Club Touareg Forum banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

quattroluvr

· Registered
2013 Treg Sport TDI towing 7,500 lb trailer
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
2013 Treg TDI with CNRB engine (pre-dieselgate-fix designation was CNRA) engine, 140K miles. (always used lubricity fuel additive btw). Malone tune with EGR delete. Now I'm doing the physical delete for EGR, but I need to find the instructions for the egr-delete-parts-kit.

Did EGR delete in the tune. I was suspecting an EGR cooler leak, and wanted to prevent future EGR cooler leak, so did the godawwwfullll lotsa hours of frustrating removal of all that top crap/intake manifold to get to it and now have the whole V exposed. Now i have questions need advice on what else to do while I'm in there. I'd have to shoot myself if I had to do that again if I didn't change a preventive maintenane item(s) I should have!

0.1. Coolant/water pump - DONE new one installed.
0.2. New seals for EGR cooler, tho hoping to throw it away with the physical-delete kit I have.
0.3. New seals for Oil Cooler - have yet to re-install it, wondering if I should put some high extra seal/oil-plan glue on those seals??
Should I put some blue loctite on those bolts too? for extra sure I never want to get to that part of the engine in my lifetime ;-)

1. HPFP - seems a no-brainer to put in a new pump. It's near expected life. I think it's part # 019130755bcKT (ECS Tuning bundles with a new hp fuel line the manual says can't be re-used.
1a. anyone know the part #s for the HP fuel lines?
1b. ECS Tuning wants $1100 for HPFP with the hp lines included. (Stealership wants a f'ing $1,929! ) Other reccomended sources?

2. Turbo New/Rebuild? I have to also R&R the dang turbo to get at the back of the engine to replace the highly obstructed/hidden HPFP. Turbo expected life? Get a new one? source? Refurbished?/good rebuilder source?

3. oil cooler temp sensor? it extracts from front of engine and I don't see any dependencies on access to the exposed 'V" so maybe OK to leave it?

TIA - Really appreciate the advice.

BTW - re getting that dang intake manifold out, be sure to get a LONG T30 screwdriver - or T-handle (harbor freight had) and a L-shaped key too is handy... where a rachet drive T30 is too bulky to fit in ridic hard to get to caps screws on back corners especially. Also I took notes and even wrote with sharpie or grease pencil or notes the various lengths of T30 bolts/screws - so many different lengths to get in the right holes especially the EGR and oil cooler units. Even with the good T30 tools it took me 8-9 hours to get that dang intake out. I'm slow.
 
Don't use any sealer on the gaskets. Clean and dry surfaces is all you need. Loctite is not needed on the bolts either. Just torque them to spec. Re-seal the plate between the oil cooler and block also.

There is a plastic coolant flange just behind the oil cooler. The EGR cooler mates to that flange. I'd suggest you replace it.
 
Don't swap in a stock turbo. Thats boring and lame. Buy something upgraded and have fun.
 
  • Love
Reactions: Golf Wang
1. HPFP - seems a no-brainer to put in a new pump. It's near expected life.
Saw your post on the other forum too, and wonder where you're getting this information? Do you have any links that show the expected lifespan of the HPFP? I know the 2L cp4.1 isn't the most robust, but haven't heard of similar issues on the 3L TDIs.
 
Saw your post on the other forum too, and wonder where you're getting this information? Do you have any links that show the expected lifespan of the HPFP? I know the 2L cp4.1 isn't the most robust, but haven't heard of similar issues on the 3L TDIs.
Agree... there's no "life cycle". They either work or they don't. There is zero in between.
 
Agree... there's no "life cycle". They either work or they don't. There is zero in between.
I've often wondered if the HPFPs might follow a "Poisson distribution" for failure, e.g. the probability of failure is constant per unit time (possibly due to some specific event that occurs), and could be independent of the age of the pump. If so, pump replacement would do nothing to mitigate failure risk.

