[999yards]

Are you using the factory hpfp? If not, attach pics and aerial information of the exact one on your car.

I'll check on that. The car came with extensive service records. There was no replacement of the HPFP paperwork, I'll assume it's a factory pump. I'll post a picture of it later today.

Just checked, it appears to be factory.

 

[Brendanm]

So you have even compression on both banks, lowish numbers likely due to the gauge. Your in cylinder pressure seems high, have you tried disconnecting the in cylinder pressure sensor and running it? Do you have any other fault codes?

 

[999yards]

So you have even compression on both banks, lowish numbers likely due to the gauge. Your in cylinder pressure seems high, have you tried disconnecting the in cylinder pressure sensor and running it? Do you have any other fault codes?

Yes even compression at around 320psi.

The fault codes are injector contribution faults. No fuel pressure faults. I installed the flapper valve removal kit, around March, from Darkside and it ran fine afterwards. I had not deleted the removal from the software yet I don't Consider them to be a contributing factor as they were not beforehand.

It did show a cam position sensor code intermittent back in February. It was cleared and never cam back. This too was before any work was done.



I have not disconnected the cylinder pressure sensor run it. I did replace it with a new one though, still shows cylinder pressure. I'm not certain what it shows after the new injector was installed this past weekend. It did fire up and idle but showed same symptoms as before.

The fuel injectors, though worn I'm sure, posted good numbers before the job. A fuel system failure while the engine isn't running seems unlikely. I have another head for the engine.

My plan forward from here is to have all of the injectors tested and pay someone (a professional) to assemble the head just to eliminate anything I may have done wrong.

Thank you

 

[volkswagens-for-life]

Yes even compression at around 320psi.

The fault codes are injector contribution faults. No fuel pressure faults. I installed the flapper valve removal kit, around March, from Darkside and it ran fine afterwards. I had not deleted the removal from the software yet I don't Consider them to be a contributing factor as they were not beforehand.

It did show a cam position sensor code intermittent back in February. It was cleared and never cam back. This too was before any work was done.



I have not disconnected the cylinder pressure sensor run it. I did replace it with a new one though, still shows cylinder pressure. I'm not certain what it shows after the new injector was installed this past weekend. It did fire up and idle but showed same symptoms as before.

The fuel injectors, though worn I'm sure, posted good numbers before the job. A fuel system failure while the engine isn't running seems unlikely. I have another head for the engine.

My plan forward from here is to have all of the injectors tested and pay someone (a professional) to assemble the head just to eliminate anything I may have done wrong.

Thank you

Why you trickle feeding us information?? If you've deleted the swirl flaps you must get retuned.

 

[999yards]

Why you trickle feeding us information?? If you've deleted the swirl flaps you must get retuned.

Why? It ran fine without the new tune after the delete. I drove it around for months with the flapper delete.

I do know that it needed to be re-tuned. My plan was to do all of the work then delete the emissions components with Malone or Kerma.
Though Darkside doesn't call it a retune, they just delete the components from the software so that there is no code. The car will run fine with no computer work, but the light will be on. Of course I'm not a professional, this is what I've read from Darkside.

Are you suggesting that the flapper delete is now the issue? Or could be?

 

[volkswagens-for-life]

Why? It ran fine without the new tune after the delete. I drove it around for months with the flapper delete.

I do know that it needed to be re-tuned. My plan was to do all of the work then delete the emissions components with Malone or Kerma.
Though Darkside doesn't call it a retune, they just delete the components from the software so that there is no code. The car will run fine with no computer work, but the light will be on. Of course I'm not a professional, this is what I've read from Darkside.

Are you suggesting that the flapper delete is now the issue? Or could be?

I'm not sure, I would never delete a component directly involved with fuel or air without a retune. I'm also saying that your car was not zeroed out before you started tearing into it so you have old problems and potentially new problems all compounding.

 

[hutchman]

Lol. Awesome. I'm certain I can rebuild them myself. Stay tuned..

Yes the car does idle, roughly.

If there are some folks you'd recommend from around here (site vendors) to send my injector to I'm all ears. I'd be blindly picking from the phone book.

I discovered you can find remaned ones that were done by VW/Audi. Mine are fine but when the time comes that's what I have my eye on.

 

[Dannyboy485]

I discovered you can find remaned ones that were done by VW/Audi. Mine are fine but when the time comes that's what I have my eye on.

VW/Audi doesn't make/rebuild injectors, Bosch is the OE supplier of rebuilt/new injectors. Most of the fuel system is built by bosch and/or continental. You just pay extra for the logo stamp.

I don't have a major problem with rebuilds but the price difference is that small it pays to buy new.
I've dealt with enough rebuilds to know you end up with a mixed bag. Some work completely fine while some crap the bed short after warranty expires

 

[hutchman]

VW/Audi doesn't make/rebuild injectors, Bosch is the OE supplier of rebuilt/new injectors. Most of the fuel system is built by bosch and/or continental. You just pay extra for the logo stamp.

