Anyone?

 

I had a "Coolant Overheating" message in my MFI ('05 V8).
turned out to bad a bad coolant sensor...and turns out there are two in the V8....the fans would run after it all shut off, etc.....sounds like same issue you have

invoice read:

06A-919-501 tempsender
N-903-168-02 seal
032-121-142 spring
Part # 06A-919-501

then they later replaced thermoswitch
1J0-959-481-A

hope this helps

 

Thanks alot Jim, By any chance do you know where the sensor is? I found the sensor on line for 26$ and I plan on doing the work myself

 

Check Bentley component locations in the DIY,Technical section by Spockcat, Marty

 

beats me....car was all back together when I saw it.

I know one required removing the bumper skin and (I believe) the fender liner...it is buried up front somewhere.

Hopefully, the part numbers and a proper service manual as Marty suggested will help you triangulate the right location and not go crazy/waste time.

It is the only warranty issue I have faced in 44k miles of driving....and befuddled the technicians enough that they replaced one, then replaced the ECU, then got it right on the third attempt and replaced the pair. no issues with it since. knock wood.

good luck

 

Special thanks to Jim and Marty for the quick responses

 

I had this issue on my 04 v6. It required them removing the engine and was covered under the CPO warranty

 

Well I don't have a warranty anymore so if it requires removing the engine my brother and I are going to be very busy people!! This is the wierd thing now, I disconnected the power to the fans after getting home (so the battery wouldn't drain) and the next day I started the car and I let it run for 10 minutes, then I connected both fans again. When I got to work I shut off the car and the fan shut off . I don't know why but now she's back to normal! Temp. is steady and no warnings.

 

Things that make ya go hmmmmmm?

Cya

 

In my case, the CEL was also on. From what the tech told me, the egg has the easiest engine to remove of all the VW's. I wonder if it has a flash memory like the trans. that caused the issue??

 

It may sound wierd, but this is not the first "fix it self" situation. My trans went into safety mode a while back and miraculously it "fixed itself". And imagine, there are people complaining about servicing the Touaregs.... Ha mine can fix itself!!!! No but all BS aside, the last few problems I have had that I thought would be major have cleared up on it's own. Maybe I just have good luck with my trusty ol' 04'

 

A bit pissed off...

Had this problem on my '04 Touareg a while ago (turbo-jet-takeoff-speed fans always when engine is running, long after shutdown fan run) and had it fixed under extended warranty.

12 days after extended warranty has expired, it is back! Really makes me wonder if the job was done well/right last time, but dealers would sooner start singing opera than ever admit that a tech screwed something up.

I dread every time I have to deal with the dealer, but really don't have the time or energy to deal with this myself right now. Hopefully it is only the sensors, not the entire fan assembly.

I guess I'll at least plug in my Mac-Vag and see if it is throwing any codes.

 

I guess I'll at least plug in my Mac-Vag and see if it is throwing any codes.

Well, sure enough, I'm getting some engine codes...

2 Faults Found:
18613 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal
19537 - (Shareware Version. No details)
P3081 - 008 -

It's been very cold lately. -7F in Winter Park CO on Monday when I think the problem started.

I reset the fault, and it did not re-fault immediately, a good sign. We'll see if/when it trips again...

Seems like some VW made some poor engineering decisions here...

THE Algorithm seems to be:

-> On ECT sensor...
--> If you get any out-of-range value...
---> Go into "cool-at-any-cost-turbo-fan-mode".
--->Kill battery
--->Trigger many expensive repairs, both in and out of warranty.
---> DO NOT AUTO-RESET EVER, NO MATTER HOW MANY RUN CYCLES WITHOUT AN OUT OF RANGE VALUE, UNTIL DEALER CLEARS THIS CODE.
​

Now if the sensors didn't seem to throw spurious "out of range values" under very cold conditions, *maybe* this would be tolerable. But it seems like the current algorithm is mostly good for 1) increasing local dealer service revenues, and 2) decreasing customer satisfaction.

How much you want to bet if an unsuspecting customer took the car into the dealer, it would be a minimum $300 "repair"?

