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DIY Testing and dissassembling door handles

44K views 78 replies 21 participants last post by  Touareg Happy  
#1 ·
Hey fellow members,

I had to tackle this door handle job trying to understand why my convenience switch was king of activating by itself.
Scanned module 46 Central convenience
Measuring blocks, 001 LF door, 007 RF, 008 & 009 the rears
if you 're looking at the 4th box in VAG COM it will say Not Activated or Not operational, when you press your button it will say Activated
My passenger door button was stuck on Activated all the time as if someone was holding it in non-stop.

To dissasemble the handle,
You need a
T20 torx bit
T5 for door handle bolts

Here's whats hiding under a black cover on front door, abou the door handle height

Image


Keep unscrewing the T20 screw until you can easily move this piece and just pulling it outwards it should come out with a little bit of jiggling around

Image


Now the door handle is a 3 piece affair, you will find tiny T5 screws at one extremity and the other, everything is sort of clipped toghether, apply gentle force evenly when trying to separate pieces, watch out not to be prying on a painted surface that is visible from outside

Image


Now a little bit further into the dissassembly, i found my button and a tiny bit of moisture and probably corroded contacts on where it was sitting

Image


I was very sorry to discover that the handle is not serviceable or parts cannot be replaced in it due to its one time design, and some kind of very hard sealant which is poured and solidified to supposedly keep all the electrics from the elements, however i think this is why they have such a high failure rate.

Image


So all in all, decided to cutoff and isolate the wires going to this handle because as i was doing this dissasembly the VAG-COM was plugged in and monitoring inputs from the handle.
Even with the button completely unobstructed i would get the rather odd Activated state from time to time.
Unfortunately a replacement is the only option if you want this working, if not, well i can live without this on one or more door handles :cool:
 
#30 ·
From reading the above, it appears the 3 of my faults in my car may be related:
1) RH Rear door won't lock
2) My car alarm goes off randomly when at work or out and about
3) I had a 'No Start' this week where my car completely shutdown the ignition and dash warning lights etc. All i could see was the doors indicator on my MFD & my stereo lit up. Resolved temporarily by battery disconnect & reconnect.

Is it true, are these things related?
 
#31 ·
So my issues continue.

Update. I pulled the negative cable on the battery and put a multimeter between cable and post. I had a draw of .7 or so draw on the meter. Found that my kessy had a .3 draw and fuse 12 on passenger side had about the same draw. Fuse 12 looks to be radio/audio amp. So I pulled that fuse and charged the battery overnight. Two days later, no start.

When I pulled both fuses, Kessy and fuse 12, draw when to zero.

I really thought I had something.
 
#32 ·
Great post. I am also experiencing the same issue with my door handles, including the dreaded battery drain, which I am pretty sure is related to the door handles. It looks like you have to disassemble the doors in order to disconnect the handles. Is there an easier way to accomplish this and if not, does anyone have a step-by-step guide on how to accomplish this? Would be greatly appreciative. Thanks in advance.
 
#38 ·
@TUNINGBYAMG
I know its been some time you wrote on this thread, but I wanted to ask for your assistance I hope you are still active here.
I have a 2005 W12 7L which has the two door handles on the passenger side shorted to ground. Some time ago I got the drained battery issue(main battery is new 4 months). Luckily I got it started from the aux battery.
I followed your instructions and unplugged the connectors in the two faulty doors which you had highlighted earlier in the thread. Now the errors for the door handle buttons are gone, and the car does not lock unlock itself when I am near it with the key in the pocket. I have unticked the Auto lock/unlock in the comfort menu.

However I am seeing a new error(wasnt there before):

00180 - Access/Start Authorization Antenna; Passenger Side (R135): Open Circuit


Which kind of makes sense as I have indeed unplugged the cable. However why is it not showing it for the rear right door too (I unplugged that one as well). I am worried that almost all threads for battery drain problems with defective KESSY module have this error in their scans.
1. My question is - when you unplugged your wires, were you getting the above error code?
2. Isnt the above error/issue more likely to cause a battery drain(not allowing the car to go into standby) than the handle buttons being shorted to ground

Thanks

BTW: I am Bulgarian too.
 
