[Signon]

All done! Thank you very much gentlemen.

The controller tells me there is no trailer attached. So I guess it's working.
For the trailer battery, is it the extra power wire I have that I connect to the battery through pin 2 on the 7 pin plug? I just checked the schematic, so yes it is.
Neil

 

[c4ar]

All done! Thank you very much gentlemen.

The controller tells me there is no trailer attached. So I guess it's working.
For the trailer battery, is it the extra power wire I have that I connect to the battery through pin 2 on the 7 pin plug? I just checked the schematic, so yes it is.
Neil

If you are just using a 7 pin on the trailer side, pin 2 is the go. If you have the full 12 pins (7+5) you also have pin 8 as an option. Just depends on how the trailer is wired.

Also note that the power doesn't go direct to the battery, the Carlisle documentation mentions a "charger".
It's good that the controller says there is no trailer attached (if there isn't one attached ).
As Siberian said, you should also hear the relay click in when you put your foot on the brake.

Good luck with the commissioning and good luck with the fish :dance:

That must be a decent sized boat if you have a breakaway system.

 

[Signon]

Relay clicks!
I'm not sure what the trailer wiring looks like. I have just looked at the same pics you show. I also just remembered that I have the trailer 'load' module to attach as well. I checked and, well, I'll be. It seems to be fully wired for electric trailer brakes and power.
For the breakaway power I might buy some anderson plugs just in case.
The boat is an '09 Wittley CR2590. It replaces a Whittley 580. It's waiting for me in Brissy.

 

[c4ar]

...
The boat is an '09 Wittley CR2590. It replaces a Whittley 580. It's waiting for me in Brissy.

Nice ! =P~

 

[siberian]

I just remembered why the "need" for constant power on the Tekonsha. According to the booklet the constant (non switched) 12v supply is to prevent the unit from forgetting the settings and thus having to reset after every shut off.

For the P3 at least this is bogus. It does remember even if you don't supply a constant source of power. To avoid any other potential source of battery drain, I connected mine to a switched source and it works fine without the potential battery drain problem associated with a permanent live connection.

siberian

 

[Signon]

Towed my boat over 600km to home yesterday.The prodigy worked like a charm. Some minor adjustment of the boost because of the wet roads in Brisbane. The car handled it well. 8.5l/100 on the way down and went to 15.5 coming home. I reckon it would of been higher if I'd have zeroed the outputs for the trip home. I found that if I turned off the cruise control I could get better economy and a smoother ride.

The P3 turns itself off after some time. I've put mine under the dash just off my right knee and used the quick release.

 

[c4ar]

I'll say it again, nice :clapclap:

With the current weather I'm surprised you didn't fly down and cruise back in the boat.

 

[Signon]

I had a fairly good weather window. Pouring in Brisbane and just a bit of drizzle elsewhee on the way back north. The gps took me on a short cut around west of Gympie and the roads were empty but narrow and then oh, what's this. Dirt for about 10km. That didn't save any time at all. Now need to get the boat serviced and in the water.

 

[Darren02]

Hi guys, I think I have read and re-read every brake controller thread and still have some questions. I have a 2009 TDI with factory tow kit and we have a new boat >2.5 tonne on it's way with electric over hydraulic brakes. A mate is doing the controller install for me next weekend and has obtained a P3 and I have the wires and plug from VW. The trailer is coming from the US and the manufacturer said he has pre wired with a "flat 12 pin connector".

My questions are:

1. The brake actuator also needs a 12v supply I assume there is nothing to tap into down the back of the car and we'll have to run a new wire from the front - is this best done via a wire tapped fuse as c4ar mentioned earlier in this thread?


2. the car currently has a round 7 pin so we'll have to replace it a flat 12 pin. Will the flat 12 pin still allow us to connect a flat 7 pin for towing our other trailer?

3. I know nothing about relays, what is the best (not noisy) type to use?

thanks

Darren

 

[c4ar]

1. The brake actuator also needs a 12v supply I assume there is nothing to tap into down the back of the car and we'll have to run a new wire from the front - is this best done via a wire tapped fuse as c4ar mentioned earlier in this thread?

