Mine is set up like this (this is standard):

Lay out of 7 pin plug :
Pin No:1 - Yellow wire left indicator
Pin No:2- Black wire- accessories- this supplies power from car to charge the Breaksafe battery unit on my float.
Pin No:3- White - Earth
Pin No:4- Green - right indicator
Pin No:5- Blue- electric brakes
Pin No:6-Red Stop Lights
Pin No:7- exterior and interior lights

So no, didn't need to change anything for me to supply trickle voltage. When you test pin 2 it comes up as a strobing signal. Not sure of the voltage but the setup was compliant with national standards.

 

Howdy,

Hmmm, so you didn't need to change pin 2 at all? My Pin 2 also has a trickle voltage of between approx 2.5V & 5V.

The brake unit on the trailer is asking for 12V at 25amp for power - this is in addition to the "i should brake now" signal received by pin #5 from the in car controller.

Can you please confirm you didn't need to change pin #2's power for the brakes on the trailer. If not, then are your brakes on your trailer powered by the trickle charge? ie, the trickle charge tops up the brakeaway battery kit and the brakeaway battery feeds the brake unit?

I currently have my car booked in to see a Bosch Auto Electrician who is going to feed 12V from one of the power boards on the T'Reg (I think). He says there are two, one in the front and one in the back.

Hope that makes sense. The attached image should assist

Cheers

 

Also, what braking system do you have? Is it a Carlsile / Hydrastar?

This may be the difference...

 

The black wire contrary to normal wisdom (of black being ground), on a trailer plug, is a +ve reverse or auxiliary wire. I think if you put the car into reverse, a relay will liven this wire.

If my memory is intact, I think I was advised (by an auto electrician) that to run a fridge off a trailer, he has to install a relay switch to control +ve supply to the black reverse/auxiliary wire. so I suggest you call an auto-electrician.

 

The black wire contrary to normal wisdom (of black being ground), on a trailer plug, is a +ve reverse or auxiliary wire. I think if you put the car into reverse, a relay will liven this wire.

If my memory is intact, I think I was advised (by an auto electrician) that to run a fridge off a trailer, he has to install a relay switch to control +ve supply to the black reverse/auxiliary wire. so I suggest you call an auto-electrician.

Not sure about that, I saw the VW guy test the black line with a trailer testing unit when my car was in park and the testing unit was showing a strobing voltage at that time.

Dunno what it'd do if the car was in reverse mind you.

 

Hmmm nup no 'special wiring' was required.

I first had my Tekonsha P3 hooked up to the standard trailer wiring within the car until it was discovered by Volkswagen that the mob who did that stuffed it up so they created a seperate line (that didn't interfere with the can-bus network). Having said that the original setup DID work (albeit the wiring was dodgy so it ended up killing the car).

Basically all I did was get the P3 hooked up properly and plugged the float into the car. The float is 1.14 tonne (gvm 2500kg) and as mentioned has a trickle load breaksafe breakaway unit, internal lights and lights in the tackbox.

Dunno what your rig has nor what voltage supply where you need it but I do know that for my float the internal lighting and the tack box lighting runs off the black line.

I would have thought your proportional break controller would have been responsible for all the stuff you're talking about.

 

That's interesting, and in addition, I'm not that handy with electrical things so have never understood the explanation given to me.

I did ask a few silly question, about why the connection is not made direct from the reverse light wire to pin 2 and he gave me a response which I didn't understand but that in cars everything is controlled by relay so I left it at that.....and by now I'm really confused, but anyhow, I"m told a simple relay switch would add auxiliary power for running a fridge, it need NOT be a separate wire going to the trailer and that it CAN come off pin 2 AND be independent of the reverse light, even though it comes off the reverse light trailer pin.

Hope everyone else is confused too ....seriously, I would be very interested in how it's resolved, it does appear that at least on cyber...kid, that the black wire is indeed live.....without any mod.

 

at least on cyber...kid, that the black wire is indeed live.....without any mod.

Got me confused s I measured mine this morning, no strobe/voltage, then I thought a bit more, if it's live then the reverse light on any trailer would be on all the time .......

 

Could be your controller.

I have an American Four Winns boat trailer which has an electric over hydraulic braking system. I initially installed a Tekonsha P3 brake controller which proved not to be compatible with my setup. I then sort advice and was told the only controller which would work was a Hayes Genesis.

This has now been installed in 2 consecutive Tregs and works perfectly.

 

mate,
I'm no auto-electrician but-
25-40 amps (12volts) is a lot of power and I would think needs a bigger wire than found in the standard loom.

best ask a pro

bagger

,

 

On the subject of wiring - my 12v outlet in the luggage compartment is powered off the ignition. This is a pain when I'm running my fridge, as the fridge does not stay cold enuf during non-driving time.
The dealer told me it was major (read expensive) job to have it altered to 'always live'.
Anyone got any experience, or suggestions?
I have a factory trailer hitch for towing a boat - is this 'no. 2' black wire always live? if so could it be re-directed?

Alan

 

Alan I currently run a fridge on a separate dual battery that I installed under the spare tyre. You can get constant power directly from your battery under the front passenger seat. You just need to fuse the wiring. I run a 20amp projector 3 stage charger to a 75amp deep cycle battery. I can run my 47ltr ARB fridge for 2.5 days with out starting the car to charge it.
I then changed the cigaret lighter in the rear passenger area to my dual battery.
Don't need to worry about fridge running my main battery flat.

 

Hi Alan. I know nothing about wire in these cars but i have a separate battery pack (waceo ) that i plug in to one of the 12volt sockets so when i stop the battery pack keeps the fridge running when i start the car power goes back in to the battery pack. From memory i purchased it new for about $329. Also means if i want i can run the fridge out of the car or even 12 volt lights. It will usually run my fridge for about 24 hours depending on outside temps.

 

Brake controller

towrig did you ever get this problem solved???

 

I had my pin 2 (black) hard wired by an auto-elec as this is the wire which charges the back up battery for the breakaway unit on my trailer.
If your trailer ever comes off the ball and activates the switch, this battery will power the brakes for 20 minutes, giving you enough time to take some action.

 

Thanks Singh - great tip.......but your fuse numbers don't marry up with my TDIV6 - my 12v outlets are LHS fuses no. 1, 2, 3, & 5, and 29 & 30 are empty.
In order for me to find a suitable source of permanently live power, can you pls tell me which circuit you tapped?

Appreciate your help......

Alan

 

Hate to dig up an old thread, but just wondering if anyone has any recent experience with this.

If cut the black reverse wire and ran a fused wire from upfront, would i get any errors (besides the reversing light bulb dash error) Do I need to VAG anything?

Currently when I test pin 2, it strobes as well, from 2-5v and I don't really want to cut any wires from an OEM trailer loom if I don't have to.