There are over a dozen places online that say they will rebuild your ECM like AES provides ECU ECM TCM PCM BCM Control Modules Automotive Electionic Solutions Main and ECU/ECM/TCM/BCM/ICM Rebuilding Service and Auto Computer Systems - quality auto ecu, tcu, & ebcm units,engine control units/modules/computers(ECU,ECM,ECC) & transmission control units(TCU,TCM,TCC to name a few. They say they can rebuild it for about $400. Has anyone tried that? It would sure save the cost and hassle of dealer key reprogramming if the original code was retained.
Anyone had a Kessy module rebuilt?
atikovi
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Thanks for the reply guys, but I was trying to get it done last night and I botched the thing. I MIGHT be able to repair it, but it's not very likely. So, it kind of looks like I have to bite the bullet and go with the "stealership". I called and they said the labor would cost me $300 and the kessy module would cost me $725. It's coming from Germany. I asked them if I can bring in a kessy module and have them program it and they said no. I really want to get the unit from ECS tuning. Any ideas as to what I should say to them? Something like "I have a unit that I need re-programmed".
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Oh, and does anyone know how I can get my PIN from my old Kessy unit and the new one if I buy one?
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Does anyone have a kessy unit they can ship overnight? I'm willing to pay to get it to me by tomorrow.
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whitey169,I`m willing to try if you haven`t had it done yet. I`m an installer ,and I`m willing to help you out. The only thing I can do is replace the parts that are in this thread(Also test all the resistors to see if they are needed). I can`t guarantee anything,that`s the only drawback. But if you really need it done(Truck don`t start,etc.),It`s worth a try and expense of shipping costs. Let me know. (PM me)
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Checked all the door handles Via Vag-com. All good. Wondering about the antennas. Anybody know how to check them? Where they are located,etc. ,Anything? I`m only having a problem with the door lock buttons on the handles not working. Everything(Except a battery draw) seems ok. Thanks in advance!
jcmuscarello,
Battery draw and buttons not working sounds like bad mosfetts.
If the remote in your pocket allows you to unlock the door by pulling the handle then the antennas are fine (From what I understand the antennas are located in each handle).
Battery draw and buttons not working sounds like bad mosfetts.
If the remote in your pocket allows you to unlock the door by pulling the handle then the antennas are fine (From what I understand the antennas are located in each handle).
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I kept seeing everyone referring to the antennas being in the bumpers . I need to get a hold of a manual or a "Touareg for dummies" book! I'm not sure exactly how it's supposed to work. It did amaze me that there are sensors in the door handles that see your hand inside it. Maybe that's what you're talking about. I tested it with the Vag-com. And they both work ( buttons and sensors).
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Oh, and it only unlocks with me pushing the button on the remote (Fob). The handle buttons or double pulling the handle doesn't work. (Double pulling on the intereier handle works , but that is mechanical.)
Door handles
I am in the process of sorting out the exact same issue with my dealer. Only one of my handles does not work, the other three work as expected.
So far I have replaced the Kessy unit at the dealer ($1000) total. The problem persisted but the dealer thought it was the KESSY programming. I was told the battery draw test was only 40mw.
They had a guy reflash my KESSY with an updated "certificate". The guy connected remotely from across the country to reflash it. I'v be had the car now for 5 days and to my surprise it has not died. The handle still does not work but the battery is holding. Maybe the new flash allows the KESSY to enter sleep mode regardless of a poor signal from one of the handles.
I'll let you know how it goes but maybe it is in the programming of the KESSY.
I am in the process of sorting out the exact same issue with my dealer. Only one of my handles does not work, the other three work as expected.
So far I have replaced the Kessy unit at the dealer ($1000) total. The problem persisted but the dealer thought it was the KESSY programming. I was told the battery draw test was only 40mw.
They had a guy reflash my KESSY with an updated "certificate". The guy connected remotely from across the country to reflash it. I'v be had the car now for 5 days and to my surprise it has not died. The handle still does not work but the battery is holding. Maybe the new flash allows the KESSY to enter sleep mode regardless of a poor signal from one of the handles.
I'll let you know how it goes but maybe it is in the programming of the KESSY.
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Please do, this is confusing. I have to get a manuel soon so I can figure these things out better. Thanks for replying! The dealers don't seem to want to help unless you're spending. Then Sometimes they don't even know. Almost better off going to an Audi dealer. From what I know they are Audi engines too.
I own Audis but my Audi dealer couldn't help. They told me I'd have to go to the VW dealer to resolve the issue
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Figures.
The antennas in the bumpers I believe are for the remote signal to lock/unlock the doors with the push of the button (or the panic button). The antennas in each door/door handle are a proxy antenna of sorts that enable the lock/unlock using the door handle when the key is within range of that door.
For example, if I walk up to the touareg with the key in my pocket on the drivers side and my wife walks up on the passenger side (or a bad guy depending on how you look at it) I will be able to unlock my door but the passenger side will not.
