I also recommend using VW's fuel filter and not some after market. Although I believe in saving money, I do not believe it is worth using potentially subpar parts on such an expensive vehicle. Plus, I do not want any warranty issues if something were to go wrong down the road. Technically, that is a risk you run by doing the fuel filter yourself. There is no record of the maintenance. Save the receipt for your fuel filter to show it was changed.

 

Mann and Mahle filters are top quality. There is nothing subpar about them, nor are there any warranty risks. In the US, we have Magnuson-Moss to protect from that. So, technically there is no risk in doing it yourself. The notion that you need to use a dealer for service under warranty is an old wives tale. Keep records and receipts.

 

Those of you TDI owners may be well aware that every 40k you need to replace the fuel filter. The stealership wanted 400 dollars plus 150 for the oil change; totaling 650 bucks for the 40k service. Below is a link on replacing the fuel filter on a tdi passat. the set up is identical on 2012 forward Touaregs (not sure about the 2011's).

2012 Passat TDI - Fuel Filter Change Procedure - YouTube

So just some minor differences. Ours is towards the back and not as close to the front of the compartment. I pretty much did exactly what he did but I did not suck out all of the fuel in the compartment. I just took the filter out. Then dipped the new filter into diesel fuel first to make sure it soaks it up (BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANY FUEL IN THE TOP HOLE OF THE FILTER BECAUSE THAT IS THE CLEAN SIDE).

Also, I did take some fuel out and slowly put the new filter in. If it looked like it was going to spill over the top of the filter i pulled it out and took some fuel out. If it looked like it could handle a little extra fuel, I added some. Put a little diesel fuel on your fingers and moisturize the blue seals on the new filter. This will help ensure it seals properly.

I did not have a small enough torque wrench. I am a firm believer in torqueing to the right specs so that the proper pressure is applied to the seals. If you are not tight enough it could leak, if you are too tight it could potentially leak by pinching the rubber seal too much. As I said, I did not have one so I took a little risk and tightened them firmly. Be sure to tighten evenly and across from one another just as you would if you were putting on a wheel.

This is key. With this new set up, there really is no need to use a vagcom to prime. If you make sure there is enough fuel in the container and if you make sure you presoaked your filter first, it should fire right up. I did as an extra precaution, push the start button without hitting the brake and then did the same thing to turn it back off. I did this like 3 times without actually turning over the car. Then I did start the car as I normally would and it fired right up. I would say it turned over a half a second to a full second longer than normal. Barely noticeable. I then drove it around for a few minutes to make sure it was was good to go. I think i saw a power improvement and better throttle response.


Some last few tidbits. Before removing the top on the fuel filter canister, make sure you clean the area so that no particles fall in. Second tie back the canister top with a zip tie to make it easier for you to work. You do not want the nipple of the top to get any dirt on it.

In the end this cost me 60 instead of 400 bucks. I still had them do my oil change because I do not see much of a benefit in doing that myself. To much work and mess for very little savings.

BTW- at the oil change, I was quoted 160. I thought that included filling my adblue tank. They called me and said my adblue was low (no crap there was a warning on my dash). They wanted 89 dollars to fill it. Seriously the VW fluid costs 16 bucks. I plan to do that myself as well. Just buy the small bottle first since it has the attachment. Then cut the bottom off and pour the bigger bottle into that whenever you want to fill it (almost like a funnel). I prefer to use the VW small bottle to fill it because it protects you against over filling and spilling over, which could cause other issues.


Hope this helps any other adventurous people who like to save money and try to do some of the easier things on their own.

I've been going through about 4 gallons of DEF every 10 to 11k miles in my 2012. I top my DEF off when I do the oil changes, myself, since it doesn't seem possible for VW technicians to top it off without spilling DEF everywhere, with their stupid funnel and jug filling techniques, leaving white corrosive crystals over every thing.

Most containers I've seen for DEF are the 2.5 gallon type, so buy 2 if you plan on topping the DEF tank in the spare tire area yourself.

 

I am glad you posted this. So just to make sure, if my gauge says 800 miles to go then do you think I can add the entire 2 big jugs? Can you see when it is getting close to full? to be honest I havent even looked back there. I just do not want to over-fill it. I heard this can cause problems. I do want to fill it to the top though so I do not have to go through this more than every 10k-11k, which is about how long mine has been lasting. Do you use your own funnel or did you buy the small bottle and make that your funnel?

 

First off, update your profile for the correct vehicle.

I'd pour 2.5 gallons in first, via a funnel, slowly. Then I'd empty the 2 liter bottle in. Then I'd cut a small half moon in the bottom of the 2 liter bottle, screw it on the tank fillup, and pour 2 ilters in from a big bottle, press down, see what the main tank will take, repeat as necessary until your main tank won't take any more DEF from the 2 liter bottle. pour remaining DEF back into the 2.5 gallon bottle until next time.