#35 ·
Here is the latest chapter. Took my daughter skiing last weekend. Left at 6am, loading the car. With the doors left open for a while,etc... car would not start. So I jumped it. Drove for 3.5 hours, parked and skied for 5 hours. Went to the parking lot to get the car to bring closer. Car started right up. Drove 300 feet, parked, took 5-6 minutes to load, daughter put key on and put the heater fan on high, car would not start.
 
#36 ·
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried this earlier and had no luck as the setting was not saving in the MFI. I did read in a different post that one must lock the car with the key to have the settings save. Have tried this and so far, the setting has not reverted back to default and the battery appears to be holding fine. I'm still getting the annoying "Shift To Position P" message periodically but I'm pretty certain that I can only get rid of that if I disconnect the offending door handles.
 
#39 ·
For the sake of being thorough these were the errors before I unplugged the couplings in the right side doors:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 7L0-959-933.lbl
Part No: 7L0 959 933 E
Component: GH HSG 0201
Coding: 0000065
Shop #: WSC 42781 124 82216
VCID: 3EE3DBBDCC000864EA-4B32

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 7L0 959 701 B
Component: Tuersteuergeraet FS 0101

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 7L0 959 702 B
Component: Tuersteuergeraet BF 0201

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 7L0 959 703 B
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HL 0201

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 7L0 959 704 D
Component: Tuersteuergeraet HR 0201

Subsystem 5 - Part No: 7L0 907 719
Component: Neigungssensor 0020

Subsystem 6 - Part No: 7L6 951 171
Component: A Innenraumsensor 0019

2 Faults Found:
00486 - Front Passengers Outside Door Handle Central Locking Button (E370)
007 - Short to Ground
00488 - Rear Right Outside Door Handle Central Locking Button (E372)
007 - Short to Ground


Those are gone now and a new one appeared:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 05: Acc/Start Auth. Labels: 3D0-909-13x-05.lbl
Part No SW: 3D0 909 135 Q HW: 5WK 470 22
Component: 0L Kessy 6610
Revision: 66105312 Serial number: VWZ3Z0D3234398
Coding: 0147688
Shop #: WSC 31414 000 00000
VCID: 33DCF59C207BCA3142-5178

Subsystem 1 - Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX
Component: ELV XXXX

00180 - Access/Start Authorization Antenna; Passenger Side (R135): Open Circuit

I do not have any other errors. Will the car go into standby with the above error?
 
#41 ·
You have two separate circuits in the door handles.

The first system are the switches located under the black buttons that are used to lock the car. This is separate from the antenna and should be treated as separate.

The switches can fail to activate when pressed or activate when they are not pressed.

If the switches fail to activate, this will not produce any errors in the scan. The only problem will be pressing them will do nothing. The switches can also activate when they should not. This will produce errors such as the famous Move Selector to Position Park message.

Image


Now. Can the black switch ever cause the battery to drain? Only if it keeps unlocking the doors over and over. This is obvious as the vehicle will randomly unlock itself. By the time that is happening, you will also be getting random unlocks while driving and be seeing the switch to park message.

00488 - Rear Right Outside Door Handle Central Locking Button (E372)
007 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
----------------------

Now the second are the antenna problems. The actual antennas almost never break. The are just a wire, much like the in-glass rear radio antennas. How often do they fail? Not often.

At this point, many are thinking this post if full of crap. Antenna problems are common as dirt. Close to being right but not right. It is not the antenna that is broken.

Antenna problems 99.8% of the time point to bad mosfets in the kessy. This is an extremely common problem, but it is an electronic problem on the circuit board, not the antenna.

