Just a precautionary tale, did you reset/clear the error codes via VCDS? Clear all codes a few times for good measure to see if it's just faulty response.

Just talked about this to a VW mechanic yesterday while fixing a Honda Accord. Funny how this came up today after talking to him about this repair adventure not too long ago with his daughter's VW. He did the same thing. Cleared the codes, error didn't show up. As he drove off, 1 mile later, code came up. Cleared it again, suspecting a faulty TCM since everything "appeared intact". Error came up again. He got pissed off, cleared a few times, too a chance and drove for a solid 50 miles, and error disappeared at the 50 miles mark. He came back, cleared the codes again for good measure, and code has not came back ever since.

 

I did reset and drive it. Sometimes it comes back as solenoid 3 and sometimes solenoid 6, but I've checked the harnesses and the valve body is new. And as I said all the solenoid ohm out correctly. 2 things I noticed today, even with no codes the tranny is still in limp mode. And, I drove with the vcds running and looking at live data of the amperage being sent to the solenoids and none of them ever moved. They all showed 0.000. Shouldn't they be getting the signals from the TCM and getting voltage to pulse? This also makes me think I have a bad TCM. I'm at my wits end with this car. Any help is appreciated!

 

This was as I was driving. I'm not a VCDS expert but isn't this live and shouldn't there be something showing besides 0.000? Thanks again

 

Can you check continuity in the wiring harness? Oh each pin. I've never had one apart, but others have said (here) that sometimes the harness was faulty.

 

Perform what @FSJ Guy indicated. You may indeed have a bad TCM if there's no current continuity going through the harness during shifts. Don't replace the TCM until you perform this test using a low inductive current through the hardness.

 

I checked the harness for continuity on each wire from the TCM to the 14 pin pass through connector at the transmission and all tested good. I also ohm tested the solenoids using the same harness by testing at the corresponding pins on the TCM and each solenoid ohm'd out within spec and all the same. This should indicate the valve body harness inside the transmission is good, correct? Valve body has been replaced and harness was visually inspected then. All of this, and no current going to the solenoids leads me to believe its the TCM? Thanks for the replies and the help. I really need this car back on the road.

 

Also, can anyone confirm if the TCM is plug and play or will it need reprogrammed or reflashed? And if so will I be able to do it with VCDS? Thanks again

 

Good job on the TCM diagnostic. You got a bad TCM. TCM only needs a battery pull terminals. Most of the time, we just leave it off for 30 minutes for good measure after clearing all codes. I have yet to hear from VW mechanic doing a reprogram on the TCM. They just use the defaults, unless there have been extensive mods with aftermarket ECM and high performance parts installed like some people I know at the local racing shops.

 

Well, the TCM did not solve my issue. Same 00262 solenoid 3 open or short to ground code. Still in limp mode. I cleared the code several times and reset the TCM and it didn't fix it. Someone was telling me that the solenoids can ohm out correctly and still be bad? That if it is shorted to ground, then if the wire is broken or pinched and contacting anything in the trans, that it would still ohm correctly. So at the this point the next step is to drop the pan again and check the harness, correct? The valve body was replaced, and the harness visually inspected, but a shop did that prior to me bringing it home, because I lost confidence in the shop. Perhaps they missed a break or short in the harness? I don't know what else it could be at this point! I'm stumped and frustrated. If anyone has any ideas or more information on how the solenoid could ohm test good but there still be an issue with the internal harness please help...I'm all ears! Thanks!

 

Sending out APB to the boys to see what they say. But, if the shop recently performed the job, always good to go back and perform a back-trace, even if it means dropping the pan.

Since you've replaced the TMC in the plenum chamber, suggestion is to comb through all the TMC harnesses carefully again. If visual inspection is good, without any sign of kink or damage, or even a slight exposure in the wire, drop the pan next. Remember that a light kink will not send a code since the short is not enough to trigger an error, but still cause havoc, since the short continues to trigger/hinder shifts. Comb through each wire very, very, very carefully. I have a high intensity focused LED flashlight to look for the break/kink, rather than just a flood workshop lamp that we tend to use. This will make us miss quite a bit. While you're tracing the harness back to the circuit, check the foil circuit to see if there's issue, kink, damage, or signs of shorts, including ground that may be coming loose. There are way too many things can go wrong down there.

