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Discussion starter · #86 ·
View attachment 265266

If you have pressure sensors on #2 and #5, how would you see a reading on anything other than #2 if you're looking at cylinders 1-4?
View attachment 265267
If you'll notice I didn't post number 5 because I only had six spaces. The bank read all zeros so I didn't bother. I'll recheck that as its been a while now.

I just checked compression on cylinder #2 (all I have time for today)

The Guage is holding right at 320 psi.
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
View attachment 265266

If you have pressure sensors on #2 and #5, how would you see a reading on anything other than #2 if you're looking at cylinders 1-4?
View attachment 265267
I don't see my last reply.

I looked at all of the cylinders. Those are the only ones I have access to at the moment. However, I don't recall seeing any pressure reading for cylinder number 5. No code for it either. There was a #2 pressure sensor code, it was replaced.

Checked the cylinder compression on #2. Its holding steady at 320psi.
 
Discussion starter · #90 ·
You are on the "wear limit" for compression according to vw. Check the other bank.
I plan too.

I noticed also that cylinder #2 glow plug was saturated while cylinder #1 plug was dry and somewhat light gray'ish.
White smoke and a rough idle... maybe with compression being at a lower limit combined with a bad injector the results are a little more drastic than a bad injector on a less worn cylinder.

Seems like if a compression check reveals that all cylinders are close but at minute spec. then having my injectors replaced or rebuilt (leaning towards rebuilt) would be my next order of operations.
 
You say it smokes.
You pull a GP out of #2 and it's soaked. What does that tell you? Injector is dumping fuel, or stuck, or leaky!
Your VCDS shows crazy offset on that same cylinder..... kinda validates the injector condition above.
You need to check injectors according to FSM....
Also note, that CR injectors aren't rebuildable by mere mortals.... do your homework before you throw a lot more money away.
 
Discussion starter · #93 ·
You say it smokes.
You pull a GP out of #2 and it's soaked. What does that tell you? Injector is dumping fuel, or stuck, or leaky!
Your VCDS shows crazy offset on that same cylinder..... kinda validates the injector condition above.
You need to check injectors according to FSM....
Also note, that CR injectors aren't rebuildable by mere mortals.... do your homework before you throw a lot more money away.
Lol. Awesome. I'm certain I can rebuild them myself. Stay tuned..

Yes the car does idle, roughly.

If there are some folks you'd recommend from around here (site vendors) to send my injector to I'm all ears. I'd be blindly picking from the phone book.
 
If it were mine, I'd only buy new, and only what I needed..... assuming that I was still in it by this point.....
I can't even think about what you've already sunk into it up to this point.....
I strongly suggest that you check the current injectors according to the manual... with a flow meter and everything....
You've rolled the dice on some costly parts already.... start doing thing the correct way now, while you still have some money left.... you'll run out soon with your current approach.

I don't know anyone who rebuilds these... I've heard of companies on the other side of the pond but don't have any first hand experience. Ask @Dannyboy485 as I believe he's recently replaced his injectors, but I think that was on a CNRB.... but he may have a "source".

Here's what a new unit will run you.... I doubt you want to load up 6 of those into your parts cannon!
You also need to verify those compression numbers... you might already be trying to restore a paperweight !
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
Also check out this master tech guy's post from a few years back... I recall asking him a bunch of stuff, and he appeared to have some insider knowledge of where to get parts from, etc.... maybe he can help you out if he's still around.
2011 TDi injectors
Ok. New it is. Very much appreciated. One day you guys will be asking me for answers....lol
 
If it were mine, I'd only buy new, and only what I needed..... assuming that I was still in it by this point.....
I can't even think about what you've already sunk into it up to this point.....
I strongly suggest that you check the current injectors according to the manual... with a flow meter and everything....
You've rolled the dice on some costly parts already.... start doing thing the correct way now, while you still have some money left.... you'll run out soon with your current approach.

I don't know anyone who rebuilds these... I've heard of companies on the other side of the pond but don't have any first hand experience. Ask @Dannyboy485 as I believe he's recently replaced his injectors, but I think that was on a CNRB.... but he may have a "source".

Here's what a new unit will run you.... I doubt you want to load up 6 of those into your parts cannon!
You also need to verify those compression numbers... you might already be trying to restore a paperweight !
I bought 6 injectors from ID parts when they were $320 a piece. I bought them for insurance as a couple were borderline and another two had tapered nozzles.

I'm 100% in agreement that he should buy new. Piezo's have now and again got a reputation for failing open.

For the price there isn't much difference so buying new is piece of mind. The only rebuilds I trust is mechanical pop injectors if they are rebuilt and shimed correctly.
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
Also check out this master tech guy's post from a few years back... I recall asking him a bunch of stuff, and he appeared to have some insider knowledge of where to get parts from, etc.... maybe he can help you out if he's still around.
2011 TDi injectors
Thanks. Update.

All cylinders are right at 320psi, within 5psi each. I bought a new injector for number 2 cylinder. Installed and entered the new number.

Injectors still show the same performance.

I noticed the fuel consumption at idle is at 4.35 L/hr. Its definitely loading up with fuel.

And of course the fuel pressure numbers but I don't know what the proper fuel pressure numbers should be. I don't know but I'm getting the feeling its a simple pressure issue?
There are no sediments in the fuel filter or filter housing.
 

Attachments

Are you using the factory hpfp? If not, attach pics and aerial information of the exact one on your car.
 
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