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siberian

· My God,it's full of stars
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
As some of you may be aware, I'll be shopping for another Fahrvergnugen next year and I'm ambivalent about whether it's going to be a V8 or V10 - going for a 2007 or 2008.

My question is as follows. I've got 30+ years of working on cars as a hobby and drag racing in my late teens but I've never worked on diesels. Being 400 miles from a stealer I wouldn't patronize anyway, what's the learning going to be? Any special tools to add to my 10K plus I already have? Thanx for any pointers

siberian
 
If the question pertains to the V10 TDI, then a "special tool" that I would really suggest you add to your 10K collection, so that it would make repairs/replacement feasable, would be an engine hoist :p

Unless you already have one of course, as 10K in tools is one serious collection!



 
If the question pertains to the V10 TDI, then a "special tool" that I would really suggest you add to your 10K collection, so that it would make repairs/replacement feasable, would be an engine hoist :p

Unless you already have one of course, as 10K in tools is one serious collection!

I think Volkswagendude is right. I don't think there is a ton you can do on the V10 without dropping it. yikes.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Yep, that's what I amassed in my journeys. Metrics for the Porsches I owned (356SC and 911), BMW 728, VW Westphalia and then the ASE tools, OBDII readers, compressor, full set of air tools/chisles/paint, 1,000 bucks plus on rolling cabinets alone, and the list goes on. Nah, got enough friends that have hoists, I was just wondering as to the learning curve going from a gas powered engine to a diesel.

When you say dropping it, I assume lifting it right? Unless it's like the Porsches and Westphalias where indeed you do drop it (preferably onto a jack). Does the unit come out like the Porsches - meaning with the transaxles or do you have to separate them? See? Don't really know squat about them - hey but then again I didn't know much about the VAG-COM a while back either :cool:

Thanx for any guidance from those of you who have the V-10.

siberian
 
You will be dropping the front cross member, suspension bits as well as some other stuff when you pull the motor. It comes out from the bottom, no other way that I have seen yet.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
And how does it separate from the transfer case? Is it as straight forward as the Porsches or old VW buses/bugs?

siberian
 
.... I was just wondering as to the learning curve going from a gas powered engine to a diesel.
I'll write this basic stuff, until the V10 guys chime in with some model specifics.

Having owned VW diesel products for about a decade, I'd say there's nothing really much more to it, when comparing with gassers of before as far as DIY goes. Well for starters, train yourself, especially where you live, to drain the diesel filter of any water. Special tap spout for that. Be slightly more vigilant with what kind of fuel you put into the tank, and when the forecast is for REALLY COLD temps, add a bottle of the PowerService, or Stanadyne(sold at VW dealers here in Canada, perhaps there too), not so much that the engine won't start without it, but it will be smoother and easier to your ears on initial start, and probably better for it too, less wear and tear on the mounts, etc, imho. Obviously, you will never have to worry about plugs, coils, and all that electrical wiring ever ever again, so that is one less thing to worry about big time. Then again, you will now have glow plugs instead, which although they do last a long time, VW has been having some issues with their ceramic glow plugs(tips breaking off and falling into the engine :eek: ) and issued a recall on many of its models(recall was suspended due to bad ECU flash reprogramming, not allowing for very good cold temperature starts last I heard :rolleyes:), although the recall in official VW literature, was based on emissions alone.

Wear glove(s) at some self serve diesel centers, or at least a cotton rag in your trunk, as your hand will stink, and/or mess up your fine leathered steering wheel. But all in all, going back to maintenance on a diesel vehicle, from a gasser, nothing more tool wise that you will need. Generally speaking.

Oh yes. One thing came to mind. When you change your diesel filter. Do some reading up on the right procedure for your particular model (V10 in your case), as air bubbles do have a tendency to get in after disconnecting the old, and installing the new filter. Restarting can be a real bitch at times.



 
siberian, my biggest concern would be fuel quality and cold start abilities. Pesonally I believe that you need to take real good care of any VW diesel's fuel system. My very limited (as you very well know) experience with cold starts worries me on your part. The moment you have to start adding special ingredients to the diesel to stop it from gelling, I'm not sure what happens to the lubricity of the diesel anymore.

Servicing of a diesel vs. petrol is really not an issue. I wear surgical gloves to keep the black stuff off my hands and count my blessings that I don't have to deal with spark plugs and coil packs. Other than that, it's much of a muchness. The V10 engine-out servicing is a special case but hey, power comes at a price.

