There's a lot. Get the FSM and follow it.

 

Just pulled it up, can the locking pin get installed without turbo removal? I was hoping that the gear stays in place when the pump comes out. darn, that makes it a bit slower of a process!

Edit: nevermind, definitely have to pull the turbo.

 

Why are you replacing it? What's the back story?

 

P0087 low fuel pressure, then high deviation on one injector. Pulled injector and saw sparkles, so pulled the filter to find a small amount of glitter and pretty dirty filter and fuel (only had about 8k miles on the filter).

Pumped 5 gallons out of the tank to find small amounts of glitter and some debris.

Due to the high deviation I was getting bank A injectors short to ground. Swapped the injectors and that went away and back to P0087

 

Ouch... mileage?

 

207k, with what looks like original pump, yet the injectors might have been done since the return lines had been removed. Doing a full delete and sadly I was just in there doing the cooler seals.

 

What were the injector deviations like?

 

Positive 1.5 at idle and up to 4 to 5 under load on injector #4. All other numbers were in good range. Changed all injectors and now they are within spec. Yes I risk messing up the other injectors yet right now I needed to diagnose.

 

Well before I pulled the turbo I pulled the metering valve and it was perfect. What the heck? Shouldn’t there be some metal in that if the pump is going?

 

Read the manual... it tells you how many of the system components to replace based on where you see crud\flakes\etc.

 

I will look at that. It’s insane that the turbo has to come out, if the pump isn’t really timed why bother? Does the sprocket fall to low if the pump is pulled without the locking pin?

I have everything out but can’t get to the passengers side exhaust bolts to the turbo, real pain!

 

I use a couple 3/8ths extensions, one with a ball end and a swivel.

 

About to put a new HPFP into my 2013 today and wanted to know if there were any proceeders over just installation. Since it's common rail timing doesn't matter, but is there anything that I am overlooking?

Thanks!

I will look at that. It’s insane that the turbo has to come out, if the pump isn’t really timed why bother? Does the sprocket fall to low if the pump is pulled without the locking pin?

I have everything out but can’t get to the passengers side exhaust bolts to the turbo, real pain!

You keep saying this and I keep laughing to myself if you truly believe that accurate. It DOES need timed.

 

Pump is out, yet it wasn't the HPFP as the cam and followers were fine.

The next issue is I have the new pump but the head on the driver's side is incorrectly clocked. I can swap the head from the old pump, yet slightly worried if there are any wear items within the top of the head?

 

You keep saying this and I keep laughing to myself if you truly believe that accurate. It DOES need timed.

Seeing it now, yes there is timing on the pump, although its all keyed so not really a concern unless you jump a tooth on the sprocket.

 

Pump is out, yet it wasn't the HPFP

OMFG... another HPFP loaded into the cannon!

So if I recall correctly, you said there was all sorts of glitter in the system.... where exactly did you find said debris, and did you reference the manual when deciding what you were going to replace based on where this stuff was found?

 

I really thought I saw metal on the top of number 4 injector and that’s what made me inspect the fuel filter to find specs. But now I’m second guessing myself on the injector part as I havnt found any particles in the rest of the fuel system past the filter.

I also pumped 5 gallons directly out of the tank into a bucket and found a small amount of sparkles in that as well.

really frustrating at this point.

 

I will ask for the 3rd and final time.... have you referenced the manual that tells you what to do based on where you see sparkles? (or in your case, imagine seeing them, etc)

 

I have not found that section, even then, at this point it wouldn’t matter as it’s already torn down and have new pump in hand. Where is it in the manual?

 

 

Really wish I could find that yet that section isnt in the online manuals that I have found. Would you be able to screenshot that step 3? Thanks... this has not been a fun road and yes human error has been contributed. I suppose it's all the hype about CP4 failures that made me jump right to it.

I should have just dropped the engine and replaced all the common issues right when I got the Touareg, would have saved me a lot.

 

 

Next time answer the questions being asked to save yourself some headaches.....

 

Thanks! you are correct, yet getting to this point has been a pain just due to the circumstances around it.

I suppose at this point it likely the feed pump that caused the shavings in the filter housing. I will pull that today and inspect it, do you know if the pump should run continuously when activated via VCDS? since when I pump out fuel it only runs in short bursts for about 2-3mins and then shuts off.

 

I'm not sure... how are you activating it?

 

I believe its through output tests

 

There's a time value that's assigned when using output tests... not sure if there's a limit as to how long you can run the test for. You might be able to do it in basic settings if you want to do it until you turn it off, but once again, I'm not sure as I can't recall the last time I played in there....

 

Agree