Here's a log I have from the past... it's not at your desired cruise conditions, but should give you an indication of expected behavior.

 

Thank you, it's near 100C as I thought all the time. So I will need to change maybe some valve.

 

There's an oil thermostat on the front of the engine that should open once the oil is at 103deg to send it through the oil cooler.... it almost sounds like yours is no longer allowing that to happen.

 

Yup, I thought this is the problem, but I changed it, I wrote it in my first post.
Also before changing the oil cooler thermostat, I changed the coolant regulator which is part # 059121737AM, but the problem was staying, that's why I tried with oil cooler thermostat.
Do you have any other idea what may cause the oil temperature to go that high?

 

Do you have any other idea what may cause the oil temperature to go that high?

Until you provide a log of the various sensors and temps, we don't have anything to evaluate.... if you're just loading up the parts cannon, you don't need my help... load away!

 

Please, let me know which temps exactly you need me to log. I have VCDS.

 

Start with these

  IDE00021   Engine RPM
  IDE00025   Coolant temperature
  IDE00191   Charge air pressure: actual value 
  IDE00192   Coolant temperature at radiator outlet: actual value 
  IDE00194   Coolant temperature at radiator output: specified value 
  IDE00196   Engine oil temperature
  IDE00348   Intake air temperature 
  IDE00380   Coolant fan 1: activation 
  IDE02229   Exhaust gas temperature sensor 1
  IDE03582   Temperature sensor for engine temperature management 
  IDE07724   Coolant temperature at engine outlet: calculated

 

Hello,

Here are the logs: VCDS Logs - Google Drive
In the beginning and in the end of the files, there is a bit of accelerating and decelerating.

LOG-01 is while the car wasn't fully warm up. It's on 2000 RPM cruise control at 8th gear, which is near 130 km/h on the instrument cluster.

LOG-02 is the returning, again on the highway with cruising 2000-2200RPM which is 130-140km/h.
In LOG-02 on line 148 you can see the coolant temperature has dropped to 75C, which I think is because of OIL temperature too high and trying to cool it.

Also the other thing which I notice is that when the car is cold. The coolant reaches 70C and stays there, until the OIL temperature reaches near 90C then the coolant temperature goes to 90C. You can see this in the beginning of LOG-01. Maybe it's normal.

LOG-03 is in city driving with a lot of traffic.
The temperatures of the car while staying on idle are normalizing and the oil temperature is dropping near 100-105C.

The temperature outside was near 20C.

My bad, but I forgot to turn the AC off, that's why the coolant fan will always be at some %, I guess.

Thanks for your help!

 

I'm surprised to see your fan stays idle, especially with A/C on.... I'd look into that... maybe run output tests on the fan, etc.
I'm almost certain mine ramps up as soon as I turn A/C on.... I'll look to see if I have any reading on file showing this.
The oil temp is the only one that keeps climbing, so to me it's almost like the oil thermostat isn't functioning and it's bypassing the oil cooler as a result.

 

Here you go. I found a log I had on file from when I had to replace an ECT a few years ago. I've shown the same MVBs and timeline on both my graph and your graph.
Here's mine from cold start in similar conditions (probably hotter ambient temps if I recall correctly)

Here's yours, formatted in a similar way


Notice how your Engine Management is very unstable compared to mine? Your fan is also basically dead, which would make sense based on the erratic reading of the aforementioned sensor..... so now, I'm suspecting you have a flaky G694 ECT and\or connection to it.

Can I safely assume that your coolant system is intact, and that you haven't had it opened or flushed or anything like that recently, which may have induced air pockets, etc.?

 

3 months ago I changed the chains, the coolant, all the leaking seals around the oil cooler, also coolant actuator and etc.
But the problem with the oil temperature was there and before this. So after all this servicing the oil temperature is still continue to climbing every time I put the engine in more than 1600-1700 RPM. Lately like a month ago, I changed the oil cooler thermostat - no change in oil temp.
I guess the radiator fan is not working in higher %, because the coolant is in optimal range - near 90C and the ECU is not coded to run it higher, because of oil temperature?
About the engine management, is it possible the signal to be unstable, because it is sending the signal between some seconds/impulses and waiting to see if the temperature is corrected or not. And in your example you are under 100C.
Maybe I need to create a new log starting from cold start up?
I guess no air pockets. I've been driving the car for near 4000km since the coolant change. For me the coolant temperature is okay, until the oil temp rises too much and the ECU tries to compensate for the higher oil temp with lowering the coolant temp?
I can run the fan test, after a few hours. Is there something else you want me to look at?
Thank you!

 

Like I said earlier, right now, I'm suspecting a bad G694 sensor.
Why would the coolant in the engine block where that sensor resides fluctuate +/- 10deg C constantly every ~10s or so?

 

Okay, let's assume G694 is bad.
I can't find much info on the net about this sensor. Except the image I did attach. But can't fully understand how it works.
How does it affect the oil temperature, because I can see the temperature of this sensor is between 90-110, but the oil temperature keeps rising. Does it control any valve or something which is blocking the oil from getting cooled?
What do you think I should do, buy a new one G694?

