It can be done!!
I just completed this job yesterday and I know I save $500 to $800 over what the dealer would have charged.
It is a MASSIVE job and you need skills to do this, but here's how it's done.
I bought my window regulator aff of Amazon - this part is a guarantee fit:
Amazon.com: VW Volkswagen TOUAREG Window Regulator LEFT FRONT 04-09 NEW: Automotive
To replace this, get the service manual because there's a lot of good info in there.
Tools:
You'll need a complete set of Torx screw driver heads and torx wrenches for a socket. I don't remember the exact sizes because I already had the set. You need a drill to drill out rivets, and misc. regular old tools that everyone has. It's also helpful to have a chair or sawhorse to support the frame while you work on it.
You also need a pop rivet gun and various sizes of rivets. I bought an assortment set at Pep Boys.
Remove door trim:
There's two small screws under the bottom of the door panel. Take these out. Then behind the door grab bar is a little access panel. Pop this off and remove the two screws underneath. Then grab at the bottom and pop it off. It hangs in a channel at the top, so lift up and slide this out. There are two wires to undo - one on the winder motor and one thin one for something else. Also, disonnect the pull cable for the door release - the little white part pivots out and the pin will slip out of the release lever. Disconnect these and the panel comes away. Note: the one on the window regulator has a zip tie holding it on, so have someone hold the door panel while you remove this and pop the connector free.
Remove the door frame:
You can't get to the window regulator from the inside ... you have to lift the window frame out of the door. This isn't for the faint of heart. The Bently instructions want you to remove the door lock ... I went a route that didn't include doing this.
On the door panel, you'll see a row of 4 rivets along the top holding the metal door sheath onto the door. Drill these out. There are also two trim plates in the upper corners that wrap around the sides of the door with little tiny rivets. Drill these out. In the upper corner by the door lock, you'll see the back of two rivets that hold a plastic support piece for the door lock. Get a grinding wheel and cut these fro the back.
Next there are 10 screws all around the edge of the metal sheath. Take all these out and the panel pops free. Then take the three scres off that surround the window motor. Pull the motor back and you'll see 3 plastic studs clipped in. These hold the gear mechanism for the window.
Finally, check around the edge of the door. There are some plastic panels right below the window channel at either side, and two round caps toward the bottom. Pop all these off to reveal the window frame bolts. With a torx bit and an extension on a socket wrench, remove all 4 of these. The window channel will now be loose and resting on two support pins. Take a moment to study and note where all the wires go and how the frame is resting on the support pins. You'll see the make up of the window frame.
Now grab on and pull the window the whole window frame up, freeing the support pins. Have someone free any wires that get in the way. The panel won't come away completely because of the door lock wires. I really didn't want to mess with these, so once I got the frame clear of the door, I pivoted the top down and rested the bottom on the cross support int he door frame. It'll stretch every wire you got, but I was able to rest this on a chair and lay it horizontal with it still connected. THis is the frame that goes inside the door, the frame and channel up over the top of the window, the mirror ... basically the top half of the door.
Replace the window regulator:
First you gotta take the glass out. There are two screws with big washers in these yellow rider clips. Take these loose and slide the window all the way to the bottom. Pivot the end toward the mirror up the channel and the glass will come free. Be careful to save all the pieces for the yellow riders. There are two little white spacers that you want to save, as well as the yellow clips and the two screws. Carefully set the glass aside. Now you are free to drill out the rivets holding the regulator (4). Make a note of exactly how the cables are routed ... which goes over which and all. One of the cables has a rubber sleeve over it - make sure you get it back on top. When you have the regulator out, lay the new one in and pop rivet it in place. You'll need the extra deep rivets. I bought an assortment set at Pep Boys for $13 that had all the sized I needed (already had the pop rivet gun). With the regulator, you get this little baggie wih two tiny rubber pieces. These go into the glass support mounts. Look at the old one and you'll see that they fit into the side of the support. Clean up the yellow clips and place them over the two supports. Clean the glass and lay it back in place. Remember to put the back edge of the glass in first and pivot in the front end by the mirror. Have a friend do this while you make sure the support pieces and the yellow clips are all in place. Slide the little white plastic strips back into the gap between the support and the yellow part, then fold it over and loosely install the screws. Slide the window closed and make sure it't OK in the channel all the way up, then CAREFULLY tighten the screws holding the glass. NOT TOO TIGHT ... only snug.
With the window all the way up, cut the zip tie that's holding the new gear in the new regulator, being carefull not to let it drop out. Push the three studs through the holes in the metal sheath and they should snap and hold the gear in place.
If everything looks good, lift the window frame back into place. The places where the 4 bolts hold this in have adjustable socket pieces. Make sure these don't fall out. If the frame is too tight of a fit, screw them in a little, then retighten when you have the frame in place. Looking at these will reveal what I mean. Inspect and make sure that you have the frame seated all the way down, the bolt holes line up, and the support pins are seated firmly all the way into their cradles. If it looks OK, then replace the 4 bolts and replace the plastic trim. You've completed the hardest part!!
Now screw the motor back onto the three plastic studs of the gear. Tighten about 3/4 of the way, then reconnect the big wire from the door panel and run the motor just a bit. This will make sure that the gear is seated on the sprocket. Tighten the screws the rest of the way. Now you can test the window. Run it up and down a few times and pat yourself on the back.
Go ahead and remove the door panel again. The next part is to reconenct all the wires, replace the 10 screws, put the 4 rivets along the top in, and rivet in the small trim pieces.
Finally, reconnect the release lever cable and wires on the door panel and hang it back in the window channel. Watch carefully that everything lines up and that the clips are going back into their holes, then smack it with your hand to pop these into place. Install the screws behind the grab bar and the two screws at the bottom of the trim. Then replace the little trim piece behind the grab bar.
You're done!
This is a MASSIVE job - only try this if you are very mechanically inclined. I fully understand why the dealership charges so much for this.
ALSO ... this took me several hours to complete and I ran the battery down having the door open so long. Be prepared to jump or recharge your batteries!!!
