The plugs are not quite in line.

It's what's called a narrow V6 with zig-zag cylinders in one block and with just one cylinder head.

See:

www.vwtuning.co/vw-vr6-engine-problems/

 

Ah, I see. Thanks for the quick answer. My head was stuck in the 60's/70's with wider and different designs. I plan on digging into the plug change once I learn which plugs and coils to buy and which to avoid.

 

Welcome! VR means V-Motor Reihenmotor. V is like you remember, but the Reihen means straight (inline). So it is an inline V motor. (Another version is "Verkurzt Reihenmotor 6", or "shortened straight 6".) As you have seen, a V block with a single head.

Good luck with your endeavors in maintaining it. I like to do as much of my own work as possible, too. A VCDS from Ross Tech is your friend if you plan to keep the Treg for a while and you like knowing what is going on, even if you don't do all the work. $200 well spent.

 

29er
The narrow angle V6 is a compromise between 90 deg V and straight. It is actually 10 deg offset. The spark plugs also are offset.
I would only use Bosch, NGK platinum spark plugs. ILZKR7A.
The hex on the spark plug is a 16mm. Make sure you use a thin wall swivel deep spark plug socket. Having a special tool T10118 to unclip the coil pack connector makes life easy. You can pull the coil packs off by hand but a special tool makes life easier again. Can’t remember what the tool number is but it has 2 hooks on the bottom and a handle on top to pull the packs off.
All doable if you are handy with klanky stuff!

 

X2 on VCDS from Ross Tech.

The cheap Chinese rip-off copies are best avoided..

 

Welcome! Please feel free to share some pics?

 

Hello and welcome to the forums.
As I have changed the plugs and coils on my '11 myself I can give a few tips.
1- Use OEM coils. Check around for the cheapest price.
2- Make sure you use the correct spark plugs. Again check around for the best price.
3- Get the tool to pull the coils. It just makes it sooo much easier.
4- Use the correct size socket with a rubber insert in it for the spark plugs and affix
it permanently to a long extension so it doesn't stay on the spark plug when you're done
torquing it to spec and go to pull it off.
5- Watch multiple videos (YouTube and such) on how to remove the connector from the
coils correctly. Nothing sucks more than breaking 1 or more of the release tabs.
Once you know how to correctly, it's easy.

Other than the above tips it's pretty easy and can be done in ~1 hour.

 

Thanks for the info. I will certainly get my hands on the right tools before I jump in. This will be the first time I've changed plugs on an engine with individual ignition coils so it's a new chapter. Here's a shot of the engine bay after I detailed it a few days ago. It's a 2014 and it's just about to hit 100k so I thought I'd treat it to a good cleaning. The car belongs to my wife and it's a daily driver. We've also towed our 5,000 lb camper with it several times and it performed well. It won't be towing anymore, though now that I bought a pickup.

 

Clean engine. Shame you bought a pickup to tow only 5k lbs

 

Well the truck is a diesel and gets 13-14 mpg while towing while the VW would get 8-9. I also wanted to reduce wear & tear on the VW because she loves it to death and wants to keep it forever.

 

Wow that isn't right at all unless you are climbing up the Rocky Mountains or something