The vent is just above the exhaust manifold. it's only a small vent , couple of mm in diameter but the oily 'black death' is the usual giveaway.

That sounds like a seal is completely gone, they do get loud. But at that stage it should trigger a CEL.

Do you have VCDS?

 

I don’t have VCDS but can borrow from a friend. Is CEL a warning light on instrument or only an error showing on VCDS? Thanks

 

Wow if that's a seal it's gotta be gone like Danny said

 

Sorry should have updated earlier, I replaced all six seals, o-rings, bolts a couple of weeks ago. Not so hard to do but fiddly cleaning bores. FYI here are old seals (all needed replacing, 2 & 4 leaking)

 

Do you re-used the bolts? Do you had issues with copper washers remaining in the engine block and no in the injector? Thanks.

 

Yep that would do it.
Bet it runs smoother now.

Thanks for getting back to us.
It helps the forum when people search for similar symptoms even though injector seals are quite common on these engines.

 

Bolts are TTY so one use only.

 

Yes, you must replace the bolts and o-rings as well as copper washers (I used parts from VW as piece of mind). One washer didn’t come out with the injector, however it was easy to get out with a little grabber tool. I also used one of those tools from Amazon that has a plug you can insert where the injector tip goes to stop the crud going into the bore.

 

I just replaced mine last weekend @ 120k miles. It seems like either the copper seals compressed over time or the bolts stretched or backed out, because most of the hold down bolts were not even tight. This sounds a lot louder than mine were leaking too.
I seem to think best case is some carbon buildup on the tips. The copper seals are just loose on the end of the injectors. When I broke the #1 injector loose (which wasn't leaking) with the slide hammer, it held onto the injector just long enough for the injector to clear the bore in the head and I heard it rattle down into the valve cover. FUUUUUU!! Which ended up requiring removing the pass side valve cover to find the seal.
I put a dab of grease on the new seals so they would cling to the injectors during install and that worked well.

 

Hi to all,

Yesterday I replaced the 3 seals of the injectors, 1.- Cooper seals: all of them were in excellent condition, I replaced them anyway, 2.- The middle O-ring(s) were red, in a very thin condition, I replaced them with OEM black ones (more thicker)
After the job, I started the engine and I noticed less noise coming of the engine, besides absence of fumes.

Regards.

 

2.- The middle O-ring(s) were red, in a very thin condition, I replaced them with OEM black ones (more thicker)

This seems interesting.....

 

Update of my previous cooper seals replacement: I have a lot of fumes in the cabin during stop light, no hissing sound in the engine, I felt that 6 NM it too loose, even after the 2nd stage of 90°, I read in some russian forums they use 10-20Nm of torque, maybe I forgot something?
Before the replacement I haven´t fumes, hissing, black soot, I replaced the seals as preventive maintenance..

Thanks for your comments.

 

Did you replace or reuse the bolts?

 

Bolts replaced, new ones from ebay..

 

Ebay... awesome!
What did you use to clean up the seats and the bores?

 

I used the injector seat cutter, then a screwdriver with cotton, and finally, I used a vacuum shop, I took photos at the end, all nice and clean.

 

I can only suspect your ebay bolts were not proper TTY....
Did the seals and o-rings also come from ebay\China?

 

I can only suspect your ebay bolts were not proper TTY....
Did the seals and o-rings also come from ebay\China?

Seals and O-rings from china, bolts from Austin Tx, I shared links from ebay but the post is under moderator approval, regards, I think I´m gonna re-check torque in all of them..

 

Ebay doesn't only have parts from China. Lots of sellers sell OEM parts also. I know because I've bought OEM from there myself.

 

I bought from this links:
Genuine Volkswagen Bolt WHT-004-923-B | eBay (Austin Tx)
6 set Injector Nozzle Seal Rings Kit Fit For AUDI Q5 3.0 TDI quattro DCPC VW | eBay (China)

 

I ALWAYS tap the injector into the bore using my injector slide hammer to ensure its fully seated. Sometimes the orings can give a false impression that it's fully seated which then leads to the issue your having. I'm not saying it is your issue , usually caused by the copper washer deteriorating which causes bolt to loose over time. Yours are new so it's highly likely it's not that.

 

Thanks for your comments, yesterday I inspected the engine bay and i found the black death in the piston (driver side, front engine), I removed the injector and found a lot of tar in the injector, the cooper seal was intact but with marks that has not been sealing properly, I saw a bypass between the engine block and the cooper seal, I clean the injector, cut the engine block seat with the cutter (I removed small amount of powder aluminum), then I cleaned the face with a large screwdriver and cotton (t-shirt), It seems nice and clean and installed all stuff again. I reuse the TTY bolt same 6Nm and 90°, I hope this resolves the issue.
Do you have a video or photo of the "tap injector" procedure you mentioned?

Thanks.

 

I realize that you're down there, but please replace the single use bolt.... it's just not worth it.

Injector Hold Down Bolt (CNRB)(CPNB)

Injector hold down bolt for the 3.0L V6 VW/TDI models with the CPNB or CNRB engine code....

www.idparts.com

 

Thanks for your comments, I will buy new parts again (but now from IDParts), I will clean the bore only with gasoline, I will return with comments, wish me luck!

 

Good luck... but what the hell lead you to buy such critical parts from China in the first place?

 

Hi I am about to have no 6 injector changed and new seals done but my problem is can't find new rocker cover gasket that doesn't come with the rocker cover! What has everyone been doing instead? If it's not visibly damaged do you reuse, or use a bit of sealant?

 

This is my actual readings, should I inspect only #4 and #6 fuel injector?
Do yo know the correct firing order? like this:
--- FIREWALL ---
(1)---(4)
(2)---(5)
(3)---(6)
--- RADIATOR ---

 

This is my actual readings, should I inspect only #4 and #6 fuel injector?

I'm not seeing anything "common" between the two..... what is it that you're seeing?

 

Interesting... so if utoob tells you they all need to be zero, why aren't you looking at replacing all of them?
Also, those values do not isolate any part of the system specifically... they simply indicate that there's those levels of adjustments that the ecu is making on each of the cylinders to keep things as smooth as possible.

 

I think there's a language barrier so be easy with sarcasm rusky

 

What's your point?

 

End of discussion, thanks to the forum users for your comments, regards!