn't budge them either. I then acquired a breaker bar to loosen all the lug bolts on all the other wheel. Sucess on all but the one security lug bolt.
I'll be getting that one off this one day weekend I have off from work. I already purchased 20 brand new replacement lug bolts of which three I put in place of the three security lug bolts I was able to get off without damage.
Most shops do use torque sticks and tighten them to 90 ft/lbs initially then hand torque them with a torque wrench to the 133 ft/lbs. Just too lazy to do it the right way.



.

 

Most shops do use torque sticks and tighten them to 90 ft/lbs initially then hand torque them with a torque wrench to the 133 ft/lbs. Just too lazy to do it the right way.

I've seen a lot of shops do this. It of course is an incorrect practice for a bunch of reasons. Personally I've tightened bolts to 50 ftlbs with cordless impact guns, then a nice even pull to 135. I have to say 135 is a decent torque number for the average torque wrench. I also tend to tighten in a cross pattern. first get all lugs seated by hand, then torque to 50 ft lbs in a cross pattern, then put the brake on or set enough weight on the wheel to pull full torque again in a cross pattern.


It is never good to stop at 90 or 100 ftlbs and then try to pull the last 35 ftlbs or so. The torque required to break the friction of the lug leads to inaccurate torque. I guess I'd be comfortable going to 60 ft lbs maybe even 70 ft lbs then torque to final 135 ftlbs.


If you look at the torque values of most VW bolts they are similar ratios of initial torque to final torque (though VW specifies by angle usually).



My thoughts for whatever they are worth.

 

Over the years I have always applied a small smear of copper grease to the mating surface where each wheel meets the hub in order to make sure I can get wheels off if I have to change them.


I have also always applied tiny smear to wheel studs/bolts/lugs but I understand that in doing so you impact the ability to accurately torque them up since the grease means you exceed the required torque rating which is set on dry components.

 

I have also always applied tiny smear to wheel studs/bolts/lugs but I understand that in doing so you impact the ability to accurately torque them up since the grease means you exceed the required torque rating which is set on dry components.

If you use a very slight amount on the threads only you can pull them to torque fairly accurately. On tradition lug nuts i’ve Found the tapered seat provides most of the friction and thus should be left dry.

A few years ago anti-sieze crayons appeared and work great for putting a tiny stripe on. Just enough to do the trick.

I always wipe excess off with a paper towel and solvent.

Also VW puts a combination friction reducer and anti corrosive coating on almost all their bolts. It is some type of ‘new’ (in the past 10 years) coating. I think it’s called ecoguard (http://www.alleghenycoatings.com/uploads/1/4/0/5/14055838/ecoguard_ac.pdf)

It essentially does the same thing as anti sieze.

 

Read a story about one extortionist who attached his own locks along with a note. So, the owner ignored the message, went to garage and used welding machine to attached some extra bolts to remove the locks. The only problem was to protect the rims (he used pieces of cutting discs as a protection).

 

Now I'm experiencing the same problem with my 2013. Does anyone have the TSB that was referenced in this thread earlier? Also, does anyone have 4 extra bolts for sale or know the size/place I can buy them from?

 

I bought a whole set of replacement lug bolts from a company I can't remember unfortunately. I wound up not using them because they didnt have the red "centering" spacer that the OEM had ( I have OCD... don't laugh). I eventually wound up buying part # WHT001964A from China off of Ebay. They fit and looked great. I wasn't thinking of selling any of the ones I bought but didn't use. Figured I'd keep them in case.
As far as the TSB, I attached it for you.

 

We (me and my 18yrs old son) help the neighbourhood with changing summers to winters. Sometimes we bump into a car that has been in a shop for tire change and the bolts are really tight. One day we had a Ford C-max or something. We have a Milwaukee gun that provides 1900Nm of opening torque (1400 ft lb), and the bolts did not open. Not a single one. Only with a long arm and lot of muscle power we managed to open the bolts. There should be criminal actions towards such companies that tighten the bolts with raw power, rather than a moment wrench.

 

Can anyone explain the difference between the floating washer on our lug bolts compared to a ball seated bolt without a floating washer? It doesn't seem like the floating washers are on any of the aftermarket bolts. Do I just spin them off the original bolts or simply use bolts without the washers as long as they’re ball seat bolts? I've never even seen washers like that so I don't know what they are intended to do.

 

First of all, OEM bolts are "ball seat" from what I recall, which is NOT the same as a conical seat.
The "floating ball seat" washers ensure a uniform clamping force against the mating wheel surface.
When anyone changes wheels to aftermarket wheels, you need to use the correct bolts for your specific wheel (so you OEM could be ball seat, but the aftermarket could be conical seat..... even if you go from OEM to a different OEM - like an A6 wheel or something....)

 

As above, all I have ever seen from VW, for our Touaregs stock rims, are ball seat bolts. "Double washers" on bolts sounds very dubious, perhaps someone has replaced your stock rims with some other type and is trying to compensate? These bolts are under a great deal of stress, and these are heavy capable vehicles. Proper rims and bolts cost money, cheap offshore junk is to be seriously avoided, if your, and other's, safety is of any concern.

 

I’m replacing bolts for my OE wheels. I misspoke regarding comparing the OE bolts to a conical seat bolt, but the question is in regards to replacing an OE bolt with a ball seat bolt without a floating washer rather than a question about replacing the wheels.

I edited my original question with the correct terminology.

 

stock wheel bolts part number is WHT-001-964-A and WHT-002-529.
Now the description states 18 for the WHT-001-964-A and 20 for the WHT-002-529. Both are the OEM style ball-seat wheel bolts. - no I haven't ordered them - so I cannot vouch for them....

 

Assuming the mating wheel bolt hole seat is machined perfectly perpendicular to the bolt threaded hole, then you do not need the floating washers..... if there is any deviation, the bolt will not provide as much clamping force as it will only "partially" seat on the mating surface.

 

Personally, I wouldn't vary from the bolt design provided by the manufacturer, and that is free-floating, captive ball washer bolts. If you go VW genuine parts, you're assured of the quality, and that it will fit and work as designed. Don't forget, these are critically stressed parts!