Arguably, very simple parts and systems do not age, and always follow a Poisson distribution for failure. The process of "aging" both in machines and living systems is for the most part the result of a large complex system with individual parts that don't age, but can fail randomly. Aging is the result of accumulation of a large number of failed non-aging parts.

As a mechanic, I observed that "aging" - decreased functionality and increased chance of failure over time, seems to occur in overly complex systems (think: Mercedes automatic climate control), and does not usually occur in very simple systems (e.g. mechanical climate controls).
 
I've often wondered if the HPFPs might follow a "Poisson distribution" for failure, e.g. the probability of failure is constant per unit time (possibly due to some specific event that occurs), and could be independent of the age of the pump. If so, pump replacement would do nothing to mitigate failure risk.

Arguably, very simple parts and systems do not age, and always follow a Poisson distribution for failure. The process of "aging" both in machines and living systems is for the most part the result of a large complex system with individual parts that don't age, but can fail randomly. Aging is the result of accumulation of a large number of failed non-aging parts.

As a mechanic, I observed that "aging" - decreased functionality and increased chance of failure over time, seems to occur in overly complex systems (think: Mercedes automatic climate control), and does not usually occur in very simple systems (e.g. mechanical climate controls).
I'm not familiar with "Poisson Distribution" but what you're saying is accurate :ROFLMAO: Pumps namely fail when crap fuel (think any diesel in America) are used and the pump loses lubricity and metal on metal occurs. Thats why its critical to be using a lubricity additive on CP4.2 pumps (ala Touareg). 100% agree that replacing a known good pump with an unknown pump is more of a risk than just leaving the factory pump installed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PRY4SNO
I'm not familiar with "Poisson Distribution" but what you're saying is accurate :ROFLMAO: Pumps namely fail when crap fuel (think any diesel in America) are used and the pump loses lubricity and metal on metal occurs
I just don't know if this is true or not... I had planned to replace mine preemptively, but $1000 seems steep for a part that might not actually accomplish anything. My current thinking is that the best thing to do is just add a return line filter, which removes much of the labor involved in recovering from a HPFP failure. You can get a running crate motor with a complete intact fuel system for only about $2500 on eBay...
 
I just don't know if this is true or not... I had planned to replace mine preemptively, but $1000 seems steep for a part that might not actually accomplish anything. My current thinking is that the best thing to do is just add a return line filter, which removes much of the labor involved in recovering from a HPFP failure. You can get a running crate motor with a complete intact fuel system for only about $2500 on eBay...
I'm not sure which of those facts you are questioning as being untrue?

Also, $2500 3.0 TDI? I just did a quick search and most are in the $3500-7k + shipping range.

Most pickups using the 4.2 have disaster prevention kits. They try to stop the HPFP from imploding, but more importantly, they prevent the damage from taking out the entire fuel system and engine if they do.
 
I'm not sure which of those facts you are questioning as being untrue?
I am not sure if my suggestion that failure risk could be independent from age is actually the case.

Also, $2500 3.0 TDI? I just did a quick search and most are in the $3500-7k + shipping range.
For example...

Most pickups using the 4.2 have disaster prevention kits. They try to stop the HPFP from imploding, but more importantly, they prevent the damage from taking out the entire fuel system and engine if they do.
You might remember our discussion about that 3 years ago... I think the consensus was that those kits can't physically fit on the VW engines, especially without deleting the EGR (which is impossible where I live)

Why are you trying to save the cheapest part of the system? :unsure:
I don't care as much about what the parts cost as how much of my time it would take to fix. I also personally hate doing the type of repairs that involve spending an entire weekend laying on my back under the car with fluids dripping on me vs being able to work in the engine bay.
 
My current thinking is that the best thing to do is just add a return line filter
I wish there was something like the 2micron kit available for 2L TDI engines for these vehicles.

-- can they be adapted to use on the 3L TDI? I have one sitting on a shelf so am curious about compatibility...
-- is there an OEM part that would accomplish the same thing, and fit on this platform?
-- is there a CP3 retrofit kit available? Once Andrew's kits became unobtanium, more people opted to upgrade the pump and remove the shrapnel potential from the equation altogether.
 
