costs vary amongst dealers but shouldnt be that much. with the batteries safe from varying engine temperatures they should last 8-10 years ...but depends on usage, charging issues, etc ....
nearly 5 years on mine and both are running well....

 

not sure about $350, it costs my mate (with a V6 petrol) $600. Long story short, but the moral of the story is get the dealer to do the job. My mate had a third party mobile guy comeout, only to have his car completely dead, no new battery and a flatbed job to the dealer.

Interestingly, the third party guy told him the stock batteries should last 10 years, any less than that means the charging circuit has damaged the battery....not sure what to take of that.

 

about $350 from the dealer is what i recall warrenza.

the underside of the drivers seat hosts other electronics/stuff/compressor....hence the battery is under passengers seat or in the boot.

 

Does anyone know what the cost is for replacing the main battery?

Second question might be a dumb but if the main battery is under the driver’s seat why can't a second battery be placed under the passenger seat??

 

I can understand the need for a 2nd battery as posted here. Not sure I'm up to it for my needs as I don't have fridge. A simple method (for me) would be to get a 50-75ah deep cycle batt in a battery box, attach the C-Tek lead to the batt terminals and plug the charger into the Treg 12V outlet just so its a temporary power supply. I have a few C-Teks and they are a good product. I've attached a set to my boat batts and it's simple to charge with the plug in connectors.

 

I can understand the need for a 2nd battery as posted here. Not sure I'm up to it for my needs as I don't have fridge. A simple method (for me) would be to get a 50-75ah deep cycle batt in a battery box, attach the C-Tek lead to the batt terminals and plug the charger into the Treg 12V outlet just so its a temporary power supply. I have a few C-Teks and they are a good product. I've attached a set to my boat batts and it's simple to charge with the plug in connectors.

Sure, you could do that, but I presume you will still need to run cabling in the vehicle somehow from your start battery to the Ctek and then on to the 12v outlet, not so simple unless you run cables over the carpet and not under it.

Generally a second battery would only be needed when you have something that needs to be on continuously and you want to ensure that the start battery doesn't get run down....what would you run to need only "temporary power".

With my set up I can't combine the batteries should my start battery go flat, I could install a rotary switch (like in a boat with dual batteries) which would enable me to combine the two but I want to keep it simple so as a workaround I may make up a set jumper cables long enough to reach the battery stud in the engine bay to get me out of trouble if the need arises.

Tony

 

Topside wiew

 

Great Stuff!

 

My second battery install is now complete except for the holding clamp that I need to have custom bent (roughly a "Z" shape), which will secure the battery to the floor by way of the existing spacesaver wheel holdown nut.

As I mentioned in an earlier post I have used the Ctek DC-DC charger which allows the aux battery to achieve 100% SOC from the main battery plus it has VSR functionality built in to combine or separate the batteries as needed.
I have used the existing velcro straps (initially held the wheel chocks) on the tool kit to securely hold it in place.

All my wiring consists of 6 B&S (14mm2/140A) cable, the positive wire from the start battery (protected with 50A CB) going to a power stud bolted on the CD changer bracket, from the stud a branch line goes to a 50A Anderson plug used to run my boat winch.
The other line goes to the Cteck DC-DC charger which feeds and regulates the second battery. From the second battery a fused 20A wire goes to an Engel fridge plug which I mounted near the existing cig plug in the cargo area to run my fridge independently of the vehicle ignition system and starting battery.

Also by using the existing grounding chassis bolts (there is one in the wheel well and another in the RHS rear floor panel) there was no need to run a negative cable through the car from the main battery.
I am happy that I found a way to mount everything in place without drilling a single hole in the car.

Everything has been tested and had the fridge on 24/7 so far without any issues.

Tony

 

It is most likely an AGM battery that you've bought, as far as I'm aware AGM deep cycle batteries are really the only fully sealed battery (for use in situation like Touareg where the battery is in the cabin).

 

Yes you are right Touaregs require AGM's, whilst they are fully sealed they can "vent" if overheated and that's why there is a tube in the battery compartment under the seat to vent the battery to the outside of the vehicle if that ever happens.

As far as I know AGM's come in both Deep Cycle and start configurations, I look at it if the battery specification show capacity in Amp Hrs only then I see it as being designed primarily for deep cycle applications, if it shows both A/Hrs and CCA rating then it is a "dual" type application battery.

Lets not forget that you can use a deep cycle battery for starting however it's not it's ideal and intended application.