 

considering I was just quoted $109 to just hook my car up to their computer and hit "scan"... very likely.

 

I had this happen recently with my recent purchase of a 04 V8. I had wondered if it was something with my water pump, yet the engine stayed at normal after driving. But I realized it was something else when I would drive 3 miles to work in cold weather and the engine would not even warm up. Yet the fan would blow for a good 5 minutes after. Soon it ran down the battery (too short of a drive)

I called the dealership and they noted that they have seen times in which the battery would be the reason for the fans (and they didn't have a real answer as to why). Well, I changed out the battery and it stopped. Then 3 months later it came back. Turned out to be a bad battery, so I swapped another for free and I haven't had the problem since.

 

I had this happen recently with my recent purchase of a 04 V8. I had wondered if it was something with my water pump, yet the engine stayed at normal after driving. But I realized it was something else when I would drive 3 miles to work in cold weather and the engine would not even warm up. Yet the fan would blow for a good 5 minutes after. Soon it ran down the battery (too short of a drive)

I called the dealership and they noted that they have seen times in which the battery would be the reason for the fans (and they didn't have a real answer as to why). Well, I changed out the battery and it stopped. Then 3 months later it came back. Turned out to be a bad battery, so I swapped another for free and I haven't had the problem since.

Suprising just how many problems on these cars can be battery related.
Problem is:
When running the electrical system is at 14.4-14.8 volts.
All the controllers are therefore designed to work at this voltage.
A battery is a 12-12.2 volt device.
When in good condition a battery will take something called 'surface-charge', that is, a charge from the connected electrical system that may be higher than the battery it'self can hold.
(if you drive the car then turn it off and disconnect the battery quickly a voltmeter could show 14volts or more on the battery terminal)

The problem with cars like the treg is the demand for power AFTER the engine is switched off.

They are programmed to run the fans after shut-down, When driving the fan controller is reciving 14+ volts. You shut down and the controller keeps running, after pulling the surface charge off the battery (which will happen in seconds on a older battery) the voltage drops to 12v or so and the fan controller records a fault (+VE Problem etc on a vagcom scan).
It then tries to send this fault to a central controller which says 'I have shut down'
As the fan controller does not know what to do it keeps trying to send the codes and keeps running the fans. Eventually the battery drops below 10v and the controller stops working alltogether.
Because the fans are 'fail-safe' (ie, if the controller fails in-use the fans run to stop you cooking the car) they will continue to run until the battery is dead.

I had a problem when cleaning one the other week, it had been stood up for a few weeks so the battery would ot have been in tip-top charge. Once I opened the doors the interior lights came on. Now, these are ment to turn off after a certain period of time (to prevent a flat battery) but they would not. A scan showed that the lighting controller had insufficant voltage to function correctly! Hence even locking the car would not turn the lights off. Connected a charger and after a off-on cycle everything worked fine!

Sure, many of the problems are sensors/switches etc but 90% of the issues I see at work have a software update available to fix the issue.
Problem is, if you go to the dealer they will plug in the diag machine and that will give them a list of faulty parts.
They will then order (you pay!) the parts, fit them, then on completion of the job connect your car to the server which will update the software.
They are normally reluctant to run a software update unless parts have been changed so you either need a car under warranty or a dealer you get on well with!

 

I replaced my coolant sensors this evening. One behind the engine, the other at the bottom of the radiator. Gone is the bizarre rapid push to 200 I was getting, however the engine light is still on. Looks like I have to have someone clear the codes. I was hoping it would do that itself once the problematic sensors were replaced. Got two sensors, o-rings and clips at the dealer for $74. Both sensors are the same part.

 

Same engine fan problem here. Bought 2 sensors, clips, and o-rings from VW to replace after reading these forums. Got one replaced fine (front of car near fan) but couldn't find the other one. So I took the Treg to CarMax to have it replaced under warranty last week (my 1st mistake... shoulda brought it to VW). They said they replaced one sensor and it was fine. Didn't drive it over the weekend and come Monday morning the fan kept staying on. And now the Check Engine Light came on. So of course I brought it back to CarMax and they replaced both sensors. BUT- the repair guy apparently broke some vacuum valve. The service rep had no clue what the vacuum valve was or what it did... he was just reading the technician's notes.

