You still need to drop the engine for turbo problems on the V6? I did not think so. I knew it was needed on the V10 but not the V6. Unless they want to diagnose the high pitch sound on cold starts if they suspect it to be coming from the engine.

 

Have them check the Crankcase Beather pipe between the MAF and Turbo. Part # 7L6-129-955. I have an '09 that had a leak in the same area and they determined that the above part # developed a small hole that was causing a very small leak of engine oil. Good luck.

 

The Turbo is on top of the motor in the V6, so no need to take the motor out to replace/repair it. This will be a first if you do in fact need to work on the turbo. This motor has been around for awhile and no one even from over seas has made mention of a bad turbo on the V6.

 

The V10 engine drop is because the engine physically has no space around it when in the Treg ie: if you drop a coin standing over the engine bay of a V10 odds are it will not find its way to the floor.

The V6 TDI doesn't have this problem, there is enough room in the engine bay that you can basically stand in it.

 

UPDATE:
Service manager thinks it has a bad turbo. QTM is stopping by tomorrow morning to look at it. Driving around a Jetta sucks.....No disrespect to Jetta owners.

 

Final Verdict

Got the T-Reg back yesterday. It had a new turbo and power steering pump installed. Turbo was an easy R&R (according to mechanic). The oil leak was suspected to be coming from the charge side of the turbo, but I have my doubts. No evidence of oil leaking from the exhaust side, and shaft had no play. I brought up the CCV system and asked if there was excessive oil in the turbo intake tube, and the mechanic gave me the deer in the headlights look. Time will tell.....
I had to get the Service Manager to personally start up truck in the morning to listen for the strange noise out of the engine and finally he heard it. Tracked it down to the P/S pump and they replaced. Everything seems fine now. Hopefully smooth sailing from here.
Make sure to stay engaged with your service manager when getting these vehicles worked on and get educated mechanically. It is clear to me that this is a low volume vehicle for VW. Therefore, the service centers don't have much experience working on them and it becomes a discovery journey.

 

Oil Leak Back

Did not take but a few days and the oil leak is back. Still looks to be coming from the high pressure side of the turbo. I had my doubts about the turbo being bad in the first place. Any one know how else you would be getting a leak in this area? I guess it's back to the dealer again! Going to push back on getting stuck with a car.

 

Another update: T-Reg has been in the shop for the last 7 days now and the problem as been elevated to "level 2" status with VW engineering. (Wonder how many levels there are???)

There latest solution is to install a new boot that connects the high pressure side of the turbo to the intercooler pipe along with installing a stronger clamp in an attempt to keep the oil from leaking out. Seems funny to me, as a few weeks ago VW engineering had the dealership to replace a $4000 turbo because they felt that there was excess oil in the intercooler system.

Service manager told me that they completely cleaned both intercoolers/lines, and within 40 miles the leak was back and they drained an inch of oil (into a cup) out of the system. But apparently, VW now claims that all that oil in the system is completely normal (which I do not agree with and if that is true why replace the turbo in the first place?)
Service manager also informed me that their demo T-Reg wiht 7K miles is also leaking oil in the same location. Seems like VW might have a bigger problem on their hands? Probably not enough for a trend but........

Anyway, I suggest anyone with a late model TDI get under their cars and look for oil leaking out of their turbo on the high pressure outlet.

Parts are scheduled to be installed Thrusday. Any advice???

 

I have been experiencing the same exact thing since 25k miles on my 2010 tdi. Now at 70k+ miles. I have heard its normal and some say it is not normal. I have seen the same phenomenon on other diesel engines. I had the Treg looked at last week for the leaking moonroof and brought the turbo oil leak to their attention. VW mechanics said its normal blow-by. I said that it is a little disconcerting cause it could lead to a run away engine. As the oil in the air system is a fuel source. They said no way. I said huh! I'm no city slicker and have seen a few run away diesels go due to engine oil getting into the air intake system. All they did was tighten the rubber coupler that connects the charged air from turbo to the inter cooler pipe.

Anyway doesn't seem any of us are gonna win this fight. It is some what comforting to know that even a brand new turbo did this also.

I have been monitoring this phenomenon since I noticed it. My oil level seems to always be right on at 10k miles even though I notice the oil coming from the turbo. So I'll go with it. On mine the oil drips down and ends up on the bell housing leading all mechanics to say I have rear main seal leak. But I'm not losing a noticeable amount of oil

It definitely makes me want to drill holes into the intercoolers to see if I can drain any oil out, thread and seal with a bolt. Through time I'd imagine that much oil is gonna clog up the air intake system faster and/or lead to a runaway.

 

Here's my oil leak 2012 TDI Touareg with 24k miles. VW tech says its residual oil in intercooler line and they are going to change or tighten the clamp.

 

Mine is currently in the shop for the same leak. I do think it is normal that there is some blow by but it should be contained and not leaking. Sounds like I will be getting a new hose and then they may try an additional silicone sealant to prevent this from re occurring. Will let you know.

 

Silicone (RTV) as a fix for this condition is a hack. Hose to fitting sealing should be accomplished with correct fit and clamping mechanism. The only time RTV is suitable is for older vehicles where fitting is pitted or scratched. The RTV fills the voids in this case.

Either way, I hope they are able to fix it for you.

Jason

 

Anyone make a catch can for these cars?

 

Please provide an update on this 2012 oil leak. Do we know how to stop it?

 

I just had the same. on my old copper washer I saw on the pattern that it did not seal all the way round. So I drained the oil and let it drip for very long to see what the surface on the oil pan looks like.
Do it, you will be amazed. There is a dent in the surface where the seal must seal. It is a factory created indentation. So they deliberately damaged the seal area so that you have no other way than to use a collapsible washer with each service.

I softened a copper washer, applied some teflon tape on the thread and I've put some gasket maker on the copper washer to fill that gap. So far so good, seems like it is sealed now.