Antenna problems will drain the battery each and every time. You will rebuild or replace the kessy module to fix this problem.

1 Fault Found:
00180 - Access/Start Authorization Antenna; Passenger Side (R135)
009 - Open or Short to Ground
-------

So, hopefully now everyone understands that there are two separate systems here. One system deals with the black push buttons that lock the car. The other system deals with the antennas that unlock the car. Each are separate and each can be disabled while leaving the other one working.
 
#52 ·
You have two separate circuits in the door handles.

The first system are the switches located under the black buttons that are used to lock the car. This is separate from the antenna and should be treated as separate.

The switches can fail to activate when pressed or activate when they are not pressed.

If the switches fail to activate, this will not produce any errors in the scan. The only problem will be pressing them will do nothing. The switches can also activate when they should not. This will produce errors such as the famous Move Selector to Position Park message.

Image


Now. Can the black switch ever cause the battery to drain? Only if it keeps unlocking the doors over and over. This is obvious as the vehicle will randomly unlock itself. By the time that is happening, you will also be getting random unlocks while driving and be seeing the switch to park message.



----------------------

Now the second are the antenna problems. The actual antennas almost never break. The are just a wire, much like the in-glass rear radio antennas. How often do they fail? Not often.

At this point, many are thinking this post if full of crap. Antenna problems are common as dirt. Close to being right but not right. It is not the antenna that is broken.

Antenna problems 99.8% of the time point to bad mosfets in the kessy. This is an extremely common problem, but it is an electronic problem on the circuit board, not the antenna.

Antenna problems will drain the battery each and every time. You will rebuild or replace the kessy module to fix this problem.



-------

So, hopefully now everyone understands that there are two separate systems here. One system deals with the black push buttons that lock the car. The other system deals with the antennas that unlock the car. Each are separate and each can be disabled while leaving the other one working.
if I am understanding correctly, if I have a short to ground on my rear passenger handle, I can snip the wire for it, and the antenna will still work for the unlock? Would love to disable the black button but retain the unlock sensing feature

Also, does anyone know why my rear passenger door handle button shows activated in VCDS, but it has never worked to lock?
 
#42 ·
OK, sorry about the stupid question but now I'm wondering if my Kessy ever worked the way it's supposed to.

In order to unlock, I not only have to touch the handle but I have to pull on it twice (the first time the door is lock then the 2nd time it opens), normal?
i.e., it's not just a touch of the handle that unlocks the doors.
 
#43 ·
Put your hand on the handle. Pull quickly. Door does not open. Pull again. Door opens. <<You are pulling the handle too soon.

Put your hand on the handle. Wait 0.25 seconds. Pull handle. It should open on first try.

At least, that is the way it works for me.
 
#44 ·
I just tried, it's hit or miss, depending on the handle. For some, I just need to "caress" more the inside ;-)
Also every now and then, I lock with the keyfob and and when walking away past the car, it reopens by itself...
I'm really wondering if I should just pull the kessy and replace MOSFETs and resistors.
I only have one error in VCDS that shows Rear Bumper Antenna not working.

I also got locked-out twice in a few years where the keyfob wouldn't open the doors.

Oh and my black button stopped working (I checked with VCDS and it's just not activating) :-(

Oh well, 15y old german electronics...

Rich.
 
#45 ·
You have an antenna error. This usually indicates the mosfets are going and a kessy rebuild is needed. Plus, it should never unlock by itself. This also indicates a problem. If it was me, I would just go ahead and do the rebuild. It is just going to get worse. Eventually it will start draining the battery. At that point you will not be able to start the engine.

You can ignore the dead black button as long as the car does not start trying to lock itself. Just press a different doors button to lock the vehicle.

A 100% dead lock button will not be a problem. It is when the black button randomly locks that door that something has to be done but a dead one is ok to just leave/ignore. You have to install a new door handle to fix it, which is really expensive.
 