So I'm posing the question to you guys- what possible vacuum valve could be broken when replacing the temp sensors?

 

I've been having similar problem. Cooling fans would run while engine is running, and for about 7 minutes after shutdown. I would go for a long drive - engine full tempurature. Shut down for 5 minutes ( fans running) and start back up engine temp and oil temp stone cold!!!

I figured must be thermostat - how can the engine cool off in 5 minutes? (i know fans running but thermostat [should] close.

So I changed thermostat and same scenario. WTF???

vag-com the egg and p0118 & p1672. cleared codes and fans shut off and now no problem for day

So likely I could have just cleared the codes and saved myself a day of labour. I will keep an eye on it and see if its not a a bad sensor. I figured the electric coolant pump in combination with fans running must be enough to cool engine in 5 minutes.

 

BTW:

temp sensor G62 is behind engine
G83 is on lower rad hose attached to radiator

on the V8 engine

 

Changing the temperature sensor did the trick for my 2004 V8.

 

Same here on my 05.

 

I'm having this same issue with my cooling fans sticking "on" or turning on and off for awhile after I turn off the car. It's happened to me 3 times since April. In April I was able to get them to turn off by cycling the key a couple times, the fans had been running at least 25 min.... It did it in October while it was at the detail shop, and it ended up killing the battery. I brought it to the dealership after that, it was still under the 4/50k warranty- they of course couldn't duplicate the problem, and when they scanned it no codes came up. Well this past Thursday I drove it 5 miles, turned it off, went inside and came out 20 min later to the fans on "super high" as I call it..... I was able to get them to turn off by starting the touareg, then locked it and waited a few minutes to see if they came back on... they didn't so I went back inside. Only to come out 2.5 hours later to a dead car..... I had to get a jump, and drove it straight to the dealership- they again scanned it, no codes, and they couldn't duplicate the problem. So I made an appointment and left it with them all day yesterday... they can't find anything wrong. I'm now off the original warranty.... I have an extended one, but they can't figure out the issue. Any help on this? I'm beyond frustrated with this issue. Thanks in advance, Amanda
It's a 2008 V8

 

Amanda - No codes showed up on mine either. I have a vagcom and came up with nothing, and neither did my indy shop I take mine too. What he did find, however, was that when he hooked up the computer to the car, it was showing a 30 degree temperature difference from the temp gauge on the dash. Not sure if they can check that, but based on that, we decided to start with changing the two coolant temp sensors, and that seems to have done the trick for mine.

Note: I don't know if yours has two sensors or not, since it is the newer FSI engine.

No issues since then anyway.

Good luck, I know it sucks when you can't find a code. I have a random brake fault code that pops up when my cruise control is on and the Treg downshifts, but there is never anything stored. Only happens about every two months but soooo frustrating.

Lewis

 

But if it was constantly showing a 30 degree difference wouldn't the fans consistently run? I've only had this happen 3 times, and it always seems to be months apart each time..... Def worth checking out though!!!

 

I don't know if it was constant or intermittent but it didn't do it all the time for me either.

 

Does anyone have the part numbers for the temp sensors for my 08 V8? Worst case I can call my dealership.... I'm willing to try anything at this point. I'm getting paranoid to leave the touareg places... afraid I'll come out to a dead battery again!

 

On the supply side of the water cooling system:

P/N 06A 919 501 A - Coolant Temp Sensor, 2 pin, Qty 1.
The sensor is located on the water tube at the back of the cylinder heads.

See POS #11
View attachment 08 Touareg mg1 sg21 ill121_41.pdf

On the return side of the water system:


P/N 06A 919 501 A - Coolant Temp Sensor, 2 pin, Qty 1. (Same P/N as the one above)
This sensor is located on the "Water Hose with Quick Coupling Piece" that goes from the Top of the Radiator to the Water pump.

See POS #4.
View attachment 08 Touareg mg1 sg21 ill121-44.pdf