The search facility is actually quite useful.

Searching for the term "Lightbar" brings up a plethora of pages, but this one is top of the pops and quite appropriate https://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f64/touareg-light-bar-install-176986.html

 

I have a STEDI lightbar mounted to the front of my R Line.
I simply have a numberplate style light bracket.
Works well, and the curved light bar give great range, providing good light to the edges of the road.

 

Where did you get the number plate bracket from please blakey?

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Yes, it is sturdy.

You can get the bracket from several automotive retailers.

 

So Singh said use a fuse jumper on another post, in the fuse box no 15 and or 22. But think it’s different for models as well. I did find a Bluetooth relay that’s us company brought out. Illegal here as not connected to high beam but... they are called Trigger Controllers.

 

@moomouse + blakey

I know that the lights wiring loom colours are different between halogen and Bi-xenon on same model year.
It would help if you show model year and type of lights fitted as any advice here would be vehicle/lights fitted dependant.

Why don't you both add that detail permanently in you profiles?

TonyB

 

So mine is a 2013 7p and I believe it’s the lights that automatically dim. Will update my profile as you suggest.

 

Supercheap autos number plate mount
extra screws
does vibrate so will probably try and tie it back some how

 

Mine has the Halogen headlights the wire colours are below

 

The plug size and the amount of pins on the light harness is not a common feature as it varies between series year but what is common it seems is the white/black stripe wire.
Suggest you test the white/black stripe wire with test light and ensure that it powers up (energises) when high beam is selected and goes off when de-selected.

TonyB

 

Hey Tony, If I may ask a noob question. I have the bi-xenons in my 13 V8 R-Line. When testing this white/black stripe wire, obviously I'd try and puncture the wiring insulation with the point of my test light, but the other end, can I just touch this on the body of the car? I know with the xenons that there is some serious power going to these at some stage of the lighting up, but I really really really don't want to bust anything!

 

Mines a 2012
It has Halogen headlights
The highbeam bulbs are dual filament which act as a DRL as well

 

Mount it to a roof rack. I did that on my 7L worked very well. It was about 1200mm long.

 

Snerlo you don’t happen to be around the 4069 postcode do you? Seen that Touareg around? Reason why I bought the pioneer platform... just phoned a local auto electrician in Indro who said he will do it for 200-250. Will keep you all posted and take pics after.

 

Hey mate. Yeah, that's me. Live in Chapel Hill. Yeah ok. Look forward to seeing if they can get a high beam feed. Cheers. Do you live in the area as well?

 

If anyone with the late model 7P and possibly the new 2020 models finds that the white/black stripe wire does not trigger the high beam activity in their vehicle then you probably need this:

CANM8 CANNECT HIGHBEAM

This interface detects the CanBus signals to allow the relay to activate LED spot lights or light bars.
I have a unit, purchased late last year, available for sale at a discount if anyone is interested in the Classifieds section of the forum.

TonyB

 

To the guys who have used the number bumperplate mount from SCA et al, did you have any problems with the curvature of the front bumper and the straight bracket?

 

hey guys, newbie here in 4127. Good to see a few of you are local, will be looking out for you!

I have just installed an ebay numberplate mount and LED bar - it works OK, I did expect more output, but our other vehicles all have $200+ bars. I guess you shouldn't expect too much when $60 was for all the parts including a wiring harness, which I had to extend for the interior switch.

I used the pax side highbeam wire as trigger. It was ONE OF TWO white/black wire. Now the real fun part was running the wires through the firewall. Fortunately the previous owner had a brake controller installed and so I followed that. It still took 2+ hours and a bit of swearing to wire it up properly, vs 10 min if I didn't have to run it inside. The platebracket is straight, the curvature of the bumper was a little annoying but with enough screws to the bumper it is holding up well.

Mine is a '12 with the bixenon. I also now have a Hayman Reese towbar step with reversing lights, had to add a reverse wire to the trailer plug (original reverse wire in trailer plug was removed for whatever reason). Next is some 275/45/20 (Terra Grappler vs Discoverer HT) and roof racks, as I came from a Multivan and this thing is tiny

edit: in hindsight I would've saved the trouble and got my mobile auto-accessories guy Jonny from AutoAccess, who's charged me $160 to put LED bars on our buses. Good guy.

 

Good job mate.

 

Yeah, well done. Still gotta get my bum into gear and get a lightbar on my rig. 🤦‍♀️

 

Hey All,

I'll be going on an Out Back trip shortly, but struggling to find places to mount a light bar on a 2013 volkswagen Touareg R/line

Thanks
Fab

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Hey All,

I'll be going on an Out Back trip shortly, but struggling to find places to mount a light bar on a 2013 volkswagen Touareg R/line

Thanks
Fab

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Is the light bar connected to the high beams? And does you Touareg have Bi-xenon lights ?

 

I just finished wiring my 2016 TDI for a light bar (BiXenons) (Australia). After much research I used a CANM8 High Beam box that picks up on the CAN High (Orange with green) and CAN Low (Orange with brown) signals from the loom coming from the steering column. You can tap strait into the hi/low wires but I chose the CANM8 Wire Reader that clamps around the wires. Once I'd sorted that the rest was pretty strait forward. Not the cheapest way to go but I have heard too many stories of stuffing the computor trying tap directly into the high beam shutter wire (FYI - white with black stripe going in to the headlight).
Now in the process of mounting the light bar. Grill removal has me stumped.

 

Grill removal has me stumped.

It's a bloody painful job for what should be a straight forward procedure !!!! And surprisingly ... not a lot help out there either.

Took me ages to get it done initially ... but very easy job after having it out a few times now.

Let me know if you don't figure it out as I took some photo's to assist others ....

For Bonus Points .... check the air box intake manifold for sitting water and a blocked drain hole, whilst you have the grill out. Perhaps even look at a water deflection device/construct whilst you're at it !

 

Though I'd share how I mounted my Light Bar on my 2016. I welded up a bracket that also picks up on the structure behind the grill. Solid as a rock!