First service on my 2004 V8. Sump plug eventually came of with most of the thread with it. Is this a common problem on these cars. Hoping to get a new thread grooved into the sump tmrw. Seems a steel plug in an aluminium thread is not a great idea. Anyone come across this one?
Sump Plug Issue
Dreamcatcher
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First service on my 2004 V8. Sump plug eventually came of with most of the thread with it. Is this a common problem on these cars. Hoping to get a new thread grooved into the sump tmrw. Seems a steel plug in an aluminium thread is not a great idea. Anyone come across this one?
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20,262 Posts
One or two people over the years have posted with this problem but hopefully you can get it sorted.
I may be wrong but the memory banks suggest there might be two sump plugs on the V8?
I may be wrong but the memory banks suggest there might be two sump plugs on the V8?
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Ha.
I had exactly the same thing happen on my V6 at the weekend at my first oil change. Seemed like the PO had managed to cross thread it at the previous change. I was able to get it back in on the last couple of threads but it is obviously dripping a little.
Unfortunately my mechanic wasn't able to rethread it, or cut a new one due to access for his drill, most noteably the front driveshft which he had pegged as several hours to remove. However this is a V6 so the V8 may be different. His book said it was a 15 hour job to remove the bottom of the pan (as he removes most of the front drive system), plus $500 for the bottom of the "diff" as he called it, as there is no nice rectangular oil pan on teh V6. So, $2000 for a "proper" fix.
My plan is to install 1/2" brass extension piece like this, using JB weld and then either the original drain plug, or more likely a quarter turn shutoff valve
![Image]()
![Image]()
I am not 100% sold on the valve but I am worried that just using the OEM plug will lead to problems when I remove it next time and apply turning force to the extension piece.
I was originally just going to install the valve, JB weld it directly to the sump, but using the extension piece gives me options.
An alternative I considered was finding some way to seal the OEM drain hole and using a Mityvac until to do oil changes through the dipstick. Had the oil filter been on the top of the engine like most german cars, I would have gone this way but as I have to get it on ramps and get under it anyway to change the filter, I'm going with the above approach this weekend.
I had exactly the same thing happen on my V6 at the weekend at my first oil change. Seemed like the PO had managed to cross thread it at the previous change. I was able to get it back in on the last couple of threads but it is obviously dripping a little.
Unfortunately my mechanic wasn't able to rethread it, or cut a new one due to access for his drill, most noteably the front driveshft which he had pegged as several hours to remove. However this is a V6 so the V8 may be different. His book said it was a 15 hour job to remove the bottom of the pan (as he removes most of the front drive system), plus $500 for the bottom of the "diff" as he called it, as there is no nice rectangular oil pan on teh V6. So, $2000 for a "proper" fix.
My plan is to install 1/2" brass extension piece like this, using JB weld and then either the original drain plug, or more likely a quarter turn shutoff valve
I am not 100% sold on the valve but I am worried that just using the OEM plug will lead to problems when I remove it next time and apply turning force to the extension piece.
I was originally just going to install the valve, JB weld it directly to the sump, but using the extension piece gives me options.
An alternative I considered was finding some way to seal the OEM drain hole and using a Mityvac until to do oil changes through the dipstick. Had the oil filter been on the top of the engine like most german cars, I would have gone this way but as I have to get it on ramps and get under it anyway to change the filter, I'm going with the above approach this weekend.
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