I know you will need to do an alignment but other than that, you shouldn't need anything as far as programming. The level control module is in the trunk. Hopefully someone else can chime in as I dont know if you need to do depressurize anything. Good luck, hopefully the new shock comes soon!

 

work cleaner than a neuro surgeon.

Strut has to be pressurised before fitment.

No coding needed but do alignment afterwards.

 

What is all the bronze coloured stuff on the strut?
Was there a lot of oil about as it looks like it?
If there was did it come from the strut as maybe the shock part is stuffed also and has been leaking its oil?

You should do a ride height calibration just to reset the heights and make sure the bag explosion did not damage the little height sensor.

Yes a wheel alignment is a must

Cannot see why you would need to pressurizes the strut before install as that would make it hard to fit. Just don't put any real weight on the strut till you get it up to height.

Regards
Drag

 

What is all the bronze coloured stuff on the strut?
Was there a lot of oil about as it looks like it?
If there was did it come from the strut as maybe the shock part is stuffed also and has been leaking its oil?

You should do a ride height calibration just to reset the heights and make sure the bag explosion did not damage the little height sensor.

Yes a wheel alignment is a must

Cannot see why you would need to pressurizes the strut before install as that would make it hard to fit. Just don't put any real weight on the strut till you get it up to height.

Regards
Drag

Because VW says so

See the yellow highlighted part

The hot link in that statement is attached as PDF

 

Having personally changed 4 of these struts and they were not my dads with 100% success the VW procedure is all about not kinking the bellows and causing a future weak spot. Hence the don't put weight on it till it is pumped up direction. VW has many procedures with lots of special tooling that many resourceful mechanics have found real world ways around. If he wants to pay for VW to do it by the book which most probably would not anyway or if he was doing it himself have a go and you will succeed. Just don't get under the car while its supported on a jack.

Regards
Drag

 

I agree that the reasoning is to eliminate kinks for future issues but it is worth mentioning these things to ensure the highest chance of success for a DIY repair.

 

cool some good advice coming here chaps thanks. also found a video on youtube of a guy Replacing a Front Air Spring on Cayenne, Touareg, Q7 with New Arnott-Designed Air Spring. looks nice and easy o be honest. I will defiantly not put all the weight on that corner until air is in the spring.
The colour on the shock is just a bit of light rust it wet because it is hammering it down today and some deep puddle around where i live.
here is a link to the vid

 

This was definitely my worst fear in the last couple years of owning my 2004 with Air Suspension. I had to replace the right front strut as it started cracking. Luckily I caught it before it popped. I assume you've inspected the other struts to make sure they're in healthy condition?

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f44/air-suspension-cracking-80910.html

 

Yeah when I get to work on it next few days will be looking at the other struts to see if they are ok. Need to do the rear discs and pads also so perfect opportunity really.

 

The air inlet on the front struts is a well known point of failure on the Touareg.

The two different types of metal corrode when sprayed with salt on our roads and the valve snaps off.

Best to carefully clean and, if in good order, lard with a bit of thick grease twice a year, autumn and spring.

 

Well got the strut out today, also why I was at it, I did the rear pads and discs(rotors), so while I was doing that I also checked all the other shocks over and they all seamed fine. New air spring should be here by Friday at the cost of £250 coming from Germany. VW here in the UK quoted £1450+vat(vat=20%) and would take 10 days so I thought I'll give that a miss.
Would be nice to know why they fail in this way, it's almost like the air bag over inflates and burst through the metal.

 

My front right just popped 1 hour ago and here I am joining the discussion. What happened to me was the metal sleeve that holds the bag together failed first and cracked wide open and then the bag went literary 2 minutes after it. I think that the metal ages and developed cracks that are put under further pressure by the bag and eventually fail.

I am trying to figure out the part number for it so that I purchase the correct one from ebay. Does anyone know what the part number is?

Model Year: 2004
Engine: 4.2 V8

Also Ryan, did you need to replace any other parts such as air line fittings? Any issues to look out for when replacing it?

Thanks in advance
Hristo

 

My front right just popped 1 hour ago and here I am joining the discussion. What happened to me was the metal sleeve that holds the bag together failed first and cracked wide open and then the bag went literary 2 minutes after it. I think that the metal ages and developed cracks that are put under further pressure by the bag and eventually fail.

I am trying to figure out the part number for it so that I purchase the correct one from ebay. Does anyone know what the part number is?

Model Year: 2004
Engine: 4.2 V8

Also Ryan, did you need to replace any other parts such as air line fittings? Any issues to look out for when replacing it?

Thanks in advance
Hristo

try Arnott industries
and they are in your part of the world.

regards
Drag

 

Hello mate. This is the guy I got my from. As for tips make sure you you got a nice long extention for the top strut bolts in the engine bay.