If you have a V10 the main battery is in the trunk. If not you're out of luck, but on the positive side, you don't have to reprogram the keys

Seriously, why don't you just remove the appropriate fuses?

siberian

 

No certainly no V10. I can remove the fuses but the point is that when rooting around in the dash I'm not just handling wires related to the stereo. Plus the dealer didn't give me a manual so I have no idea what fuses are what. I have an 07 V6 with Base stereo if anyone happens to have fuse diagram.

 

It is two bolts and the seat just tilts back. No need to tear it out of the car at all. It is a perfect location since the vehical can go offroad and ford water crossings. It keeps the battery safe from that.

 

Any direction you can give me here? I'm working blind with no manual.

 

I just didn't bother with it. As long as you use a harness made for the egg, you should not need to do any wiring for a new HU. The only thing you'll do behind the stereo is unplug a harness and plug a new one in place.

Unless you're wiring a new amp, or custom speakers, but even then, just not worth the risk. Have all wiring done before you connect it to the battery and you should be good to go.

 

I just didn't bother with it. As long as you use a harness made for the egg, you should not need to do any wiring for a new HU. The only thing you'll do behind the stereo is unplug a harness and plug a new one in place.

That's what I did....

And regarding disconnecting the battery, the first time is kind of a pain... I think when I replaced my GF's battery a few years ago it took me >1hr... When I did mine a few weeks ago I think it was <30 minutes including modifying the interstate battery to fit

 

This is what you need: Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future That might not be the right model as I don't know what year your egg is. You need two modules like that, one to convert the CAN-BUS system to standard DC for your stereo, and another one (optional) for steering controls. It's definitely worth the money getting the CAN-BUS adapter instead of splicing wires. Search the forum, there's a wealth of info on this.

Regarding the gps antenna, I routed it along w/ mic wire under the steering column. There's a plastic cover underneath that comes off w/ 2 bolts. The column cover on the left has a plug that says "SRS Airbag". Pop it off and you'll see the screw that holds it in place. I then removed the column cover and routed the wire inside it and mounted the mic above the sunshade. The GPS antenna just sits behind the dash by the windshield. No wires showing.

When I say center console, I'm talking about the place w/ the center air vents and hazard light and AC controls. The piece just above the stereo. You won't need to move it if you route the wires the way I did.

 

This is what you need: Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future That might not be the right model as I don't know what year your egg is. You need two modules like that, one to convert the CAN-BUS system to standard DC for your stereo, and another one (optional) for steering controls. It's definitely worth the money getting the CAN-BUS adapter instead of splicing wires. Search the forum, there's a wealth of info on this.

Regarding the gps antenna, I routed it along w/ mic wire under the steering column. There's a plastic cover underneath that comes off w/ 2 bolts. The column cover on the left has a plug that says "SRS Airbag". Pop it off and you'll see the screw that holds it in place. I then removed the column cover and routed the wire inside it and mounted the mic above the sunshade. The GPS antenna just sits behind the dash by the windshield. No wires showing.

When I say center console, I'm talking about the place w/ the center air vents and hazard light and AC controls. The piece just above the stereo. You won't need to move it if you route the wires the way I did.

You're a rockstar and I think you just saved me a bunch of time! This is why I came to this forum!

 

Any recommendation on batteries? Bosch? NAPA a good place to order?

siberian

 

Guys, use the search engine on the site or google using "can-bus adapter site:clubtouareg.com" or something similar and you'll find a plethora of information.

To keep it short, use the can-bus adapter and not the steering wheel adapter. They're two separate modules. If you think it's worth saving 100 in the process of risking ruining your $40k car and your $1k stereo by all means go ahead but come back asking how you can fix the car's ecu with some solder and some radio shack resistors!!

 

Thanks for the input. Your post got me nervous so I went ahead and called PAC. They were very helpful. He verified that since I'm not planning on using my steering wheel controls and I don't have an amplified system it is no problem to just take a tap off of the reverse sensor wire. No resistors needed as far as I know. I may add the steering wheel controls later but it just doesn't seem worth it for volume especially since it's on the right hand side.

 

I used both the can and the steering modules. I am glad I did. The installation was reduced to connecting the wires for the stereo in a comfortable work area, I have the speed sensor connected which makes the navigation unit work even without satellite signal, reverse wire is connected so if I decide to use a camera it's all pre-wired, the dim wire dims the screen at night so it won't get in the way of my driving, all done without the car even being open.

