[TouaregNut]

I got the rear battery replaced, it was bad. Anyway I have noticed that the v-meter in cluster only fluctuates between 13.5 and 14 when the engine is cold, once it warms up the voltage meter sticks at 14. I ran VCDS after starting and it showed 13.30 for the front and 13.25 for the rear battery at idle. One thing odd, the fluctuations happen at rpms when going 70 MPH or higher.

Any guidance would be appreciated. Planning to take it to a mechanic tomorrow, would like to be armed with questions based on your responses.

 

[lgibson]

Sounds like you are in for a new alternator. My meter needle began to fluctuate at about130k, as high as 15+ V. I bought a new regulator first. But after seeing how difficult the alternator removal was I returned it and bought the complete unit. Did not want to do that job twice.

 

[VW_lover_2001]

Hi TouaregNut,

Sorry for the delay in this reply. I've not been on here lately due to various issues.

Will do my best to answer your questions as I didn't do the work myself.

1. Pre-ordered parts - we had new intake manifold gaskets ready to go but reused the manifold and rail bolts. No issues with reusing the original bolts 5000 miles on but VW probably recommend replacing them. Probably best to have the flex coupler in hand as you may find to hard to source if you wait until the last minute. You are probably aware but for those that aren't thee are two different brands of alternator/generator Delphi and Hitachi. If you see the manufacturer or part number with a boroscope camera it will help to order the same brand otherwise you will need a conversion kit.

2. Removing the oil filter housing gives access to the oil cooler and some other bolts. It can probably be left in situ but makes life much easier and comes off easy enough.

3. Order of removal - I didn't look over the guys' shoulders as they stripped her down so am guessing here. Would imagine the order will become obvious once you start the process. Double fuel filter housing, intake manifolds, fuel rails, oil filter, oil cooler, coolant lines, etc.

4. You don't need to drain the coolant system. I added 4.5 litres to get it back up to full and it 'burped' itself with no issues once everything was back together.

It does help to cut the coolant lines into smaller sections if you are willing to take a hacksaw to them.

Let us know how you get on.

Kind regards,

Phil

 

[kronangs]

There seems to be a vast range of diagnostic pointers from members here about particular charging concerns that some of us V10 owners experience.

I'd like to put an end to it. I am a ASE Certified Mechanic and also a GM Certified Mechanic so I have somewhat of a grasp on the technical/mechanical operation of automobiles.

My concern that got here:
Noticed the Air Conditioning no longer put out COLD air. It wasn't warm either, just HOT air. It was 104 degrees here in Phoenix that day; which the Touareg usually has no issues cooling the cab down.

I immediately blamed the AC Compressor clutch. Continued driving and a message came up on the DIC, "Consumer Electronics Turned Off." That right there threw a red flag in my face, I must have a charging/battery issue. I glanced over to the factory Voltage Meter, it was hovering around 12.5 plus/minus 0.5 volt. Remembering that there's two batteries in this land-yatch of a vehicle, I then blamed the rear battery. (Front one under driver seat is one year old, Duracell AGM Platinum)

Pulled the rear panel, inspected the battery, it was 3 years old and the sides were bulging indicating the cells were expanding and near failure/possibly failed. As preventative maintenance, I replaced the rear battery to a Duracell AGM Platinum. Fired the vehicle up, same issue, Low voltage! I came on the forum and read for some related issues but didn't find a definitive answer.

Drove the vehicle home from work and noticed the voltage would move slightly up the higher the RPM's. Clearly correlating to engine RPM/Generator speed, I knew I had an issue with the Generator/Alternator. I called the dealership and got a price on some parts. Generator was $680 and some various couplers and belts needed for the job were $50 together. Luckily there's a local generator rebuilding shop near by that'll repair the generator at a much lower price so I opted out of the factory generator and ordered the couplers only.

Onto the R&R, I realized these V10's are scary and a giant pain in the rear. I don't care, I've done MUCH more difficult repairs in my life. I've replaced the passenger side tandem pump from up top, pain, but do-able.

I did not take photos during the process but I will update this thread with pics as I assemble. I will also walk ANYONE through this procedure. Just for a quick overview on what to remove.

Require 10mm Socket, 13mm Socket, 16mm Wrench, 6mm Allen, 5mm Allen, 30Torx, Tripe Square socket set, pliers, hook tool for connectors and hoses.

Intake tubes to throttle bodies.
Throttle bodies.
EGR hard vacuum tubes.
EGR pipes from EGR Cooler to EGR valves.
EGR pipes from EGR Cooler to Exhaust manifold EGR tubes.
EGR Valves
EGR Heater assembly with top actuators intact
Intake Manifolds (BE CAREFUL OF GLOWPLUG WIRES)
Fuel rails (bolts are tough to loosen, be careful. They dont come out completely, just loosen all the way)
Then the four Bolts for the generator are easily accessible!

Lift the REAR of the alternator which is facing the front of the vehicle and pull upward. The coupling sleeve has enough slack to do so.

Reassembly will begin once I get this generator to the rebuilders. Should be a couple days before I go back together.

Hi. My generator just broke on my v10 and I was just wondering how many house of workshop a shop can take to change the generator? Thanks for reply

 

[VW_lover_2001]

Hi Kronangs,

Tour question is like asking asking "HOW LONG IS A PIECE OF STRING?"

I'm not being sarcastic, just honest.

How long it takes will vary depending on your mechanical skill, whether you have a mate helping, whether you have worked on the V10 engine previously, do you have the correct tools, lighting, etc.

It will take several hours to do. The time can be almost halved with a mate helping.

Due to the layout of the engine's components you will have to remove many things to get to the alternatior. Please allow yourself adequate time to complete the job and don't rush it.