I don't have a major problem with rebuilds but the price difference is that small it pays to buy new.
I've dealt with enough rebuilds to know you end up with a mixed bag. Some work completely fine while some crap the bed short after warranty expires

All I know is I've seen them several places and was a bit skeptical in them so I asked ECS Tuning who rebuilds them and they said they come from VW/Audi and are certified good.

And I'd kind of lean toward these over new cause they have been hand tested by a human and had more "individual attention" than something off the assembly line. I've been associated with manufacturing my whole life (electronics) so I know a little something about how the process goes in general.

 

[999yards]

Fak, I hope not.... I don't have that kind of disposable income!
Quit pissing around... use the Bosch locator to find an authorized shop to deal with...

Home - Choose the Right Injector - Liferay DXP

www.choosetherightinjector.com

Update.

New injectors installed. Dpf was so clogged water wouldn't pass through. With DPF off, the car will idle for about 15 seconds then die. It will not start again until the next day. This is exactly what it would do with the DPF on as well.

The rpm Guage jumps around during the 15 or 20 seconds but the idle seems fine. Really sucks to wait all this time and still have an issue.

These are the only fault codes I'm getting. That cylinder 2 pressure sensor will not go away. Been there from the beginning.

It feels as if the car isn't getting fuel or air.



I wish I had better news.

 

[Dannyboy485]

I'd check the 'throttle' intake flap is actually staying open. Remove the boost hose and see if its staying open. That would definitely choke out the motor.
It's pointing slightly downwards so you might need mirror and flashlight.
Can't remember if it will cause the motor not to run but you can unplug it temporarily to see if it allows engine to run for longer

 

[999yards]

I'd check the 'throttle' intake flap is actually staying open. Remove the boost hose and see if its staying open. That would definitely choke out the motor.
It's pointing slightly downwards so you might need mirror and flashlight.
Can't remember if it will cause the motor not to run but you can unplug it temporarily to see if it allows engine to run for longer

Thank you very much. I'll try that tomorrow and report back. It certainly feels like it is being starved for air.

I've been away from this for about a month or so waiting on injectors. Very discouraging to say the least.

 

[Brendanm]

Not sure why you replaced injectors. Did you try running it with cylinder pressure sensor disconnected yet?

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

I know I'm quite intoxicated at the moment, but why the hell are you reading codes in generic OBD mode?

 

[999yards]

I'd check the 'throttle' intake flap is actually staying open. Remove the boost hose and see if its staying open. That would definitely choke out the motor.
It's pointing slightly downwards so you might need mirror and flashlight.
Can't remember if it will cause the motor not to run but you can unplug it temporarily to see if it allows engine to run for longer

Will do that today. Thank you. It does feel and sound as if it is getting starved for air. After about 15 seconds the rpms start dying off all the way to shutting down it will not respond to throttle once it begins dying off.

Thanks. I'll be reporting back this afternoon.

 

[999yards]

Not sure why you replaced injectors. Did you try running it with cylinder pressure sensor disconnected yet?

Because it was suggested that I have them tested, I did and four of them were bad.

No I don't think I've disconnected the #2 glowpug and ran it yet. I did replace the old one with a new one.

 

[999yards]

I know I'm quite intoxicated at the moment, but why the hell are you reading codes in generic OBD mode?

1.
Because I never clicked on that tab before and it showed a condensed list that was on the auto scan. Just easier to consolidate for a screen shot.
2.
Because I really don't know what I'm doing with the VCDS other than reading auto scan and and priming the fuel system.

 

[Brendanm]

Because it was suggested that I have them tested, I did and four of them were bad.

That didn't magically happen after you had the head removed and did a bunch of other random stuff. That doesn't cause a massive imbalance between banks that wasn't there before.

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

1.
Because I never clicked on that tab before and it showed a condensed list that was on the auto scan. Just easier to consolidate for a screen shot.
2.
Because I really don't know what I'm doing with the VCDS other than reading auto scan and and priming the fuel system.

Quit doing random crap and either learn how to use the diagnostic tool you have by reading its manual or post full autoscan instead of your consolidations and follow advice you receive to the letter instead of loading up the parts cannon indefinitely.

There are a few users around here that will give you sound direction but everyone needs to understand the exact mess you're dealing with, so tell all, and give full details.

 

[999yards]

Quit doing random crap and either learn how to use the diagnostic tool you have by reading its manual or post full autoscan instead of your consolidations and follow advice you receive to the letter instead of loading up the parts cannon indefinitely.

There are a few users around here that will give you sound direction but everyone needs to understand the exact mess you're dealing with, so tell all, and give full details.

So if I post a full auto scan you'll know whats wrong? I tried that over at the Ross Tech site and no one responded. I'll try to post up another auto scan

The advice to check and replace the injectors if needed came from you I'm pretty sure. And it was good advice as a few of them, I'm told, were bad.

What else can I tell you about this thing? It idles well for about 15 seconds and shuts down as if someone stuffed a jacket over the intake. The rest of the history you know already.