[SaVAGeSoot]

My question was, and still is, did you put the meter on the harness at the TCM connector when you checked the solenoids? Or just on the solenoid itself? Or just on the tranny casing connector?
If you've made a correlation between the oil temp and these anomalies, have you back-probed the connector to see if you are still getting correct signals and\or readings once things are warmed up?

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

So you have the solenoid itself, with its own pins.

Then you have the case harness.

Then you have the TCM connector

Did you check all those, or only some, etc?

 

[Amikam V10]

My question was, and still is, did you put the meter on the harness at the TCM connector when you checked the solenoids? Or just on the solenoid itself? Or just on the tranny casing connector?
If you've made a correlation between the oil temp and these anomalies, have you back-probed the connector to see if you are still getting correct signals and\or readings once things are warmed up?

Understood. I tested the resistance of the solenoids individually and also checked all the connection from the TCM connector to the end plugs inside the transmission separately. However, I haven't performed a resistance check on the wires when the transmission was hot yet.

 

[bluedoggiant]

How is this going for you? My VB is starting to act up and trying to figure out a game plan

 

[Mexglx]

How is this going for you? My VB is starting to act up and trying to figure out a game plan

Just as good as when I did the repair. The only shift that is sometimes rough is the 1 to 2. All others feel normal. The 1 to 2 can be good and sometimes hard. If I accelerate slow and smoothly like I only want to get to 10mph then it’s shifts fine to 2nd. I have gone off-roading with it and it was great. I have over 10k miles since the repair and it’s overall totally fine.

 

[Amikam V10]

I forgot to provide feedback on the theme earlier, but here’s an update:

I bought the kit and followed the repair instructions exactly as outlined in the manual. Here are some photos of the repair:

The outcome is significantly improved from its previous condition, though not entirely perfect. The banging during upshifts and downshifts, particularly between 5th and 6th gears, is completely resolved. I can now accelerate and decelerate smoothly without issues. The only remaining noticeable problem is a hard downshift from 2nd to 1st when the engine is hot (a hard shift, but no banging). Overall, I’d recommend this repair, as it makes the car much more reliable and drivable. Many thanks to people who offered help here!

 

[bluedoggiant]

I forgot to provide feedback on the theme earlier, but here’s an update:

I bought the kit and followed the repair instructions exactly as outlined in the manual. Here are some photos of the repair:

View attachment 267357 View attachment 267359
View attachment 267358 View attachment 267356
View attachment 267355 View attachment 267354


The outcome is significantly improved from its previous condition, though not entirely perfect. The banging during upshifts and downshifts, particularly between 5th and 6th gears, is completely resolved. I can now accelerate and decelerate smoothly without issues. The only remaining noticeable problem is a hard downshift from 2nd to 1st when the engine is hot (a hard shift, but no banging). Overall, I’d recommend this repair, as it makes the car much more reliable and drivable. Many thanks to people who offered help here!

So to confirm:

You initially started with a refurbished VB which did not help.

Then you individually replaced the solenoids in the VB, which changed nothing.

Then you replaced a myriad of sensors to no avail.

You stopped short of testing wiring for continuity and went ahead with the Transgo kit and it worked out for you.

That's great to hear, I am curious why the refurb VB did not work, I would assume its deeply cleaned but I guess not, otherwise why would a brand new valve body work fine?

About how long did it take for you to complete the Transgo procedures and did you experience any particular difficulty?

 

[Amikam V10]

Yes, you've captured the history well. I’m also uncertain why the refurbished valve body didn’t solve the issue, as it’s a multifaceted problem. My guess is that they replaced some faulty solenoids but assumed the mechanical valves were still functioning correctly.

As noted in the TransGo manual, their design adjusts the flow and re-engineers certain valves to address specific weaknesses.

The process should take around 5-6 hours, including draining the oil, removing the valve body, applying the TransGo modifications, and reassembling. With practice, this time can be reduced. Don't hesitate however to take extra time to double-check everything throughout the process.

One challenge during my initial attempts at removing the valve body was disconnecting the wire plugs from the solenoids. You may need an angled screwdriver to release the plug latch (visible in the photos).

Another tip to reduce the chance of errors while drilling was to mark the modification holes with two different colors of nail polish to avoid accidentally widening the wrong hole. The markings could easily be removed with acetone afterward.

Check YouTube for “Touareg valve body repair” as some colleagues have posted guides online.

 

[razor ray]

I have a 2006 Touareg V6 TDI. The car had a horrible jerky shift from the 5th gear to the 6th on hard accelerations especially while being warm (and occasionally in the other gears). Twice a complete transmission purge did not help it.

Therefore, the cause could have narrowed down to the faulty transmission valves. The reason should be that the heat changes the resistance of worn-out magnetic valves, driving them to malfunction and eventually causing the jerky shift.

I then bought a refurbished valve body and replaced it with mine. I have attached some images below for the sake of comparison.

View attachment 256396


The part number of both parts are the same (Aisin 8860) but they have slight differences, namely the N88 and N89 Solenoids on the replacement one had different wiring plug sizes. Hence, I tested my original N88 and N89 Solenoids (12.5 Ohms each) and used them in the newer valve body. Additionally, the new/refurbished one has two extra safety pressure valves.

Now after replacing it and filling the transmission with quality oil and replacing the filter (I know the process and did it multiple times on another Touareg), by putting the car in gear it moves abruptly forward. Pressing the brake equals shutting the engine as the torque converter can not be disengaged in idle mode.

I know this phenomenon can also be the result of low transmission fluid but not in my case. In addition, there is no fault code in the transmission control module.

Should you have experience with this theme, I appreciate your comments.

 

[razor ray]

What did the Aisin valve body cost? The VW ones quoted at nearly $US4K