Welp update time.
3/4 of the way of installing the Eurowise 3” lift. Bro… if I ever have to do suspension work on this car again… someone else will do the work or I’m selling it because it involves a lot of work.
The rears will require a spring compressor because the spacer sits on top of the spring and under the strut mount. No real tricks here.
Started with the back first since it’s the harder of the ends. Highly recommend getting some ratchet straps if you’re doing this on your back or in my case, Quick Jacks. Use the straps to align the holes for the bolts, sounds easy but it is not. This punch came in handy from Mayhew, it’s tapered and 5/16 in diameter.
It helps tremendously.
Mad Max style:
When doing the rear keep an eye on the order in which you remove the upper arms because there are two upper arms and you won’t be able to install the bolts if you do it out of order. The rear subframe bolts are 21mm as well, all the same length which isn’t the same up front.
Ok for the fronts. The upper strut bolts are pretty easy on the driver’s side. The passenger side requires the removal of a canister in the engine bay, 3 bolts nothing crazy. The lower control arms are 21mm and the upper A arm ball joint is a 18mm, the sway bar end bolt is also 18mm. I’ll update the strut mount bolt sizes.
I had to beat the **** out of the upper arm to get the ball joint to come loose. Tried using a regular ball joint separator and it didn’t do anything.
When assembling the spacer on the front struts, the spacer attaches via the upper strut mount. The spacer has 3 holes that corresponds with the OEM mount and the spacer has studs that pass through the mount in the chassis.
Here’s what I did to get the strut in.
I used a ratchet strap to bring the LCAs down to make enough clearance for the strut. A 2x4 was cut to length that allowed me to bring the quick jack down which in turn lifted the upper A arm.
If you have clearance problems, start with lowering the subframe as much as you can without completely dropping the subframe. Two sets of hands are extremely helpful if you’re working on your ass like I am.
Things I F$&ked up:
- Upper ball joint:
Be careful when using a ball joint remover. I thought I had it on correctly and when tightening the tool, it bent that bolt. Had to cut it and do some very suspect things, I will be getting Eurowise upper mounts next year.
- Front CV Axles:
Man… just be more cautious than I was. The whole outer boot popped of and grease was everywhere. After getting the passenger 100% complete, I noticed a couple drips on the floor under the hub. Ended up finding a crack in the boot so I had to disassemble everything and that’s where I am as of today. Getting the axle done on Monday.
Here are the rims.
Rotiform STLs in 20x9
Tires are 275-55-20 Nitto Recon Grapplers, their newest gen. Should have everything ready and aligned by Wednesday. Laugh at my pain.