 

I don't know exactly how it works, or how the ECU uses its signal to calculate and determine things.
I'm simply suggesting that there's no way your block coolant temp fluctuates that much that quickly, repeatedly as per what the sensor is reporting.
It would be good to log these same sensors from cold to see if anything else jumps out at you.... but based on what I've seen, that's what I would replace if it was my vehicle.
When mine failed (same sensor), only my coolant temp gage on the cluster would "overheat".... the rest of the system\temps were fine, and everything worked except the cluster gauge went crazy.... based on that experience, I suspect that the ECU uses some combination of the signals it seems from all these sensors and based on that decides what to display on the cluster, what to tell the fan to do, what to activate in terms of shutoff valves, etc.

It's a fairly cheap part, and you don't even have to drain your coolant to replace it.... there will be minimal coolant loss if you do it quickly.

If you want to troubleshoot some more, I'd suggest looking at live data or logging the coolant shutoff valve (N489) activation (pg16 of that same document you're looking at). Theoretically, that could be isolating the block and keeping your oil hot in the bottom.

 

Which one is exactly N489? Is it the one showed in this video and I can see I can run output test on it?
I forgot to mention, but no fault codes in the engine channel in VCDS.

 

Yes... that one.. should be behind your oil filter and there will be a vacuum line that runs over to the actual coolant valve to "control it"....

 

Hi again,
I made some more logs from cold to warm.
Log #740648
Could you please take a look, I couldn't format it well, but there are some things which bothers me.
Take a look how the coolant going up to 80C but then dropping and staying at 70C until the oil reaches 93C. Because of radiator output specified value? Why?
The engine temperature management sensor looks good until the moment with this drop of the coolant temp.
I put Coolant shut-off valve-Bit 0 in the log, but it didn't change it's value at all. Staying 3 all the time.
I made a test of N489 from output tests and it's giving impulses on every 5s or something like this.

When the car is idling, the oil temperature is dropping line - 1506

If I drive at lower 1300-1500 RPM the oil temperature is staying near 110C.

On your log everything is linear, you don't have this drop of coolant and waiting of OIL to get some temperature to keep warming the coolant.
My car is FL, so I guess it might be something with EURO6 emissions. Because the software is after dieselgate. Do you think it is possible this behavior of oil temperature to be normal?

 

My car is FL, so I guess it might be something with EURO6 emissions.

So I'm not really sure how that would change things, but I believe I recall another user trying to sort out his overheating issue a while back, and I believe he was also seeing something similar, but I can't recall all the details. I believe it was @kenwood246 that I was also trying to help diagnose a weird temp issue. Maybe he will chime in, if not, search his discussions and you should be able to find it. Maybe it will help.

 

It was actually another user that joined the discussion late which I was thinking of.... here, I just looked it up

2013 v6 tdi engine temperature question.

Hello all. I have question about my engine 3.0tdi crca 245hp temperature gague. Last night i was driving home about 100km trip ,and the engine temperature started to climb to aroud 95C. After 30/40 seconds back to 90C. After another 10 15 km i see it again to rise about 95/97C and when back to...

www.clubtouareg.com

Maybe @FlyBelka will also come around and give some input, as it sounds like he's seen similar behavior in his controller.

 

I'm mentioning euro 6, because I read on some Russian forums that for the touareg fl it was normal the temperature to jump up and down, but I don't see how this is normal? Especially the oil temperature to stay at 125C when cruising at 2000rpm. I hope the guys which you mentioned to have some solution about this problem.

Here a document is attached from VW that it's normal, but they are talking about coolant and not oil temperature.
And the problem is related to instrument cluster temperature jumping. Mine is staying all the time at 90C

https://www.drive2.ru/l/647272325862921352/

 

Yes it was me.
My car was overheating because my coolant regulating valve 059121737am was deffective.
On my old logs i can see only my coolant temp going close to 120C but my oil temp stay around 90C.
My oil termostat is original at the moment.

 

Yup, that's not my case. For the initial service I did also change 059121737am.
I changed the oil thermostat with OEM one, but nothing changed.

For me this is really serious problem with oil temp going > 120C in normal driving.

Please, if you have any idea what can cause so high oil temperature, just share your opinion.

 

@oveRLuckEd
You need to test\validate that your coolant valve is functioning. If it's not operating, it wouldn't allow coolant to flow through the oil cooler so it would make sense that oil temp would continue to climb.

 

@SaVAGeSoot, can you give me some instructions how I can do this? Should I remove intake manifold or it can be done via VCDS?
Shouldn't this cause any other malfunctioning or coolant temperature issues?

 

In the last log you posted, your shut off valve is always the same. Look at the available MBVs to see if there are any more that you can monitor. I'm not sure if there are any that will give you move info, so you may need to check it's operation physically.

 

I had the problem with high oil temperature and before changing the coolant valve, we are talking about this part 059121737am, right?
The new one is on less than 3-4000 kms.

 

I will suggest to disconnect the vacuum from this valve. This valve controls the coolant shut off valve. If the vacuum is disconnected the valve shoud be ,open and the car will be over coling.
Or at least you will be shure that the valve is working and it's not staying closed.

Then check again the oil temps. with the vacuum disconnected.

When you disconnected the vacuum lines, plug the both houses with something and go for a drive.