Dark Side makes a cp3 kit and so does Bobby Singh
 
  • Like
Reactions: PRY4SNO
I don't care as much about what the parts cost as how much of my time it would take to fix. I also personally hate doing the type of repairs that involve spending an entire weekend laying on my back under the car with fluids dripping on me vs being able to work in the engine bay.
The point I was making was that your HPFP and injectors are already junk by the time your return line ziptie saves the shrapnel from contaminating your tank and tank pumps......
 
The point I was making was that your HPFP and injectors are already junk by the time your return line ziptie saves the shrapnel from contaminating your tank and tank pumps......
Yes, the point is to limit the damage to the injectors and hpfp.
 
  • Like
Reactions: alfissimo
Dark Side makes a cp3 kit and so does Bobby Singh
Darkside might make that, but their website is specifically designed to be impossible for casual weekend dorks like me to browse... I would never be able to find or purchase such an item from them, unless I were to quit my job and level up to a full time 24/7/365 Touareg dork.
 
Darkside might make that, but their website is specifically designed to be impossible for casual weekend dorks like me to browse... I would never be able to find or purchase such an item from them, unless I were to quit my job and level up to a full time 24/7/365 Touareg dork.
No lie detected. You're talking about big boy mods here. Comes with the territory.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: SaVAGeSoot
From what I know and many may know. Fuel quality is key to longer life of the HPFP and Injectors along with some lubricity for our fuel in the US.

I think there are 4 culprits for failure.

1. Low quality/bad Diesel #2

2. Water in fuel

3. Using Biodiesel even in lower amounts. Even if VW allows maximum of 7%- Problem with this is who knows what's in the tanks at stations (Usually it's B20 but they state it can be B5 in some cases) and who knows the quality of the Bio. I have learned the hard way before with my 2010 TDI before I found the study below. I believe the Bio to be a big issue in these common rails and I'd avoid it at all costs even if you have had "no issues" using it to this point in your own vehicle.


Volkswagen Group does approve the use of diesel fuel containing up to 7% Biodiesel in all of their diesel vehicles. The change to legislation on 1st April 2010, insists that fuel suppliers must use at least 3.5% Biofuel in diesel production. In accordance with European legislation (Directive 2003/30/EC) the Biofuel content in forecourt fuel will gradually increase over the next few years, to meet the objective to reduce the lifecycle greenhouse gas emissions produced by road transport.

Filling station forecourts supply diesel (to the standard BS EN590), which can now contain up to 7% Biodiesel with at least 93% Fossil fuel. The use of this fuel requires no modifications to the vehicle or changes to the vehicles’ maintenance schedule.
Important: BS EN 590 is approved for vehicles fitted with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF).


4. Improper fuel filter replacement or lack of bleeding and priming the system.



As for the interval to change the HPFP? Unknown. There is no average mileage or criteria that shows a specific time. Personally I tend to think that if you are approaching 100K miles it might be worth it but I would definitely upgrade to the CP3 pump if applicable. That said, my HPFP (CATA) took a dump on me at 130K miles but again I was using too much Bio as lubricity. My fault.

Now, I have made sure to use Diesel #2 from commercial stations as I have a cardlock so I can use commercial stations that test the Diesel and filter it at the pump with 30 micron filters. For those that do not have this luxury, I'd use truck stops or high volume stations that have lots of diesel pumps. Stay away from the Bio or renewable stuff.

Use Stanedyne Lubricity religiously.

If you want to go further. Add a second filter in-line with a water sensor. Likely OEM filter is about 10µ or lower. So a 30µ would be good for pre-filter or 2µ for a secondary.


If you plan to replace the HPFP, go with the CP3. It's less expensive than the one in the vehicle now. No CP3 upgrade for CNRB engines though. :(

 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 30 Posts