#46 ·
Hi Nickyt. I wonder if you could help with my kessy issues. Not sure if it’s mosfets or resistors or what.
Kessy works in so much as I don’t take the remote out of my pocket but is quite annoying!
When I lock the car with the remote it flashes 4 times. Always.
It unlocks with the proximity sensors in the door handles. It also unlocks with the remotes.
Only one of the buttons locks it.
One button seems to be stuck or shorted as it tries locking if I go anywhere near it with the key on me - it goes crazy and locks continuously. Fortunately this is on a passenger side door and is intermittent.
Very occasionally I get a key not found message.
I regularly scan it with my (genuine) VCDS. Usually all the antennas and sometimes the door handles report errors.
The rear convenience module has never been replaced as far as I’m aware but all the seat memory, door locking and window memory settings are stored and never need to be reset.
So, where to go from here?
Resistors? Mosfets? Convenience module?Or handles?
Many thanks.
 
#47 · (Edited)
The button on the RR door on my 2006 V10 was not working and at the same time battery was draining so after reading this and other threads I pulled the plug, but now the door will not lock even by using the remote. And I get the following message
00931 - locking module for central locking - RR (F223)
008 - implausible signal

I will see how my battery fares overnight, if this works I am golden, but I would like to be able to lock the door. Any suggestions?

Image of the connector i pulled attached
 
#48 ·
I have ordered a used handle, according to seller it works. In any event, it comes with a connector with just the door handle wires so I will have to switch the connector since on my treg both lock and handle wires are on one. Prior to going through all that trouble I was thinking of making a hot connection between the new door handle wires right into the existing kessy connection in the the door.

Here my question is, will this contraption work without fitting the door handle in the door?
 
#51 ·




I just swapped handles on my T1. I put a left rear handle on the left front. As far as I can tell the only thing different about any of the four handles is the wire color. My push button finally works. No problems with the antenna that I can tell. I have always needed to double pull all of my handles for keyless unlock (once to unlock, second to open), so if the handles are supposed to be touch sensitive, I also can't vouch to that.

The switch in my driver handle was stuck in the activated position per vcds. I verfied with a multimemter at the plug (had continuity when not being pressed). I had zero symptoms or battery drain issues besides the button not locking the car.

If you follow ELSA you are supposed to remove the "carrier assembly" to properly install/uninstall the door handle with KESSY wire harness. I opted to splice the wires at the handle. If you go this route cut the wires from your old handle as close to the handle as possible so you have as much length as possible to work with. Opposite for your donor handle (I got mine at a junk yard for $8).
 
#63 ·
Image

Thank you sir! Pleased to report this worked perfectly, only took 15 minutes to pull door and place back. Hope this continues to help others.

Do you have a wiring diagram for the vehicle by chance? I could use a PDF to help w potential future issues, I totally depended on your photo for this fix.
 
#66 ·
Great posts! I am trying this tomorrow. 2006 V10, right side rear door. Many thanks.

I notice that thinking evolved on this topic, I am assuming that the "auto unlock" feature still needs to be turned off and the driver door locked with the key to save?
I never disabled the Auto Unlock feature. Candidly, I’m not exactly sure what that feature is and why folks are suggesting to disable. Curious
 
#68 ·
Image


Calling on the brain trust to help me once again. This vehicle loves to test you.

After solving my battery drain stemming from my rear passenger door black button shorting out (I unpinned the wire) it seems a new annoyance has sprung up as my battery is dying again.

This time with the front passenger door antenna. Interesting how these fault codes appear in module 5, but it is actually module 46 where you can view live data for the components.

Strangely, while you can view live data for the little black button, you cannot do the same for the antenna. Can anyone confirm the same observation?

Does anyone know if the antenna can be a cause for battery drain? My Kessy makes clicking noises, so I know it’s likely failing, could it instead just be the kessy module tripping things up, or is my best solution unpinning the antenna wire as well?

It’s a shame because while the black button on that door is inoperable, the keyless entry works flawlessly.