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Dismal lighting fix needed! LED D1S conversion?

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#101 ·
imquattro said:
Good ideas but did you look back through this thread? I literally yesterday posted multiple pics that showcase the condition of the wires both inside the housing and on the vehicle. All have been inspected and other than some road film, are like new.
Look at post #66
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Yes, I have read every word that you have written and I'm still surprised that you are only partially flowing suggestion or troubleshooting the wiring. Visual inspection of the wiring will not tell you all that you need to know. I completely get that you can't bench test the lights for voltage, but you can do a continuity test (for shorts) and a resistance test of the wires themselves.
 
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Discussion starter · #102 ·
I hear you aircooled, it really comes down to whether I feel it's a necessary test or not and I didn't -based upon visually and tactilly testing the wires and a number of other mental checkmarks I made. There are no signs that they are suspect. None of the lights in the housings are dim (indicating a wiring or ground issue), none flicker or take re-starts to get them on (hinting at end of life or loose connections).
I need access to legit VCDS and align them.
IF that doesn't work, then I'm going to pursue replacing them (bulbs, ballasts, or both) with something.
 
#103 ·
imquattro,

You are not going to see the wiring problems normally. The insulation can develop small cracks that you are not going to notice unless you take the wiring out and look at the insulation of each wire individually under a bright light and magnifying glass.

You are never going to see a high resistance connection. The laws of physics just don't allow it.

However, I don't expect you to play electrician or do what a quality control person at the Valeo factory should have done to the headlights. It would be a great thing to do and I think that it might allow you to fix the problem, but it is like saying why don't you tear down the engine or just take the transmission apart to find the problem. Not everyone has the skill set necessary to do it.

As I said earlier.. I think that you are at the point that you are running out of options other then buying a new light, ballast, and bulb or finding somebody who is close and willing to allow you to put your headlight in their car to prove that it is the light itself or your car that is causing the problem.

My money is still on it is in your light. But I don't know if it is the light assembly, ballast, or bulb. And it could be just one, two or all three that is the problem.
 
Discussion starter · #104 ·
nickyt said:
imquattro,

You are not going to see the wiring problems normally. The insulation can develop small cracks that you are not going to notice unless you take the wiring out and look at the insulation of each wire individually under a bright light and magnifying glass.

You are never going to see a high resistance connection. The laws of physics just don't allow it.
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Thanks for the suggestions and yes you're correct in your reasoning although I honestly don't believe they apply in this situation. They would apply if I believed there was an electrical issue, which I don't believe is the case with mine.
Hopefully someone who's exhausted all other avenues of diagnosis and troubleshooting will benefit from your suggestions. This after a new ballast(s), genuine bulb(s), clear optics, and proper alignment have been sorted.
 
#105 ·
As an FYI, the local dealer where I live has a separate LLC that is run out of the back of service for after market modifications and tires. Two times I have asked to use their dealer computer to make minor adjustments in the programming of both my Treg's (seat belt chime, DLS and so on). I was not charged either time because the guy said he was bored and wanted an excuse to do something new. My question is, how expensive would it be to have a dealer adjust your lights? It seems it would take way less than 15 minutes...
 
#106 ·
I have been following both this thread and the other one and I am confused now. I know very little when it comes to the specifics of lighting and understanding the power outputs, etc. But it is starting to sound like the best course of action for the ones that are experiencing crappy lighting, to start fresh by getting new crystal clear housings, ballasts, and sticking with factory bulbs and then working from there. Along with (at a minimum) visually checking the wiring for any kind of visible corrosion.

I do like the idea of LED's but it's sounding like most people are saying to stay away from them, at least for the low beam headlights. Use them for the fog lights and the high beams if you really want to make the switch.

In layman's terms, does this sound about right?

(p.s. I will be posting this in both threads just in case).
 
#108 ·
Yes, this is my understanding too. While LED lighting is cutting edge, it has a different beam (it is directional) versus HID or Halogen which has a 360 degree source. Car manufacturers successfully using LED in OEM products use special housings that reflect the LED back out of the lens to create a blanket or light at the appropriate angle and breadth.

None of this is my own experience, but what I have read and have been told from light enthusiasts.
 
#109 ·
If you can find LEDs that are DOT approved, go for it.

Problem isn't even the directionality of LEDS, in fact, that can be very good for lighting applications like this. The problem is that they're trying to be retrofit into housings and optics designed for bulbs which aren't.

LEDs need very specific optics, and it's nothing at all like the housings for a halogen or xenon, regardless of projector/reflector.

To get enough light output from LEDs for a vehicle headlamp, you also need many LEDs and some way to coordinate their output with optics. To do a retrofit they just have to stack a bunch of LEDs onto something D1S shaped and then hope for the best in terms of hotspot/etc. This is horrible, and is similar to the issue of retrofitting Xenon lamps into reflector housings.
 
#111 · (Edited)
imquattro said:
Tried adjusting the dipped beam alignment tonight.
First, VCDS-light does not allow you to access that module.
So I brought home my scanner But was unable to get it (a snap-on Verus scanner with full euro and domestic software on it) to communicate with the xenon range module.
I've used in the past to recode modules, change adaptation, perform output tests, etc. also used to pull codes. In the past, I couldn't get it to communicate with the xenon range module.
Tried numerous times again tonight hoping that after the scan tool's very recent update it may work. No avail. I tried also left beam as it was noted this may work. Nada. Out of curiosity I tried right beam.
Under right beam I was able to get in and do some reading of the channel info but when it came time to turn on the lights, the module would time out on the scanner.
Sounds like tracking down VCDS locally is my next route.
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To go back to my post regarding requiring VCDS to do anything related to adjusting with xenons:

1. The lights require electronic input via VCDS to know where their level is. Their default level is straight down i.e. pointing like this /
2. You can jack up the lights all you want manually, the light will continue to point like this /
3. When you adjust the lights upwards (manually) and get to the point that you think its right i.e.: - you need the electronic system to learn the level. This is done via VCDS (or a dealer, or proper VW service shop).
4. When you restart the vehicle, the lights will do their up down dance, and finally land themselves at the level you set in step 3.

You can mcguyver this all you want, until you follow these steps you won't find a solution. Even a brand new set of xenons won't fix it if you havent corretly set the level.

For the $100 maiximum a dealer would have charged you to adjust your headlights, you've probably spend $1000 of your own time mucking around with this. Not being a jerk - just a reality check.
 
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#112 ·
Nickm, totally agree one can't see what is what until adjustment is made.

Regarding the manual versus VCDS and not sticking or learning. I think there must be a difference between T1 and T2 HID adjustment processes (for whoever comes along later and reads this). The T2 HID manual adjustment DOES stick. In fact is took less than an hour (mostly driving around and lowering / raising to zero in.)

My lights resembled the imqauttro's prior to adjustment, but are now adjusted to just barely under the trunk of a newer Accord at three car lengths (for example). The difference has been trouble free for over a month.
 
#113 ·
If a VCDS owner can't be found on here to do the adjustment, I recommend going to the VWVortex (Welcome - VWVortex) and posting in the regional forum for your area. There are a lot of dubbers in your area that are willing to do whatever you need for free or a six-pack of beer. A lot of private VW enthusiast shops will hook you up too, you just need to ask around.
 
#114 ·
imquattro said:
I will perform the adjustment via VCDS and report back if that brings any results.
Click to expand...
Were you able to get them adjusted?

Here are two pictures of the light from my 3 year old Sylvania D1S bulbs:



You should have a similar result when working properly.
.
 
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imquattro
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