I know for a fact that Lifeline AGM batteries come in both types as I have a couple of them:
Lifeline Batteries - Marine & RV Deep Cycle Batteries

Tony

 

Hi sallyliao. The aux battery I purchased is a fully sealed Bosch, which I believe is what is called a 'deep cycle' type. I have no idea what that means but I understand that it is the type of battery required to provide reliable power for an appliance which draws current regularly. I will be carrying an Engel compressor-type camping frig./freezer in the load area of the Treg and it will run 24/7 when I am touring (starting this July).
My previous vehicle, (a Nissan Patrol 4X4) was fitted with an ordinary 'cranking' type aux battery. When I installed it I was told that I would have few problems with a regular cranking battery if it was not allowed to run down (or discharge) too much. It performed flawlessly for three years, (including being used as power for my 'Engel' deepfreeze storage for three months) before I sold the vehicle.
With regular use of the car, and the appropriate electronics controlling direction of the charge, the alternator continually charges both batteries in turn and the 'critical discharge' problem does not arise, or did not for me.
cheers.

 

Paul, thanks for explaining your set up.

At the moment my thoughts are to have a narrow ("Z") bracket custom folded to fit over the battery which will be screwed in to the existing spacesaver retention nut which is already welded in the floor, thus avoiding any holes in the floor.
The battery will sit on a rubber mat with the Dc-Dc charger nearby held in place with velcro straps.

That's the plan so far, I should have the charger before the end of the week and will post a pic when it all comes together.

Tony

 

Hi John47. I have recently installed a second battery in my 08 V6 TDI. It was an easy fit beneath the spacesaver spare wheel. I purchased a fully sealed Bosch battery, and secured it with lugs from the battery tray from a Commodore (wreckers yard special) and installed an isolator nearby in the space beneath the spare. I ran a cable beneath the carpet to the cranking battery (actually the terminals near the battery) under the nearside front seat, using a seat securing bolt for reliable earth. The cable under the carpet was a test but a stiff wire finally found its way there after several unsuccessful efforts. Dogged determination and expletives returned a positive result. I also installed a second 12 volt socket near the factory plug in the rear, using heavy electrical wire to ensure full power. I run an Engel with it and have thus far encountered no problems. The installation cost around $400 in all.
The key is to find a battery with a low enough profile to easily fit under the spare, and then secure it. I also obtained a ruptured truck inner tube, cut it to size and pulled it over the aux battery like a blanket to ensure no inadvertent contact of battery terminals/spare wheel. That is most unlikely anyway since the battery is much lower than the spare but I feel better with it there. My next challenge is to install a reversing camera and somehow connect it to the factory GPS system. Wish me luck.
regards,
Paulinwang

 

Hi John47. I have recently installed a second battery in my 08 V6 TDI. It was an easy fit beneath the spacesaver spare wheel. I purchased a fully sealed Bosch battery, and secured it with lugs from the battery tray from a Commodore
Paulinwang

I'm going through the same project now but don't plan on keeping my space saver as I carry a full size spare now.
Interested how you secured the lugs to the floor pan, did you drill into it? I am reluctant to drill through so am looking if there is some other way to secure the battery in place.

BTW rather than using an isolator I will be using this:

http://www.ctek.com/files/productsheet/D250S-Dual_uk_low.pdf

for my power management to ensure my aux AGM is optimally charged.

Tony

 

Well job done the last couple of days, finally the brake release indicator works and the tailgate (both bits) works like a dream.

Didn't get a V6TDI loaner, only managed a V6FSI Passat Wagon.

So now, touch wood, we all good for a while and maybe I won't have to use the extended warranty.

 

John
Depending on how much you want to spend, National Lunar who make the best fridges also have a battery box as you wish for that contains the battery & very smart controller and is portable, in and out when you are not using it.It does require a feed to access the alternator from the main battery in the Treg which can be taken from the main battery under the front seat( see Bobzed,s article) or from the power supply under the bonnet. You could also set up a portable solar panel and top up the aux. battery if you wanted to be independent from the Tregs electricial system. Ask Sumar how he charges his two 100ah batteries. Also use an AGM battery, far superior, charges quicker and never leaks.See Collyn Rivers book on 12volts" Motorhome Electrics"Google it.

 

Bob, you just uttered the Touareg curse "Not much more can crap out on this car, surely"

Beware......

 

hmm...i did get the extended warranty but no opportunity to use it...i must be one of the lucky ones not to have any issues with the egg at all...look forward to the catchup

 

Hey Singh

No worries, plenty of outlets for fridges.

As an aside, had my 60k service today at 55k in preparation for a couple of trips coming up. They don't miss you with the price of oil and wiper blades that's for sure.

On other issues, the dealer finally agreed there was a problem with my parking brake indication and will replace the brake assembly as per the advice provided on this forum by matthew and barefoot and others. Also, as mentioned earlier in this thread my tailgate glass won't stay up. It seems the struts have failed. Anyway, two days in the shop coming up. They're going to give me V6TDI loaner, I guess in an attempt to seduce me into something new.

Lastly, bought the extended warranty today as my OEM one dies next month. All the techos at the dealer ship said it would pay for itself. Jeez I hope not. Not much more can crap out on this car, surely.

