[PoachedEgg]

Hi folks,
Wondering if any braniacs can shine a light on the logic of the shifter interlocks.
2010 T2 that currently requires an old toothbrush, pushing the red solenoid linkage, to shift out of P.
The brake pedal sensor and the corresponding shifter solenoid for it are working - even with my toothbrush I cannot shift out of P (or start the engine) without depressing the brake pedal.
I've searched the forums but nothing clear - what the hell controls the solenoid I'm overriding (on the right hand side of console)
I did see one mention of a problem trans connector under the car somewhere or a trans module fault (please no)

Sure I could just replace the solenoid for 200 CAD and see if that fixes it, I can also get codes read, just trying to understand logic first.

I'll mention this just in case it's related: I have a replacement tiptronic board on order as I have fault F189, PRNDS highlighted and no manual shifting soon as I shift into D.

Clear as mud?
TIA!
Frank

 

[PoachedEgg]

Update... Still need my toothbrush to shift out of P 😅
Figured out the solenoid at fault prevents shifting out of P without ignition, the one on the left prevents shifting out of P without brake pedal depressed.
I tested the solenoid with 12V and it actuates no problem, now also getting code 00470 single wire open circuit on comfort CAN, so at this point trying to track down bad wires / modules on the CAN.
Wish me luck

 

[C-ya]

Good luck!

 

[PoachedEgg]

Holy mackerel guys, after much pain I got it figured out and I'd be very surprised if many T2 owners don't suffer this nasty situation...

SO ATTENTION ALL T2 2008 - 2010 OWNERS!

I'd read about corroded wiring harness joints under the front carpets in T1's causing Christmas trees and various faults. I checked this area in my T2 and it looked good but guess what VW laid a dump into the T2s aswell!
I found 5 weld point connections in the main wiring harness on the passenger side tucked up behind the b-pillar trim (taped up with seatbelt retractor and crash sensor wiring), either completely or soon to be destroyed by some very aggressive corrosion.
Each weld point is 3 or 4 wires that I think are ultrasonically welded together in the factory, then wrapped with a small piece of tape - I'll try and add some photos below showing the remnants of one.
The tiptronic weld point I needed to find was connection B291 on the wiring diagram, splitting power between the F125, F189 and N380.
I did not have time to bell the other weld points to figure what other modules and hence faults they'd create.

Access required removal of: Front pass seat and seat base frame, bluetooth module under seat, upper b-pillar trim, sill trim (one piece front and rear)
Soldered all the weld points and heatshrink, rewrap the harness and bob's your uncle!

Be very interested to hear if other people had the same problem / same issue on the drivers side / know the VW engineer responsible to send abuse.
No other crazy corrosion on the body or elsewhere, for example the seatbelt retractor was rust free and within a couple inches. It's almost as if the tape caused the corrosion!

 

[PoachedEgg]

 

[seafarer28]

Thanks for posting, that's discusting and concerning, my money would be galvanic corrosion between something in the tape and the wire.

From your pic it looks like the individual wires were just resting on the metal wuth no sheathing, was the tape only on top of the soldered section, if so I suspect that there was some moisture generated between the metal on bottom and the plastic sill cover over.
Is there any possibility that moisture or water was brought in via an open window or wet shoes and boots leaving wet spots whilst getting in/out of the vehicle?

TonyB

 

[jeffnhiscars]

That's a great bit of sleuthing so well done !!

 

[PoachedEgg]

Thanks for posting, that's discusting and concerning, my money would be galvanic corrosion between something in the tape and the wire.

From your pic it looks like the individual wires were just resting on the metal wuth no sheathing, was the tape only on top of the soldered section, if so I suspect that there was some moisture generated between the metal on bottom and the plastic sill cover over.
Is there any possibility that moisture or water was brought in via an open window or wet shoes and boots leaving wet spots whilst getting in/out of the vehicle?

TonyB

Hi TonyB, yes definitely moisture involved to cause this level of corrosion but nothing out of the ordinary afaic, they'd be other signs if a previous owner had poured say sulphuric acid in there!

The factory arrangement was wires stripped back 20mm/.75" then ultrasonically welded (kind of looks just like a crimp) wrapped in a small piece of tape you see in the last photo which fully covered the stripped back section, then fully wrapped in the standard wiring harness fabric tape up the start of the b-pilllar as mentioned.

I guess the VW thinking was to get these weld points up away from the floor pan, possibly as a result of the T1 issues, away from carpet moisture - wet shoes/spilt drinks/leaking sunroof or AC drains.

 

[TommiT]

Good post and pix.

 

[Coin-op]

How did you get 12v directly to the solenoid? Having the same issue and don’t want to buy a new one if it still works. Also how did you get to it? I’m using a flat head to flick that switch down in there but can’t find anything online for taking it out of the car

 

[WookieVr6]

How did you get 12v directly to the solenoid? Having the same issue and don’t want to buy a new one if it still works. Also how did you get to it? I’m using a flat head to flick that switch down in there but can’t find anything online for taking it out of the car

He could have ran power and ground to the solenoid from spare battery to see if it start. I am having issue of not getting out of park and have yet to voltage test the solenoid. Did check resistance and it matched the shift lock out solenoid. I have 11ish volts at the Park solenoid when ignition is on. I has similar low voltage at the 5amp fuse in SC52. Battery voltage was at 12.10. Its on a charger now but even with jumper box and battery voltage at 12.45 I still saw upper 11ish volts. Next will be getting test pigtail sorted for last test to see if solenoid is toast.

Touareg is new to me in last 3 months and I have yet got a battery test done. I might have voltage drop on the circuits but would need to isolate the shift board and other devices when load testing to see if there is voltage drop on the solenoid power/ground.

 

[WookieVr6]

He could have ran power and ground to the solenoid from spare battery to see if it start. I am having issue of not getting out of park and have yet to voltage test the solenoid. Did check resistance and it matched the shift lock out solenoid. I have 11ish volts at the Park solenoid when ignition is on. I has similar low voltage at the 5amp fuse in SC52. Battery voltage was at 12.10. Its on a charger now but even with jumper box and battery voltage at 12.45 I still saw upper 11ish volts. Next will be getting test pigtail sorted for last test to see if solenoid is toast.

Touareg is new to me in last 3 months and I have yet got a battery test done. I might have voltage drop on the circuits but would need to isolate the shift board and other devices when load testing to see if there is voltage drop on the solenoid power/ground.

Made test pigtail and my solenoid cycled properly when applying jumper pack power and ground to connector. Truck side connector has 11.43volts with key on. Anyone think that I have further issues with truck wiring or solenoid?

 

[C-ya]

With only 11.43 volts, it is a either a low/bad battery or a wiring issue. Good thinking with the external power source.