I'd do this before I took the car in for an oil change, top it off yourself, then turn your ignition on without starting for 30 seconds, to reset the DEF sensors to full.

 

Hmm I thought I did that a while ago. Thanks for reminding me and the tip.

 

Changing the fuel filter is one of the easiest maintenance operations on this TDI. 10 minutes start to finish. One thing, OP states every 40k miles, my owner's manual (2012) says every 20k miles. Just wish the filter was a tad cheaper.

 

How much is it at dealer?

 

For my Passat TDI, on my last visit for maintenance at the dealer (30,000 km), I was in the shop looking the tech perform is work. For the fuel filter, he put some rags around the bowl, remove the screws, pull away the cap, remove slowly the filter and slowly put the new one in, put the cap and screws back and start the engine. That's it and that's all. He din't drain the fuel out of the bowl and ''clean'' it. And honestly, I don't like to use paper towell or rag to wipe out the inner bowl because you will leave some small paper fibers (or cotton fibers) on the surface of the bowl and it can do more damage than good.

 

That's a non issue, the moment you put the new fuel filter in, anything left from a rag or paper towel is on the pre filtered side of the fuel, not the filtered side of the fuel, so the fuel filter will catch whatever gets left behind, down to about 7 microns. Better to get any rough stuff, and water, out of the bottom of the canister than leave it in there. VW foolishly removed the water drain from the bottom of the canister, where water, being heavier than D 2, would visibly collect at the bottom of the fuel bowl, to be drained off.

Now you have to wipe the whole fuel canister out instead to remove all traces of water in the fuel filter canister. Dumb design, for a diesel.

Wipe the canister out, clean, and dry. Insert filter, torque the top bolts, and cycle your ignition switch on for 30 seconds without starting, turn off, repeat 3 times.

The passat system is different from the Touareg system. It has solenoid injectors and operates at lower pressures than the Touareg, which has piezo injectors and operates at 2000 bar fuel rail pressure.

 

Niner,

Just curious, the last time you change the fuel filter, have you find any trash and water in the bottom of the bowl filter ?

With the use of fuel additives (Power Service) at every fill up, do you think we can find residual water in the bowl ?

 

It's not relevant what I find in my fuel canister, no one else buys fuel where I do, or lives and operates their TDI where I do. Service methods are set up to address worst case scenarios.

If you'd like to know the proper procedure, for both cars, get Windows ELSA software for the proper procedure of doing filter changes on both vehicle models.

I share what I do with my maintenance, for my own piece of mind, YMMV what you deem important when doing an R&R on your own fuel filter.

It's my belief that Power Service White bottle helps keep your fuel dry in normal conditions. All bets are off in abnormal conditions, or poor maintenance of diesel storage fuel tanks with gravity dropping roofs overhead and seals at the endge. YMMV, and caveat emptor apply. I try to use common sense, plenty of folks here way smarter than me on servicing diesels.

 

What service manual do you use to know the torque values for the filter cap bolts?

 

On my Treg and Passat, the torque value for the screws is stamp on the filter bowl cover.

 

It's 5 +/-1 Nm (5X)

5X is for 5 screws. And 5 Nm is approx 3,5 - 3,75 lbs-ft or 40 to 45 lbs-in

Lot of sense for the size of the screws.

 

My bad, I was thinking about the cap torque for the oil filter canister at 15 NM, not the fuel filter.

 

You guys use diesel fuel additives? I have been scared to use anything other than just straight diesel. If so what ones do you recommend?

 

Power Service white bottle, I buy it at Walmart or on sale 96 oz at a time, add about 6 or 7 oz per tankful, most fillups. Keeps moisture out of your diesel fuel, and keeps the fuel dry. I will double dose in the fall at the sign of the first freeze also, for 2 tankfuls.

 

Use VAG-COM

This post gave me the confidence that this was a quick and easy job on by 2012 TDI... and it was. My filter was black, though I don't know if that particularly means it was clogged up.

After replacing the filter I turned on the ignition without starting the engine (i.e. no foot on brake) 3 times. Of course various things whir and buzz when you do that, so I figured the fuel pump runs too.

But when I did start the engine it probably took 3 extra seconds to start.

My advice is to follow the VAG-COM procedure to run the fuel pump(s) and fill the filter chamber back up instead of just turning on ignition. I'll do that next time.

Not sure if this is the exact link for a T3, but certainly gives the idea: Fuel Pump Basic Settings for PD, PPD, and CR TDI Engines - Ross-Tech Wiki