 

[PJMax]

Also allow for cleaning up brittle electrical conduits and maybe replacing the glow plug harness while you're at it.

 

[hans]

Let's refresh this older thread with the question of how many hours would be required for an individual to do this job? I know it can depend on the persons ability and experience maybe and whatever snags you'd run in along the way?

 

[TouaregNut]

For a novice mechanic it has taken me about 6 hours just to get the egr valves and cooler off. Not to mention, most of this time was spent trying to figure out what contraption needed to be rigged in order to access tight spots for undoing the bolts and screws - Now the real fun stuff starts.

I just want to mention one thing which is missing in all the videos available. There is a big bolt at the back of the egr cooler that needs to be removed before you can lift it off the rubber pegs.The good thing is, the bolt is on the top. I am surprised VW didn't put it at the bottom.

 

[TouaregNut]

I can see lots of oil in the "valley of death", I know it is hard to answer, but what are the main culprits? Most people have a missing crush washer in the connection for the oil pressure sender, but if the seal around the generator drive shaft is leaking are there any tell tail signs?

Guidance would be appreciated.

 

[lgibson]

I can see lots of oil in the "valley of death", I know it is hard to answer, but what are the main culprits? Most people have a missing crush washer in the connection for the oil pressure sender, but if the seal around the generator drive shaft is leaking are there any tell tail signs?

Guidance would be appreciated.

Are you sure the fluid in the valley is oil? Fuel rail seals are also a possibility. At 120K my block generator drive seal was as good as new but it does sound like yours should be changed if you can find no other source for the leak. Once you get the drive gear off there might possibly see a tell-tale drool down from the shaft. Of course if you go that far might as well tackle the seal.
Oh, and be sure to use new seals around the coolant tubes into the generator. I learned that the hard way. I also remember getting the plug end of one of the glow plug harnesses trapped by a bracket.

 

[TouaregNut]

Are you sure the fluid in the valley is oil? Fuel rail seals are also a possibility. At 120K my block generator drive seal was as good as new but it does sound like yours should be changed if you can find no other source for the leak. Once you get the drive gear off there might possibly see a tell-tale drool down from the shaft. Of course if you go that far might as well tackle the seal.
Oh, and be sure to use new seals around the coolant tubes into the generator. I learned that the hard way. I also remember getting the plug end of one of the glow plug harnesses trapped by a bracket.

Lgibson, thanks for the tips. It is definitely oil, it is like molasses. With the Treg over 220k miles. I am fearing it might be the seal, as l see the underside of the EGR cooler splattered with oil. Initially I thought it was the drive belt picking up oil from the pool below and flicking it all over but on closer inspection it was dry with no sign of oil. But still keeping my fingers crossed hehehehe.

As for the seals around the coolant tubes, I assume you mean the clamps?

 

[lgibson]

Oh yeah, 220K! Do the seal.

 

[lgibson]

Lgibson, thanks for the tips. It is definitely oil, it is like molasses. With the Treg over 220k miles. I am fearing it might be the seal, as l see the underside of the EGR cooler splattered with oil. Initially I thought it was the drive belt picking up oil from the pool below and flicking it all over but on closer inspection it was dry with no sign of oil. But still keeping my fingers crossed hehehehe.

As for the seals around the coolant tubes, I assume you mean the clamps?

No, the aluminum tubes plug into the back end of the alternator and are sealed with 2x N-907-834-01 Seal Ring. I thought I could get by without new ones but had a leak. This is a job you do not want to do twice! Same way with the alternator: I thought perhaps replacing only the regulator would suffice, After the hours it took to get in there I said no way I'm redoing this. Sent the regulator back and bought the whole thing.

 

[lgibson]

No, the aluminum tubes plug into the back end of the alternator and are sealed with 2x N-907-834-01 Seal Ring. I thought I could get by without new ones but had a leak. This is a job you do not want to do twice! Same way with the alternator: I thought perhaps replacing only the regulator would suffice, After the hours it took to get in there I said no way I'm redoing this. Sent the regulator back and bought the whole thing.

 

[TouaregNut]

I was finally able to pull out the genny, didn't think it was going to be that heavy. I was surprised to see the drive belt in great condition, maybe just a little wear. The belt seems very hard with little to no flex, is it suppose to be like that?

 

[lgibson]

Just looked at my old (120K) one. Like new and very stiff.

 

[TouaregNut]

Was wondering if there is a place where I can buy the boots for the glow plug connectors. The wires are in great shape, even the conduit is still shielding so don't want to chuck it away if I can save it.

 

[Togwotee]

Was wondering if there is a place where I can buy the boots for the glow plug connectors. The wires are in great shape, even the conduit is still shielding so don't want to chuck it away if I can save it.

Yes, you can go to an auto parts supplier and buy a couple of sets of spark plug wires That have straight boot ends, and are made out of silicone rubber. You can pull off the ends for your glow plugs. Might be helpful to use some heat shrink over the wire to the connectors to make the OD of the wires fit the ID of the plug wire boots. Followed this doing my ends years ago w/o any issues!

 

[TouaregNut]

I think the oil leak on my Treg is coming from the oil cooler as there is a pool of oil under it. The oil in the frame area over which the genny sits was not high enough to slosh over.

I am seriously considering changing the seals on the housing. Any thing I need to be careful with when lifting the housing?

 

[veeten]

Looking for guidance on installing the fuel rails on my v10

Nearing the finish line on project oil in the vee cleanup

Task now is installing the fuel rails, question being , do the rails need a small love tap on the rail to get the seals seated or is tightening the bolts the way

Any insight appreciated