Don't know if there is a 12V aux supply on the standard VW plug (I don't have one). Even if there is, it may only be activated when the trailer is attached.
Where you access the 12 V supply would depend on what the maximum load is. I think wire tap fuses go up to 20A. You can also use an in-line fuse with a spade connector inserted at the fuse box. I find this better because if the fuse blows you can replace it with a regular fuse. If a wire tapped fuse blows you need to get another wire tapped fuse.

2. the car currently has a round 7 pin so we'll have to replace it a flat 12 pin. Will the flat 12 pin still allow us to connect a flat 7 pin for towing our other trailer?

Yes

3. I know nothing about relays, what is the best (not noisy) type to use?

Usually smaller = quieter.
For this application there is minimal load on the contacts so you can use a small relay.
If it's still too noisy you can always wrap it up in foam/rubber.

 

[Ewie]

Darren02
My factory fitted towbar came wired from the trailermodule with a Blue wire to pin 5 on the plug, so if yours is factory fitted I would expect that you aready have power to the electric brake circuit via the round plug. Just get a 7 round to 7 flat converter. You need the brake controller to be fitted before you get power to pin 5 via the trailer module.

 

[c4ar]

Hi Ewhen,
The blue wire provides the braking signal.
In addition to this Darren needs a continuous 12V supply for the electric over hydraulic braking system.

 

[wvdearbeck]

prodigy break controller install

thanks to all who contributed to information on installing a breakcontroller. would never have known where the wiring harness was. found it easily by removing black cover over gas and brake pedals and using flashlight up behind dash. wiring was cut and dry, whole install took bout 20 minutes.

 

[p1973rsr911]

Looking for the 4-pin connector in a 2012 TDI Sport

I have a 2012 (built January 2012) Touareg TDI Sport with factory tow package installed. The trailer lights work fine so I am assuming that I must have a connector for a brake controller. So I took off the left side (drivers) fuse panel cover and removed the kick panel on the driver's side. I looked around but did not find any 4 pin foam wrapped connectors. Has anyone with a 2012 Sport found the brake controller connector? Attached are some pictures of the fuse panel with the fuse panel removed and a shot under the dash. Can anyone see anything in the pictures? Note that the OBDII and foot well connectors are detached.

 

[wvdearbeck]

I found the following method works well. Remove the black plastic panel that covers the gas and break pedals. You may have to remove the lower dash panel below steering wheel to get at the screws that hold black panel up in place. once done, lay on your back and look up into the back part of dash, should see it tucked into a grey foam sleave. this method also gives you the best shot at plugging in the plastic vw housing. jerry

 

[p1973rsr911]

Is the item circled in red what you are calling the lower dash panel?

I was able to find the fasteners on the left side of the panel, but I could not figure out what releases this panel on the right side. I thought it would be some hidden clips, but I pulled pretty hard and the panel would not release. Don't want to break it.

 

[wvdearbeck]

went out and looked at mine and you should not have to remove any panel other that the black/dark grey piece that covers the area under the dash above your feet when driving. lay on your back with head up by pedals, you will see 2 screws holding the back (towards rear of vehicle) of the black panel. after removing these, pull down the back (towards rear of vehicle), then pull out from the white cylinder like clips, that's all that holds it in. then you will have a clear view up into dash. hope this helps

 

[wvdearbeck]

Additionally, when laying on your back, looking up into back of dash area, the plug is going to be on your right (left side of vehicle) if that makes sense. it will be in a grey foam sleeve, barely visable, and you won't be able to pull it out very much as the vw peeps didn't make it long enough to make it easier on us guys. if you don't see it, reach up and feel around, some vehicles it is really tucked away.

 

[p1973rsr911]

wvdearbeck thank you so much for taking a look at your Touareg.

The picture below is another shot looking up with the panel removed. The area marked with a "1" shows where I have been looking for the connector. I have not found any foam at all. The only thing close was a piece of very thick (>1cm) cloth material used as a buffer between the dash structure (metal bar) and the inside of the dash (hard plastic). Let me know if you see anything in the picture that looks like what you found. I am also open to any other suggestions on where I should look.

 

[wvdearbeck]

looks like you have the right panel removed, i found my connector located (looking up)between brake pedal and back of fuse box. it was way up there, around the top of the fuse box. the grey foam is bout 1 inch in diameter and the plug barely sticks out. like my daughters hand when she wears her sweaters with sleeves too long. if you see any foam sleeve tug on it a little, they may have wedged it up in there.