 

This car is killing me. I dropped the pan and pulled the valve body harness completely off. Bench tested it for continuity and everything checked out good. There was one wire that may have been a little loose at the plug on solenoid 3, the one that was throwing the code, so I tightened it up but everything checked out as far as continuity goes. Put it all back together and I have the same code, 00262. I am totally stumped. At this point I have checked the harness from the TCM to the transmission, replaced the valve body, replaced the TCM, and pulled the pan and checked the harness real good. I literally don't know what else it could be and I am beyond frustrated. I don't know if I should take it to a dealer, where I am sure they would charge me and arm and a leg, trade it in like it is where I would get screwed, or what. If anyone has any ideas I am all ears! Thanks again for the help and suggestions that got me this far.

 

Sorry to have Jallen, the boys at the stop are a bit stumped too. They don't know what else to throw at you without diving into the car themselves.

Make sure to take detailed notes what you've done, and what had been replaced/repaired/inspected. Since TCM is replaced, valve lock connector has been inspected without any broken pins/warped/kinked wire/debris-gunk, and the wire harnesses are traced and no issues with bare wires and discontinuity, including ohm test, the boys suggested to:

1. Disassemble, perform ohm check again for all valves to match between cold vs warm/hot.
2. Do a full clean of the valve body (an hour or so for meticulous work).
3. Inspect valve body under a magnifying glass for possible crack, chip, or remaining debris.
4. Replace old harnesses with new ($$)
5. Replace new valve (you've did).
6. Reperform ohm check on all valve.
6. Reassemble, clear codes, and retest.

They indicated that working on the valve body issues, they have yet to find resolution in just one or two passes. You're not the only one with frustration. If they're lucky, their resolution would go well without any issue in the first few months. There were a few "return" cases after the first try.

 

Does it need adaptation?

 

I have cleared the codes to no avail. Is there a way to specifically reset each module? I am just learning the VCDS. I disconnected the battery last night and left it unhooked and charging it up just in case. I will post results of a new scan when I get home. Thanks for the help!

 

Alright guys, some good news...I ended up replacing the valve body wiring harness and the treg came out of limp mode! I refilled the tranny as per spec letting it warm to 35*C then pumping fluid in the pan until it spilled over the stand pipe. The car is shifting as it should and driving fine. So far I've only got about 20 miles on it, but the tranny seems to be working as it should.

Here is the new problem...I have gotten a check engine light 3 times and the code is 01192, torque converter lock up clutch - mechanical failure - MIL on. I have reset the code and it has came back 3 times but has currently been off for about 7 miles (my drive to work.) The valve body is new (well...reman from Revmax) could this code just be from needing to be driven some to work the new fluid through everything properly? I have not felt any slipping at all...seems to shift fine, etc. I have read a few things that suggest to perform a throttle body adaptation and kick down adaptation and the code will not come back? Something else I read said to keep clearing it and it will eventually stay off? Any thoughts on this? Thanks for all the help to get me back on the road!

 

Let's break it down:

1. How much tranny fluid, compared to the drain, after the wire replacement? Need to see if the lack of fluid is an issue first. Fluid spilling out part, I'm not confident with it. I do volume-out-volume in matching as much as I can. IfI can introduce more, even better.

2. New valve body shouldn't cause that issue. I haven't heard any code being thrown back from RevMax. Like a few have mentioned with their nightmares with remanufactured parts, they mostly stuck with RevMax.

3. This is all the guessing game from here on out. The best thing to do is to try it all. My suggestion is keep clearing it out. What I've done:

a. Clear all codes.
b. Unplug battery. Leave it off for a good 30 to 60 mins.
c. Drive to see if code comes back.
d. Move forward with the other methods.

Most of the grease monkey do a wipe and pray method. Then proceed to throwing tools with lots of cursing under blasting musics.

 

Ionman I really appreciate all your help on this! I did not measure what came out. I simply followed the standard refill procedure allowing it to warm up and then pumping in fluid until it overflowed. I cleared it once again and will keep driving it and see if it comes back, and if so I will try to stuff some more fluid in there. As I said, it seems to be shifting fine. I will keep you posted!

Thanks again, if we weren't on opposite coasts I would buy you a beer!

 

LOL Not a problem buddy. I've been in your shoes, and no one around me to assist. Everything I've learned was based on hanging around with grease monkeys, and people that live near me whom I've met through online, as well as friends-of-friends. Like you, I bought quite a bit of beer during my days hanging with them, as results, we got ourselves cooked quite a few times for being stupid buzzed while doing works on hot engines.

 

DSG when it dies (the valve body). a few things start to happen.

