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pcotten

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a 2004 V6 with 108K miles. It has been trouble free except the drive shaft bearing thingy problem that cost me $1600.

But today, the engine started shaking loudly while driving home. I didn't notice any problem till the steering wheel started shaking slightly. I thought it could be a wheel issue. But then saw the check engine light flashing on the tachometer (flashing not constantly lighted). I got out of the car and opened the hood and to my shock the engine was actually shaking and making rather loud noises. Got back in the car and drove home very slowly. The needle on the tachometer kept going up and down even though my foot was off the gas. It got louder and louder. The check engine light by now was lighted constantly not flashing like before. No more driving till have the car towed to the shop Monday.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Thanks.
 
I have once but it ended up being my coils and plugs. Mine didn't shake as violently as your describing though. Could this be Cat converter issue? If you turn the car on and look at the cats underneath and see them getting cherry hot, that could be the issue, but then again maybe not. Did you notice it shifting through the gears ok or did it go into safety mode?
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I recently had 100K miles service. Don't know if they were replaced at that point. Regularly had the car serviced as prescribed. Don't know what coils are in fact. I suppose plugs mean spark plugs. This ought to tell you how little I know...:)
 
That's cool, you will be amazed on how much you can learn with this site. Yes plugs are spark plugs and the picture below is me pointing to the coils. That's on top of the intake manifold of a 04' 3.2 and all six of them are the coils. Good luck on monday I hope everything works out.

Alex




 
It's best not to. There's is a specific amount of fuel that mixes with spark of the plug. You can load up the cylinder (with fuel) and that's not a good thing, especially with a dead plug or coil. When it happened to me, yes, the engine was shaking and it had the feeling of it shutting off. When a engine isn't running on all cylinders it will do that.
 
Well for those of us who can't afford, or don't even know what a Vag Com is, we depend on this site to get help. Besides, I have been working on all types of vehicles for 10 years, old and new, and can pretty much tell what the problem is through a simple description.
 
Haha. You can tell what the problem is from a simple description. Thats funny. Also, if you can afford a Touareg, you can afford VAG COM. 249 for the KEY-USB interface or 349 for the HEX-USB+CAN. Thats pretty cheap. And if you dont know what it is, click on the link and read up.

Yeah a simple description may give some pointers as to what the problem may be, but with a code we could almost certainly name the problem.

Not trying to be a **** here, just throwing some info your way.
 
And It's great that you have info, but I have been working on cars for 10 years, and HA, HA, weather you you laugh or not, my greatest acclompishment was building a 555 CU.IN. Motor with close to 900 horse power. And by the way I own a Touareg and I can't afford a Vag Com, so what does that make me? Regardless of what a code gives you, it is always comforting, especially to a new member, to get some kind of info on what's wrong with his Treg. By the way I was 25 when I built the motor, and I have 3 kids, so if I don't fit the bill of owning a Touareg, and Vag Com, Excuse the **** out of me. I am just trying to be helpful to a fellow Treg owner.... Let me know if you need advice on yours and I will be glad to help in any way possibile. Until then don't try to insult my Intelligence without even knowing me
 
its an investment, but a vag com tool is worth it if you do any DIY...if your vehicle is out of warranty it'll pretty much pay for itself with the first repair. Depending on which version you buy, it'll work on just about any VW or Audi, so if you have any friends with a VW/Audi, then it might be worth splitting on it with them.

Most people think of the VAG COM tool as something to change some user setting (ie: removing chimes etc) but there are a LOT of built in diagnostics...running the VAG will tell you about problems you didn't know you had.
 
The Vag-Com can show you problems you don't even know, as Nick pointed out earlier. It really is a great tool. I have one of the eBay knock-offs, and it is limited to what it can do. I'd suggest if anyone's looking for one, go for the gold and get one of the Can-capable cables (Hex-Com+Can or Hex-USB+Can) from Ross-Tech instead of a knock-off. This will ensure compatibility with the latest VW/Audi vehicles.

As far as the "Check Engine Light" flashing, this is generally (from what I've read) a sign to stop driving the vehicle, as a misfire situation has happened. I think the manual actually says stop the vehicle, but am not 100% certain. The problem I've heard is that if it is misfiring, and the fuel is not getting burned, that fuel can make its way to the catalytic converter, and ruin it. This can turn a simple coil pack problem (somewhat common it seems) into a very expensive ordeal.

One thing to try is to try pulling the coil packs one by one, and check them for obvious signs of arcing. They can also fail internally, however, which is where a scan tool can tell you which cylinder is having the issue. I don't know if a free scan over at AutoZone will tell you which cylinder, but since it tripped the CEL it might tell you which cylinder is having the issue. The only thing is you'd have to drive it there, which I'm not sure I'd risk if it is still running rough.

If you do need to buy coil packs, 1stVWParts.com has pretty good prices (much cheaper than a dealer), but you'd have to wait for it/them to be shipped from Washington state.

Hope this helps, good luck!
Matt
 
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