Went back an hour later and it fired up albeit VERY reluctantly. Had to nurse the throttle to keep it alive. Very rough stumbly idle and jerky on the power. Coaxed it home and after about 3 miles it began to run smoother.
Pulled codes when home:
17748 camshaft position sensor G40/engine speed sensor G28
P1 340?001- incorrect correlation ? intermittent
18613 - performance malfunction and cooling system P2181- 008
The cooling system code has been on and off with the cooling temp sensor on the instrument cluster intermittently not reading coolant temperature.

The 17748 code though is a new one and I have a G28 sensor ordered -will be here in the morning.

 

Failed G28 (Engine Speed Sensor) means engine will not start (period...would need new sensor), G40 (Engine Camshaft (intake) Sensor) will still allow engine to run. BUT a failed G40 or G163 (exhaust cam position sensor) will require many turn overs as the ECU calculates timing from the G28 on the flywheel and this means the engine has to turn over and over and over for the marker to pass over the sensor twice. Also the engine would run crappy because the timing I believe is retarded and will remain in this position to keep the timing such that it can be calculated.

See pages 45 and 50 of the attached.

 

My V8 had similar symptoms and replacing the crank position sensor solved it. The car normally started after sitting for a couple of hours which is the classic sign of a bad CPS.

 

I replaced the crank sensor (G28 ) 2 yrs ago. I'm going after the G40 sensor (new one in hand) later today.
Thanks and I'll report back.

 

Replaced cam sensor G40. Actually found the original one close to hanging out of the back of the head. Retaining bolt was only held in by 2-3 turn of thread. Replaced that in approx 10 mins as there's a main harness loom that runs right over it -you need only to remove it's closest retaining bracket and push it down out of the way to pull out the G40 sensor.
Vehicle started up prior to replacing and afterwards so no DEFINITIVE change there.

NEXT DAY:
Since this is my wife's vehicle we traded (she drove in my V10 TDI) so I could be the guinea pig in hers.
Started right up but about 7 miles into driving, the engine shut off at highway speed for about 2 seconds then popped back on. Did this a couple more times between there and my work (about 15 miles trip).
I made it to work (thank the Lord) and pulled codes:

Wednesday,26,April,2017,07:17:21:46475
VCDS Version: Release 17.1.3 (x64) Running on Windows 7 x64
Ross-Tech: Home

Address 01: Engine Labels:
Control Module Part Number:
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 55A1F369ACB4DDE9EA-FFFE
1 Fault Found:

16706 - Engine Speed Sensor ( G28 )
P0322 - 004 - No Signal - Intermittent

Readiness: N/A

I will be installing a new G28 sensor today (again, turns out I'm 24 months into 12 month warranty).

 

Is the faulty G28 a OEM part or aftermarket. I have heard lots of the aftermarket CPS's are junk and should stay with OEM or Bosch.

 

G48 Sensor was originally sourced (2 years ago) through NAPA.
Part #021957147 and is a FAE brand, made in Spain -not from china from what I've researched.
Appears to be a quality sensor.

I purchased another and received an identical sensor from FAE through NAPA -approx $55.

Upon removal of the defective sensor I found it to most likely to have failed due to be metal fatigue in the wire at the sensor.
The sensor is installed adjacent to the oil cooler and is mounted in the block nested under the rear of oil cooler bracket.
Removal of the bracket isn't necessary.
Routing of the wire is critical as it turns out.

The sensor I removed today showed signs of wire fatigue right where it exits the sensor as it was forced (due to how I had installed it and routed the wire coming out of it) to make a sharp 90. We dissected the bend and found signs of breakage -thus causing the intermittent no signal. No exterior evidence of damage or breakage were visible, just that the wire retained its sharp bend when set on the bench.

In the pics (soon to be attached) we removed some of the casing to investigate the wire at the bend, originally when removed there was no cracking or breakage visible as mentioned.

It's crucial to pull the connector down through the hole in the oil filter bracket below the sensor to allow the wire to feed out of the sensor straight.

Live and learn guys....

 

Pics

 

Good posts.