Contamination of oil (bad for TQ converter)
Clutches wear out
High pressure oil leaks internally

By the time you notice, bad things are already happening inside.

 

DSG? The Touaregs have an Aisin auto box.

 

The valve body didn't die. The problem was an electrical short in the internal wiring harness that attaches to the solenoids on the valve body. Clean fluid, no mechanical issues at all with the tranny. As stated earlier, it is now shifting fine and I am not feeling any slipping or anything, however the CEL is back on again after about 60 miles of driving. Would low fluid cause the 01192 (P0811) code? I am afraid maybe I didn't get enough fluid back in it.

 

Yes, low tranny oil can flag it. This is why I monitor my fluid-out-fluid-in as a mantra. When out is equal to in, or even a bit more going in to top things off at an acceptable level, I smile. When too much in, not enough out, or too much out, and not enough in, I worry...a lot.

Try the other methods. If you have issues after the other method, be ready to perform a light clutch sensor replacement, since there's no slippage, and the shifts are hopefully buttery smooth.

Your research is as good as mechanic. When a code pops up, I have yet to see any mechanic knows everything there is to know about the code. It's all guessing game, and start with the smallest possible culprit first, and work towards the big one.

 

Update....so I've got about 120 miles on the car. Last night I reset the learning adapts, and did a throttle body and kick down adaptation. I drove it about 10 miles, CEL came back one, same 01192, excessive TCC slip, reset it and drove about 20 more miles with no light. This morning 2 miles into my drive the CEL came back on, same code. I've reset it probably 7 times, and after 120 miles it doesn't look like its going away on its own. Whats next? Do I try to get more fluid in it just in case its low? Do I have a bad reman Revmax valve body? I am stumped! Still shifting and driving great, no noticeable slip at all. Also, will it do any damage to drive it like this? Once again, THANKS!

 

@noobytoogy and the more experienced may have some inputs.

I'll based on my eval going from minimalist to save money, towards the extreme end there after.

1. Shifting is good and smooth, which indicates valves are good. Valves are not to worry.

2. Replacement of the old valve body with the new one, my suggestion is to contact RevMax to be ready to ship this baby back, after asking the representative for possible cure, based on the sudden 01192 code, which possibly be P0472 within the nested VCDS 01192 code?

First, check the tranny fluid. Fill it up following protocol of heating up the tranny oil.

However, my suggestion is to also check your differential fluid. Don't know why, but the Honda Pilot threw some weird code like this because the differential oil was low, in combination with low tranny fluid. We did the tranny fluid filters and refill, but the code still came up. We did the differential flush (over 60k miles already) and fill just as a low end culprit tracking, and no more code. We scratched our heads.

This is just my assumption, but during the valve body replacement, a possible reconnection of the hardnesses may be loose, or a gap was not properly sealed among the hardness, which then caused the tranny oil to intrude into the pins. Although the signals allow the valves to engage and disengage properly, one or two valves may be left "sticky", slightly opened, or, the valve body wasn't properly gone through quality inspection. Let's go with the cheaper route by assuming the torque converter is not receiving enough oil, as you did not monitor the volume-out vs volume-in. Follow all 3 resets methods you have done earlier at one time. Drive, and see the codes come back up.

3. If the code comes back, the next option is to wait for RevMax to come back to you, seeing the company offered a solution, or a possible replacement. Replace the valve body again.

4. If codes come back even with a replacement valve body, ensure all the hardnesses/looms are properly sealed without kinks/damages, as the shifting is buttery smooth, you may have a torque converter failure. This is a hefty cost, not for the part, but primarily the labor. It's fun to drop the car's bottom, and yank out the torque converter with pure brute force, but it's time consuming being slow and meticulous, not to damage anything else in the process.

 

Since my office mate was an ex-mechanic, I talked to him. We're scientists, engineers and geologists around here, but we have no choice but to expose ourselves in various fields to deal with the unforeseen circumstances. Some of the prior jobs were to earn enough cash to put ourselves through years of expensive colleges.

Now, his recommendation were:

Possible clutch pack failure? $$$

Has the person check the tranny pressure in the line? Hm...I slipped my noggins. Not enough pressure creates issues with plates. This is why it's good to check the oil level. Low oil level causes pressure issue. Aside from that, check lines for cracks, seals, and when fluid exposure is occurring, possible clogs after so many weeks/months. Imagine your blood vessels with clog. Yeahhh...no bueno.

 

I'm no further use on this one I'm afraid.