This confirms that you have a kessy problem (again probably MOSFETs and/or resistors on the board). While a kessy module replacement will also fix the problem it is much, much cheaper to have new components replaced on the board (which is what this thread is all about).
Sounds like it is a bad antenna in the door handle. It could be a bad button and sensor also but more than likely a bad antenna. I don't recall anyone that has been able to repair a handle yet and I have not had mine apart to see what's in there. I've got one handle that's intermittent but it's a back door so I just try not to use it much, or open another door first and have my convenience setting set to unlock all doors upon the unlock signal.
You don't have the year of your touareg listed but there was an updated set of handles at some point in time that required a new KESSY module, I'm guessing you have a new style since they didn't replace all your handles when replacing the KESSY.
I think a person (or shop) can monitor the button push on the handle, the sensing of the hand in the handle, and whether the KESSY senses the key at the door (testing the antenna in the handle) using a VAG-COM. I'm sorry to say, but the shop you had replace the KESSY should have done this before paying out the big bucks to replace it.
Prior to replacing the KESSY none of the handles worked. Only now is the problem limited to the driver side rear one. I also hear a small "pop" when I press the button but it does not lock or unlock. I think it is shorting out.
Can you describe how to disconnect the antenna at the door in the event I still experience the dreaded draw?
Update. So far the battery has not died now about a week out after having the KESSY replaced and a new "certificate" flash. I still have one handle that does not work. The button does not lock or unlock the car and the proximity function does not work. I'm not sure if the antenna is faulty (will have to throw my VAG-COM on to see) but I'm sure the button is no good.
I've been watching the voltage meter each morning just prior to starting. It has basically held at 12.5V with the ignition on and the car off. When it used to drain it would drop down to 12V or lower. After running the car for a while (fully charged) the battery will read 13.5V with ignition on but car off. I still wonder if there is a slight drain but maybe it is within normal limits.
I've been watching the voltage meter each morning just prior to starting. It has basically held at 12.5V with the ignition on and the car off. When it used to drain it would drop down to 12V or lower. After running the car for a while (fully charged) the battery will read 13.5V with ignition on but car off. I still wonder if there is a slight drain but maybe it is within normal limits.
eyelise,
I tried getting you a copy of the handle disassemble but just didn't get a good copy last night. It pretty much looks like you'd have to take off the door panel to unplug the wiring harness. That might not be a bad idea since I am suspicious that a bad handle (or short) causes the MOSFETs (or the associated diodes) in the KESSY module to go bad which which causes the battery drain. I hate for you to mess up another module with the handle that doesn't work but this is only speculation.
I tried getting you a copy of the handle disassemble but just didn't get a good copy last night. It pretty much looks like you'd have to take off the door panel to unplug the wiring harness. That might not be a bad idea since I am suspicious that a bad handle (or short) causes the MOSFETs (or the associated diodes) in the KESSY module to go bad which which causes the battery drain. I hate for you to mess up another module with the handle that doesn't work but this is only speculation.
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Just for some additional speculation, you may find that clearing any existing codes with your vag-com will help any remaining issues.
I had my module repaired (new MOSFETs) and it still acted a little quirky until I cleared the codes -- and even for a few days after that. It can still act up on occasion, but I get close to 100% functionality these days.
If clearing codes doesn't help, I too recommend disconnecting the antenna and just using the other door handles for locking/unlocking. Or replace that antenna if you don't mind dropping some more $ into this problem.
Also, 12.5V at the start of the day is completely within spec, and as long as it starts up without hesitation, I wouldn't be worried about that at all. However, if the battery has been run down a bunch of times, that will shorten your battery life; car batteries just aren't made for handling lots if deep cycles. Just FYI.
Good luck!
I had my module repaired (new MOSFETs) and it still acted a little quirky until I cleared the codes -- and even for a few days after that. It can still act up on occasion, but I get close to 100% functionality these days.
If clearing codes doesn't help, I too recommend disconnecting the antenna and just using the other door handles for locking/unlocking. Or replace that antenna if you don't mind dropping some more $ into this problem.
Also, 12.5V at the start of the day is completely within spec, and as long as it starts up without hesitation, I wouldn't be worried about that at all. However, if the battery has been run down a bunch of times, that will shorten your battery life; car batteries just aren't made for handling lots if deep cycles. Just FYI.
Good luck!
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Soldering tip: To remove the MOSFETs I used a heat gun with a precision tip (a hole of about 1/2 in" diameter). Clamp the board so it is upright and sitting tight. Take a hemostat and clip onto the MOSFET you are removing. Take the heat gun and shoot the back of the board where the MOSFET mounts. Be very careful not to melt the board. It should come off way before that point but still be careful. The heat gun I used goes up to 1500 degrees F. It took about 10 seconds to come off. I also used the same technique for soldering on the new ones.
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