Daily use in an extreme climate concerns me more, though...

I'm sold on diesels and would probably never in my life drive a petrol engined car again, but you aint me dude and you live in a COOOOOLD place. ;)

PS. OK, "never" is maybe a long time, but I definitely won't go back to natural aspiration again. And the more hairdryers on the engine, the better. :D:D
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Yeti, I forgive you son...

VWDude, thanx for the primer. How easy is it to change the filter? Re. PowerService I think you mean Heet right? A dehumidifier, folks tend to add in case of wide temp fluctuations as you get water in the fuel line. I never used it, but have found a great use for it to light my fondue set. Appreciate the heads up. As time nears, I'll no doubt chime in again with more questions. Thanx again

Andrie, thanx for the advice. We don't have much variety here as far as fuel goes except we pay through the nose for oil that's pumped 500 miles north of here just because environmentalists in California decided we need extra low sulphur. But the price is probably 20 cents more than premium. As far as additives go, Heet is used commonly here on most diesels to prevent gelling. COOOOOLD? Nah from what I hear Lesotho is REAL COLD :cool: :cool: :cool:

Stay warm - we're having an absolute heat wave here with 34F at the house. that's 34 ABOVE. How are we supposed to run our dogs by those temps????
siberian
 
I'm sure SOMEONE in AK has figured out by now how to keep a latest generation common-rail diesel (or PD for that matter) running in the winter months, so maybe I'm just chasing up ghosts.

We use JP8 (which I understand, is JET-A1 with some additives) for our cold weather testing in the climate chamber and it works a treat, but I'm in no hurry to chuck it down my R5's throat.

Stay warm you say...? Taking my folks down Gamkaskloof, better known as The Hell in Dec. Temps can get up to the low 40's (that's Celsius above) in the valley, so I don't think warm would be a problem... ;)

YOU stay warm. 35F is "stay at home cause it's too cold" weather. :cool:
 
My v10 threw a left fuel bank code nearly 3 months ago and since then has lived at the dealership and has had the engine dropped 3x. First for dx purposes, then O2 sensors, and now I'm getting 2 new ECMs and heck it was probably dropped out of habit. it makes me wonder how many things will go wrong after it's been dropped 3x!!!

My point - learn how to drop the engine, it seems you can'tdo much on a v10 without it as a starting point.

I love the way it drives, when it drives and when it doesn't it seems to take weeks to get a part when needed. I look forward to the day I relinquish my "extra" SUV and have faith in my v10 but it's not going to be in 09. I suppose dogs and a sled can be your backup :rolleyes:
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
AndrieK, LOWER 40s Celsius? That's the temperature at which I cold smoke salmon, not something you want to be seen out with. Most folks here (to their dismay) run diesels and pay through the nose for the measly 3-4 extra miles per gal.

4cdndctn: Dogs will always be my back up.

You have to drop the engine to get to the O2 sensors????? Guess I'm seeing the picture, sort of like my old supercharged T-bird: they built the car around the engine (4 hours to change the plugs).

Thanx

siberian
 
The engine assembly drops as a unit with the trans/transfer case. As stated above you'll basically pull the prop-shaft at the trans side, disconnect everything going forward including the top of the uprights from the body shell and drop it complete and intact out the bottom.

Talking to guys at VW on the inside, a mechanically savvy person can definitely do it without the $22k jig that the dealer uses that's basically a giant plate; but it's going to be lots of hours. Plan on 15hr each way for the first time.

As long as you can reset all systems ala Vag-Com after re-install, I don't see anything that's going to require rocket science to deal with. I'd just have a chunk of money set asside so that when you end up dropping the motor you can replace any/all wear items: hoses, PS pump, Alt, sensors and possibly even turbos.

You'd probably have to do it once in 100k assuming all other normal maintenance. The rest is easy relatively speaking..
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Thanx RallyDogRacing. Luckily, I know two great diesel certified mechanics who fix and run all our graters, loaders, cranes etc. and they have even more toys (ahem tools) than I do. So it shouldn't be a problem.

You're right VWDude, I was just corrected by our operator/mechanic as well on site. Heet is for gas engines, Power Service is for diesels (see told you I didn't know squat). Folks here use it regularly with no problem even in the dark, deep winter. Thanx!

siberian
 
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