Once I got it all setup, pop the oem stereo off, connect the oem harness to the PAC audio harness slide the new HU in and good to go. None of the oem wiring was modified. The only mod I did was to the aftermarket harness for the parking break override.

Well worth the money for a job well done a d easily done in my opinion. I am curious as to how you guys will wire your stereo without the can adapter though. So make sure to post how you did it.

 

I purchased the Kenwood DNX-6160 with Garmin. I got it through Crutchfield so the Wiriring harness is including.

The wiring harness covers the speakers, ground and ignition I believe. The kit also included a wire tap for constant 12v to use on the fuse box. I may have that swapped but I will know when I call the tech staff back at crutchfield. Those guys are great.

So on the Kenwood I am then left with these wires to connect/not connect.

• Parking Sensor - This I will simply ground out as I hate my wife not being able to punch in an address while on the road. The crutchfield guys wouldn't tell me how to do it just that it wasn't a big deal or detrimental to the unit. There's tons of explanations on the web though.
• Reverse Sensor - I will use a wire tap. As I understand this is a Red/Yellow wire located on pin 20 of a 26 pin connector located directly above the accelerator. This should be fairly simple.
• Dimmer Control - This will likely remain unconnected. Not sure about this one. The crutchfield guys say to leave it disconnected. The PAC guy never mentioned dimming control but you say you have it? I also have read all literature on the CAN and can't find any mentions of dimming.
• Steering Remote - This will remain unconnected.
• Mute Control - This will remain disconnected as I will be using the model with built-in bluetooth.
• Motor Antenna - N/A
• Power Controle Wire - N/A

 

For the steering wheel controls you'll need a SWIX

siberian

 

This is what I got:
Axxess Digital Interfaces
Axxess XSVI-90003-NAV

I grounded the parking sensor wire to have nav access while driving.

The speed sensor wire was connected to the HU and I noticed it helps it navigate when I lose sat. signal. You don't need it, but it doesn't hurt to connect it either. Some stereos will raise the volume as you increase in speed, mine doesn't and I miss that feature from the OEM HU.

The reverse sensor will only be used if you get a backup camera.

The dimmer is not really a dimmer. All it does is tell the HU when the headlights are on. On mine I could use the settings in the HU to ignore this signal. I really like the fact that when it is night time, the screen dims so it's not as bright and get in the way of my driving, once it's day time, it brightens to compensate for glare.

I the steering control module from Axxess as well and used it for the steering remote. This, along w/ the other wires will be disconnected on yours.

Again, I liked paying the $50 to not have to tap any wires as this unit gave me switched power and a constant 12v power. Just keep in mind that in the egg the power sent to the HU is a digital signal, not a simple DC connection (it's what it's called the CAN-BUS) so you need something to convert that signal to straight DC.

 

This is what I got:
Axxess Digital Interfaces
Axxess XSVI-90003-NAV

I grounded the parking sensor wire to have nav access while driving.

The speed sensor wire was connected to the HU and I noticed it helps it navigate when I lose sat. signal. You don't need it, but it doesn't hurt to connect it either. Some stereos will raise the volume as you increase in speed, mine doesn't and I miss that feature from the OEM HU.

The reverse sensor will only be used if you get a backup camera.

The dimmer is not really a dimmer. All it does is tell the HU when the headlights are on. On mine I could use the settings in the HU to ignore this signal. I really like the fact that when it is night time, the screen dims so it's not as bright and get in the way of my driving, once it's day time, it brightens to compensate for glare.

I the steering control module from Axxess as well and used it for the steering remote. This, along w/ the other wires will be disconnected on yours.

Again, I liked paying the $50 to not have to tap any wires as this unit gave me switched power and a constant 12v power. Just keep in mind that in the egg the power sent to the HU is a digital signal, not a simple DC connection (it's what it's called the CAN-BUS) so you need something to convert that signal to straight DC.

This is all greaet info and thank you. Essentially I won't be using any of the CAN-BUS data on to hook up to my new HU. Once unhooked it will remain that way at least for now. The kenwood has no speed wire to use and the reverse is 12v on the EGG side rather than the digital signal. The only digital signal I will be missing besides the steering controls will be the dimmer. I may install the CAN-BUS later but pushed the spending as far as I can for now and the wife won't have it!