Cheers

 

nice one Bob! if you dont mind i might run my waeco off your Treg

 

Hi Guys,

Currently running a Trailblaza off the auxilliary battery in the back of the V10. So far so good as the fridge is very economical. However, the spare space in the wheel well cries out for a trebling or quadrupling of the power reserve.

Sumar, are the AGM batteries sealed gel type? - would be the choice so that the whole setup would need minimal maintenance - a separate solenoid/charger would isolate any different charging characteristics. Was thinking of hooking up the HF and satphone in at the same time (Aerials mounted on the spare wheel carrier - has anyone else done or had thoughts along these lines?). Also, anyone know of auxiliary fuel tanks to increase range? - would come in handy on some of the Qld routes we travel.

Wince - V10 spaceship - 8 months old, just over 40000km, running like a clock, latest fuel figures MEL - Lakes Entrance - rtn 10.2km/l (including a bit of fun with a couple of tryhard pretenders).

 

Second Battery Installed

Guys

I've just spent the weekend installing an AGM battery in the Treg. Checkout my photos at bobzed57/Dual Battery - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting I've posted something similar to the DIY section, and am waiting for the moderator to approve the info.

It wasn't as big a PITA as I thought and pleasingly there were no 'Oh No' moments. I took my time and followed the instructions I had assembled. Basically, you access the battery under the passenger seat, remove the B-Pillar trim and then remove the door sill trim. There's a square plastic channel that runs the length of the door sill, and it's held closed by plastic clips. Plenty of space for the cables.

The main system is setup, and in the next few days I'll be adding a Hella plug for the fridge. I did future proof the system with enough fittings for growth. The controller/isolator was made by Peter West in NZ. It has some clever circuitry that ups the supply voltage by a couple of volts, independently of the alternator, which means faster and more efficient charging. A number of people in 4WD club run these and one of them is looking at importing and servicing them. I guess the proof will be in the cold beer.

One downer was that I discovered that my small window glass in the tailgate won't stay up. probably gas struts have speared in. The Treg's going for its 60k service on Wednesday, so I'm hoping they fix it. Just another joy of owning a Treg I'll also be buying the extended warranty to give me time to see what's out there.

Anyway, if you have any questions give me a yell.

Cheers

Bob

 

Having done a fair bit of amateur wiring on my yacht, I suspect speaker cable is not what you want. The diameter of the cable depends on the current you want to pull. Bigger is not always better.

If I wanted a second battery, I'd look at putting a sealed AGM or GelCell battery in the boot, connecting it via a one way circuit (they sell them for solar panel charging) to the rear 12V outlet. I'd be surprised if the cabling to the back is not sufficient for battery charging duty.

If you needed to do something with you spare battery, like start the car, you disconnect it, walk it round to the front and attach it to the terminals I've read are under the bonnet, with thick cables like jumper leads.

That said, I've also hear that modern cars shouldn't be jump started. Instead your supposed to recharge the battery. I'm not sure how valid this is.

 

Second battery

Well, busted flush my man who was prepared to 'ahve a crack' at doing a second battery got nervous and said he wasn't prepared to do the job.

On to Plan B, whatever that is.

Might have to see if VW has a pet auto elec prepared to do the job.

Also, any V10 owners checking this thread, do have any ide hoe the cable is routed from the main battery in the cabin to your second battery in the luggage compartment? Pictures would be great.

I'm also thinking of a running a cable under the Treg from the jumper connections under the bonnet to where the trailer cable enters the vehicle. Some big, fat, fully sik, sub woofer cable might do the trick

 

Hi Markus,
After you posted details of your mods a while ago, the server crashed and all of your good stuff was lost! In line with Bob's request, would it be possible for you to post details of your vehicle (including pics) in a separate post so we can all drool and ask questions. Whoever did your work would probably get some business too!

cheers,

..Neil

 

Hi bobzed57,
Yes he ran a cable out to the back with a mini Anderson plug for charging the trailer batteries. For the wiring I belive he used 2 Piranha modules, one from the main battery to the the auxellery ones and then from there to the outside. Exactly how I dont know but I trust him absolutly, he does all the difficult electrical work for Bill Buckle Automotive that means he works with VW Audi Subarus and others. Give him a call he is a very nice guy, you can mention my name.
Markus

 

50mm Lift query

Hi Sumar, new to forum, 50mm Bilstein lift, where did you get it done and how much??, just purchased 2008 V6 TDI looking to lift it, can you assist please.

Regards Tony

 

sumar

I'll take you up on your offer to check your mods. A quick question, how did your auto elec wire your second batteries in, and did you run a cable out the back for your trailer?

I'm looking at doing the dual battery thing, including an Anderson plug piggy-backed on the trailer plug to run 12V to my Kanga trailer.

Cheers

Bob